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DeeGor

LEGO Batpin Build Blog (46/19/32)

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I'm glad they worked out for you. I'm very pleased with mine as well. I'm not sure who originally found these, but I always recommend them as a great low cost alternative.

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Thanks for taking the time to document your build. The diagrams and your parts list are a huge help. Its gonna save myself a ton of time!

Edited by skewba98z28

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Thanks for taking the time to document your build. The diagrams and your parts list are a huge help. Its gonna save myself a ton of time!

Cool, I'm glad they're helping somebody. It took me a lot of research to figure out how everything worked. I basically took all the hard work that Maxxsinner and others have contributed on this forum and simplified it, so I could understand it.

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Deegor,

On your resistor board for flashers, what is the black "wire" that you used to tie down your resistors? Is that black wire? Could the black plastic melt? Just want to make sure I don't start a fire :)

Thanks.

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The black wires are there to hold the resistors in place. I wouldn't recommend doing this. I really didn't know what I was doing when I made the board. :D It works, but it's but it's kind of lame.

Simply solder both sides of the resistor to the board and use screw terminals on your breadboard for your flasher wires.

I've checked the heat on the heatsink after playing a few games and it's fine. It might be an issue if you were going to use real CREEs at the full 700mA on for long periods of time, but there is no issues with what I have.

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Nice Job. Can I ask how you did your airflow? Do the small fans pull air in, and the large fans at the back push the air out?

Also, what size sub did you use?

Thanks

BR

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Nice Job. Can I ask how you did your airflow? Do the small fans pull air in, and the large fans at the back push the air out?

Also, what size sub did you use?

Thanks

BR

Exactly, the two fans towards the front bring air into the cabinet and the two large fans in the back pull the heated air out of the cabinet. I also have another large fan for the backbox. I haven't had any heat problems, just static, but that's a whole different issue.

I used a 10" Sub.

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Did you create a master connection diagram for the Ledwiz? I pretty much have the same parts, with the 24V contactors, etc. Can you also share your ledwiz ini file? The PixelMagic's LED-Wiz configuration utility v1.3 online site does not want to save my config. Other people seem to be having the same problem saving. I figure if I copy somebody's layout and get their .ini file, it would work just as well.

Thanks

BR

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You can load up my configuration on pixel's site. It's listed under DeeGor. You can pull up anybody's configuration.

Hopefully Pixel gets his server problems resolved soon. It's really the only site of it's kind that we have, and it's currently broken for new users such as yourself.

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DeeGor,

Do your flasher resistors get real hot? Mine get very hot to where it is too hot to touch. Should I go with 10 watt resistors instead of 5 watt or is it just "normal" for the resistors to get very hot?

Thanks.

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I haven't noticed them getting super hot, but I haven't tried touching them after a long night of playing either. I would check, but the way I positioned my resistors, they're a real pain in the ass to get to unless I pull my TV out. I would definitely position them differently if I were to do it all over again.

I have had a few parties where the pin was being played all night and nothing has caught fire, so I guess that's a good thing.

If you haven't already, try raising them up off the board, this way they get a little airflow underneath.

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Good idea, I will put the board on standoffs, maybe have it in the fan's path. 5 watt resistors should be plenty.

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How does your pc setup handle the tables? I was looking at that exact video card for my playfield and a sandy bridge 3.3ghz i5. I'm going to run a ledwiz full of toys and I would like to us uvp as much as possible without affecting performance.

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I don't think there are any setups out there that can handle both the ledwiz plugin and UVP. Someone please chime in if you think I'm wrong. Even with the beast that I have, UVP brings it to it's knees when running the ledwiz. Take either out of the equation and it runs perfectly. There have been a couple of threads out there where people have put out their theory on why they don't play nicely together. You will have to search for them.

The eventual hope is that Rosve will keep cranking out the B2S tables and we can just forget about UVP all together. Typically I just run UVP on tables that aren't setup for the ledwiz.

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I have UVP and LEDWIZ running on most of my tables on my cab. You are correct, UVP and LEDWIZ affect even the best configs, but there are a few things to do to allow them to play together. I'm going to say YMMV since its very difficult to mirror someone elses hardware/software build even if you THINK you have the same stuff in the cab. Hope you find this helpful.

Chriz started a thread on getting the most out of your cabinet a while back, so if you haven't read suggestions, its helpful info.

I am continually tweaking performance on any tables with micro stutter to get them to stutter free. I have a few that still plague me, but 95 % of them are fine.

I have found the MINIMUM config for best performance is an i5 processor running at 3.3gHZ, SSD and 2GB nVIDIA video card and 1GB nVIDIA for the DMD. I also couldn't get windows 7 to perform like XP PRO SVC pack 3, so I choose XP for my builds. I use 5 flashers but don't use contactors, or shaker, so if this is another hit on the table, I don't have them installed.

Here are a few other things I do:

1) change LampTimer.Interval = 85 or higher depending on the table

2) ensure nothing is running on my cab except required resources

3) alpha ramps are a killer, so to boost performance koadic gave us this tip - change any line with an alpha ramp to .alpha=0 (off) or .alpha=1

example: lbumpOn.alpha = 1:lbumpOn.alpha = 1

4) ALL backglasses are 1280x1024 on my cab. I know the higher res backglasses look nice, but they destroy performance on my cab, so these look fine to me and perform much better than 5-6 megapixel backglasses.

The good news is many of the UVP tables are SS tables without flashers, so they run fine. Its the DMD tables with flashers and alpha ramps that kill performance.

As mentioned Rosve has taken a dozen of these killer tables and added B2S calls/backglasses, so you don't need the UVP version for them.

I don't think there are any setups out there that can handle both the ledwiz plugin and UVP. Someone please chime in if you think I'm wrong. Even with the beast that I have, UVP brings it to it's knees when running the ledwiz. Take either out of the equation and it runs perfectly. There have been a couple of threads out there where people have put out their theory on why they don't play nicely together. You will have to search for them.

The eventual hope is that Rosve will keep cranking out the B2S tables and we can just forget about UVP all together. Typically I just run UVP on tables that aren't setup for the ledwiz.

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More B2S mods to look forward to aftewr the summer. Lord Hiryu has asked me to mod he's tables to B2S.

Rosve, this are great news!!!

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Cool guys thanks for the info. I've pretty much got my setup picked out. I always like to get a for sure yes it works when it comes to video cards. There's way to many variations out there! Looks like I need to hit the search button on these B2S tables. Now if I could just come up with a theme :hmmmm2:

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DeeGor,

I'm getting ready to put the leg holes in my cabinet. Can you measure from your floor to the very top edge (top glass) of you cabinet in both the front and back? I'm guessing your front is about 3 feet from the floor and you back of cabinet is roughly 4 feet from the floor. Thanks.

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Thanks for these measurements, because I ended up using different Stern Black legs which are slightly longer. I really appreciate it. Will be putting in holes hopefully today. Will start a post thread soon of my build. Artwork finalizing this week and then going to print. Having so much fun.

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