mange181 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 I had a pc system laying around. Its old but good. The Brand is Creative. Its 5.1 but ill use it as 2.1. The sub will be inside the cab but direct on the house floor to prevent vibration. Not 100% sure were to put the controlpanel. At the shelf most likely far back. A visible mounted controlpanel would most likely not look so good. I think most systems will do because you stand next to the speakers and the stereo placement is optimal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Not 100% sure were to put the controlpanel. At the shelf most likely far back. A visible mounted controlpanel would most likely not look so good. Is there a reason you would need to ever mess with the control panel? Couldn't you just set it to a general level/default and leave it in the cab and never touch it? I suppose if you need access to it for some reason you could hide it in a coin door or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Is there a reason you would need to ever mess with the control panel? Couldn't you just set it to a general level/default and leave it in the cab and never touch it? I suppose if you need access to it for some reason you could hide it in a coin door or something. If the the power plug is disconnected i need to select the source. Otherwise it could be hidden inside. I might use a ups to solve that. Same issue with the monitor kindaSkickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 If the the power plug is disconnected i need to select the source. Otherwise it could be hidden inside. I might use a ups to solve that. Same issue with the monitor kinda Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Hmmm... That will probably drive you insane after awhile. I'd probably recommend changing to something that you don't have to babysit every time you want to turn it on. Your monitor requires you to physically press a button to work when it powers on too? It doesn't simply stay on the last used source or auto detect the signal? One benefit of a cab is that you flip it on and once it boots up it works. Just like a real arcade machine. That's it. No fiddling or fussing. At least, that's how it should be. I have mine running through a smart strip and wired my PC power-on input on the motherboard directly to a normal arcade pushbutton hidden on top of the cab. I press that button which turns on the PC, once the PC is on the smart strip powers on everything else attached so next my Marquee turns on, then monitor, then sound sub/speaker system etc... If I press my power button again it shuts each thing down. No separate PSU's needed. No crazy wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Drebin Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 Did you buy the buttons yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 Did you buy the buttons yet?Yes. Got them right here. Will be ok for my first buildt.Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Drebin Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 I bought the same set and couldn't get windows to recognize the encoder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 9, 2015 Author Share Posted November 9, 2015 I bought the same set and couldn't get windows to recognize the encoder.That sucks. I run win7 and its recognised as generic usb device. Works out of the box. If they wont give you a new set i would buy a new encoder or take apart a old keyboard. Solder eatch button to a key. The led light might need some more investigation Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Drebin Posted November 9, 2015 Share Posted November 9, 2015 All good! I went with the ipac and the generic USB device is collecting dust! excuse to start another project! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitoken Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 I bought the same set and couldn't get windows to recognize the encoder. you have bought from same ebay china? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Drebin Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Not sure. It was from china and looked like that set. Buttons only lit when pressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Not sure. It was from china and looked like that set. Buttons only lit when pressed.Most likely the same. You can switch yellow and black in the pcb side plint on eatch button to make them lit all thetime.http://1drv.ms/1kHtDof Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitoken Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I am planning to build arcade from china and will use the buttons they provide, if I don't like will buy another high quality sets with spinner , etc. For 2 Player build I-pac 2 is enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 I am planning to build arcade from china and will use the buttons they provide, if I don't like will buy another high quality sets with spinner , etc. For 2 Player build I-pac 2 is enough?As i understand mine is not ipac. Not quite sure of what that is actually. The controller card for the buttons? Anyway the ones i bought i good enough for me and will probebly do just good for anyone. But of course its not best quality so you might need to go over the connections. One button was flickering. But otherwise its all good and good respone in games. My only issue is hyperspin. There is som lag when using the stick to select games. With keybord its perfekt. There might be some setting to fix that. But bringing down animations in hs made it mutch better. Still investigating. Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I am planning to build arcade from china and will use the buttons they provide, if I don't like will buy another high quality sets with spinner , etc. For 2 Player build I-pac 2 is enough? If the iPac 2 has enough connections to wire up all the joysticks and buttons you need then it is enough. If you want more buttons than it handles (or want LED/RGB buttons) then get a bigger one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Last night i got the acrylic glas front fitted. http://1drv.ms/1RPGsYt Some might dislike acrylic glass but im happy with the results. (The protective later is still on) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitoken Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 As i understand mine is not ipac. Not quite sure of what that is actually. The controller card for the buttons? Anyway the ones i bought i good enough for me and will probebly do just good for anyone. But of course its not best quality so you might need to go over the connections. One button was flickering. But otherwise its all good and good respone in games. My only issue is hyperspin. There is som lag when using the stick to select games. With keybord its perfekt. There might be some setting to fix that. But bringing down animations in hs made it mutch better. Still investigating. Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Good luck broTapatalk を使用して私の A0001 から送信 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shitoken Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Yes I was planning some rgb LEDs, tracker and spinner, side buttons for pinball. Do you mean ipac2 cannot handle rgb leds? Which will be worth buying and not costly? Tapatalk を使用して私の A0001 から送信 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Side buttons for pinball can be daisy chained off of 4 other buttons so you don't need dedicated iPac inputs for those. Here's what it says: The I-PAC2 has 32 inputs. They are all programmable and are marked as 2 joysticks, 8 buttons each, plus coin1, coin2, start1, start2 and Mame control keys. Any inputs can be assigned as a shift key to access an alternate code set. This board also has a connector which can be configured to plug our trackball and spinner into, or for our console interfaces. So if that's all you need you should be set. However if you're planning on LED (especially RGB) buttons the iPac2 won't power or control them. You'll also need an iPac LED controller. If you want RGB it needs a lot of channels because RGB's use 3 channels each. Personally I think it makes way more sense not to get an iPac2 and separate LED board (and separate wiring etc...) and instead get the better iPac Ultimate which can do all of it with a single device. I'm going to replace my current iPac with the iPac ultimate rather than just add the LED control board to what I already have. All that info is on their site and in the instructions/details they have posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Last night i got the acrylic glas front fitted. http://1drv.ms/1RPGsYt Some might dislike acrylic glass but im happy with the results. (The protective later is still on) Looks like you decided not to go with a tint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Im looking into different tint layers to apply on the acrylic glas. Think its a must to create that 'floating screen effect' Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Ah... never occurred to me to put a tint on it like a car. My glass has the tint cooked in. Some people put their monitor right up against the outer glass (or acrylic) screen. Sometimes they paint a bezel border right onto the glass/acrylic. I think it looks much better to have your monitor and bezel sit at least 2-3 inches back from the glass and leave your glass clear (although tinted) so that it all looks like a real arcade machine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 Yes thats what I'm hoping to achieve. Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mange181 Posted November 12, 2015 Author Share Posted November 12, 2015 I got about 10cm between the acrylic glas and the monitor with the black bezel. The acrylic glas will have a grafic bezel. The area between is painted black. Hoping with some tint film only the light from the monitor is visible. Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalzoic Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 I got about 10cm between the acrylic glas and the monitor with the black bezel. The acrylic glas will have a grafic bezel. The area between is painted black. Hoping with some tint film only the light from the monitor is visible. Skickat från min SM-G928F via Tapatalk Sounds like the right idea. I've seen some machines with a slim outer vinyl graphic bezel that looks really good. Do you know what your graphics will be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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