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DeeGor

LEGO Batpin Build Blog (46/19/32)

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Really nice build!

I 've seen on 1st page that you were speaking about 24v solenoids. What kind of relay (reference) would I need to use them with a 13volt 8amp lab power supply ?

thank you !

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Really nice build!

I 've seen on 1st page that you were speaking about 24v solenoids. What kind of relay (reference) would I need to use them with a 13volt 8amp lab power supply ?

thank you !

Thanks for the kind words.

I've never seen a 13v power supply before, but you wouldn't need any relays to power them with voltage under 24, as long as the contactors pulled less than 500mA. I've tried powering them on 12v before, and it really wasn't enough. I would suggest buying a 24v power supply for your contactors and knocker.

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thanks !

To be more specific, my power supply is 13.8volt 8amp DC.

I was asking about relays, because you said :

Just be aware that you will have to use a relay for each solenoid as the amperage is too much to run straight from the ledwiz.

117_2397.jpg

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the solenoids are the things on left bottom part of the pic ?

The only thing is that I don't know what kind of relay I'll need for it.

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Ahh, sorry. When I read it I was thinking you said contactors, not solenoids. My bad. I ended up using these micro relays for the solenoids, but to be honest I didn't like them for anything other than slingshot effects. They're pretty loud and there is a little bit of a delay on them. I eventually switched over to just contactors. You can find used ones on eBay for reasonable prices.

You can take a look at all the parts I ordered here on my cabinet's shopping list.

Edited by DeeGor

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Ahh, sorry. When I read it I was thinking you said contactors, not solenoids. My bad. I ended up using these micro relays for the solenoids, but to be honest I didn't like them for anything other than slingshot effects. They're pretty loud and there is a little bit of a delay on them. I eventually switched over to just contactors. You can find used ones on eBay for reasonable prices.

You can take a look at all the parts I ordered here on my cabinet's shopping list.

Can you tell me how do you like your Flashers? You mentioned that you did not use Crees because they are too bright. How did you like the cheaper ebay ones?

Also, I saw the picture of your resistor board for the led's. Were those fuses in series with a single 27 ohm resistor?

Thanks

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The flashers are great and plenty bright. I don't regret going with them at all. Especially at only $5/ea. They don't compare to the light you get with the crees, but I'm not looking to light up the entire house.

Yes, there is a 27ohm resistor for each color going to the flashers.

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By the way, your build is simply amazing!!! I just love it. I can only pray that mine comes out half as good. Thanks so much for all the tips.

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Can you tell me how do you like your Flashers? You mentioned that you did not use Crees because they are too bright. How did you like the cheaper ebay ones?

I ended up going with crees because I did not want to skimp after all the effort. While I can't vouch for how well DeeGor's LEDs work, I can definitely say the crees may well be too bright. While working on mapping tables in ledwiz, I have to cover the crees with cloth to prevent getting a headache.

If I were purchasing again, I would likely take the less expensive route.

-Matt

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Thanks Matt for your recommendations. I will try DeeGor's approach. You guys are awesome to share lessons learned.

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Every time I think I'm done, some other mod drags me back in.

Added some RGB strips to the bottom of the cabinet.

IMG_1133.jpg

IMG_1136.jpg

Ok, this is the last one. I promise... Until next time anyway. :D

Where did you buy the RGB strips that glows under your cabinet? This looks extremely cool.

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post-5133-142870576394_thumb.jpg

Where did you buy the RGB strips that glows under your cabinet? This looks extremely cool.

got mine here..same as his or close to it.....i think he has his wired to wiz..not sure..i just use the remote that comes with it to change colors....usually keep it on blue though

also mattdavis i got the cheap rgbs and they work great!!! got them here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-3W-High-Power-RGB-Led-6-Pins-Full-Color-1W-New-/330700235638?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cff452376

also heatsinks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-1W-Watt-LED-Aluminium-Heatsink-Round-/250863137787?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a689bb3fb

little of this in between heat sink and rgb (at least what i did)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Silver-5-AS5-3-5G-Thermal-Paste-3-5-grams-/400296341087?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item5d33856e5f

ebarlow99

Edited by ebarlow99

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Where did you buy the RGB strips that glows under your cabinet? This looks extremely cool.

I actually didn't buy it. H4ck3r had some left over from his cabinet and gave them to me, but these should be the same.

got mine here..same as his or close to it.....i think he has his wired to wiz..not sure..i just use the remote that comes with it to change colors....usually keep it on blue though

Yes, I do have it connected to the ledwiz. I ended up using some cheap micro relays that I had left over when I was originally going to use the all-electronics pull type solenoids, but they just don't switch fast enough when selecting colors that aren't always on full intensity. Maxx and Chriz have recommended some opto 22 relays instead, but I have not gotten around to installing them yet as I REALLY don't want to pull apart my cabinet again. :D I'm just having too much fun playing it. So for now, I just have it setup to use blue all the time.

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DeeGor,

I was curious if you were happy with the performance of your knocker? Does it sound good and everything switches properly?

Want to mimic your schematic in mine with your same micro relay (do you still recommend this approach)?

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The wiring for the knocker is fine. The only thing I would change is the placement of the knocker. I currently have mine hitting up against the front of the cabinet next to the coin door and it's fairly loud, but it sounds a _little_ off because the coin door rattles as well. From what I've heard, real knockers are placed in the backbox. If I were to do it again, I would probably have it strike against the side of the cabinet rather than the front like I originally did.

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DeeGor,

I noticed when I clicked on your link to your schematics, I saw a set of LEDWiz booster schematics too. Did you use this board too in your design? From the pictures, it looks like you did not since you had fuses, relays, hbridge. Is there anything in your design that you did that would warrant the use of the LEDWiz booster instead - like something does not quite perform like you had hoped (like a latency or lag obsereved in your design). Maybe your design has some shortcommigs that the Ledwiz booster would help overcome. I've spent quite a bit of time looking over your design and I really like what you did in your schematics so I was thinking of replicating the way you hooked things up. But, I wanted to double check if you used the booster board or if you think I should use it? I kind of like what you did as I do not need a 5V power supply in addition. Anyhow, I appreciate your view on this.

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I created those diagrams for another member that needed help understanding how to wire up their devices using the booster board. I have not implemented them myself, but if I were to do it all over again, I would. The booster board simplifies everything. There is the extra cost of the boards, but then you eliminate the cost of the fuses, fuse holders, h-bridge and relays.

5v wouldn't be a big problem in my cabinet as I'm already using an older PC PSU for my 12v anyway, I could easily tap into the 5v lines as well.

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I finally finished painting the backbox and got the flashers wired up. The flasher caps that I purchased from pinballlife.com appear to be a little too small for my heat sinks. Luckily the heat sinks were only a ½” thick, so I ended up routing holes deep enough so that I could place the caps over the LEDs.

IMG_0035.jpg

IMG_0038.jpg

IMG_0041.jpg

IMG_0047.jpg

IMG_0051.jpg

Next is painting and mounting the plexi for the backbox, then I think I’ll put in a few blue LEDs right behind the speaker covers. I’m not sure how it’ll look, but we’ll find out tomorrow.

DeeGor,

For your flasher mounting, I like how you recessed the heat sink into the holes on the top of your backbox. Can you tell me what you used to support/mount the heatsink on the inside of the backbox?

Thanks.

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Yeah, I've run them on 12v and they sound fine on my test board. I chose to use 24v since all of my other force feedback is on 24v. I ended up putting an inline switch on the 24v power supply so I can disconnect all the contactors / solenoids / knocker at night when the kids are sleeping.

Edit:

Just re-read your comment. Yes, the relays are rated for 12v on the coil and 10 amps / 125vac on the contacts.

DeeGor,

Another question, can you tell me what inline switch you used for the night mode? I was not able to identify it on the shopping list.

Thanks so much.

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DeeGor,

For your flasher mounting, I like how you recessed the heat sink into the holes on the top of your backbox. Can you tell me what you used to support/mount the heatsink on the inside of the backbox?

Thanks.

The heatsinks are about 1/2" thick, so I routed holes in the top board and used the flasher domes to hold the heatsinks in place. It worked out pretty well.

Another question, can you tell me what inline switch you used for the night mode? I was not able to identify it on the shopping list.

I ended up using an old wall switch I had lying around. You can really use any switch out there as it is rated to be as good or better than the amount of power you are using.

Alternatively, you can use my software based mod. It allows you to toggle all of your force feedback via the hyperpin menu. You can find the mod on the first post of this thread.

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DeeGor,

I built my first flasher last night using your exact same generic LED's off ebay. I must say that I am impressed with them. They are a little tricky to solder, but I'm getting better at it. Once you put the dome over it, I just love the brightness. Any brighter, and they would make you see spots. I'm so glad I went with your recommendations and not the crees. Thanks again.

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