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Driving Cabinet build


Fursphere

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Need some help (opinions) here.

I went ahead and lowered the screen 2" - feels a lot better at this height.

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Then I started working on the speaker panel. My first thought was to put speakers - logitech's or something w/ a sub - up in the top portion where the marquee would normally be and then put a grill over it.

Then I remember I had 4x Pyle 8" speakers. They're either 120w or 240w.

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So I started wondering if they will fit. Turns out there is plenty of room up there for those monsters.

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This is the size of the speakers relative to the speaker panel above the screen.

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Too big? I can either mill out slots for the speakers (like on the old Donkey Kong cabinets) or just cut out a circle and put a traditional grill on them. Or decide they're just too damn big and figure something else out. :P If I do use these, I've got cross-overs and everything to use them with the built in tweeters on the Daytona dashboard (Assuming those are still good - haven't tried them out yet).

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I ended up cutting out the speaker plate for the 7" speakers I have (8" is the flange size after I checked them again). So the holes are about an inch smaller than what you see above. If they turn out looking too big / funny looking / etc after its all said and done, I can either skin them with speaker mesh so you'll never know they're there, or just make a new speaker plate. I made it in a way that it's easy to remove.

Grill cloth / mesh material samples - http://www.speakerworks.com/speaker_grill_cloth_fabric_s/25.htm

What I would do is t-nut the front (facing the seat I guess) for the speaker mount holes. Then paint everything black (or whatever color I end up painting the cabinet. Then use some spray glue (that dries clear) and glue the mesh over the entire front (I don't think there is enough room for the wrap-stretch-staple on the back method). So the entire speaker plate would look like one big grill, and since that's a dark area behind a bright monitor - it'll go unnoticed.

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Mounted the speakers this morning. I went round and round about what to do about it (tee nuts in the front, tee nuts in the back, speakers in the front, speakers in the back.. etc), and this is what I came up with.

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Loose idea is when I pull it apart, use the router to sink everything down to where its flush on that panel. Then make a speaker grill that basically velcros to the front area to hide everything. They've got some weight to them, so I might add a simple aluminum "L" channel to the back for a little extra support. Right now visually they're competing with the monitor for your eye's attention - which will be fixed.

These speakers were in some cabinets my dad built years ago. I've been holding on to them wondering what the heck to do with them, so I'm hoping this working out. :) My MAME cabinet's speaker panel wasn't big enough to mount anything near this size to them.

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Bit more progress today. Got the dash mostly mounted up. I need to re-enforce the supports a little more and add a couple more panels - I was running short on time and some special angle cuts where needed - maybe tomorrow I can finish it up.

I didn't mount the shifter to the same base as the wheel because I'm going to change the angle of it.

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I'm in the market for an amplifier to drive those speakers - any suggestions?

I was looking at this - http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2x75W-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1362453976&sr=8-16&keywords=pyle+stereo+amp

I friend of mine use's the 40w version of that in his MAME cabinet, seems to work pretty good.

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This is such an awesome project. Just finishing my first cabinet and this would be a blast to do next. Are there any good mame racing games? Seems like any of the new ones don't work too great. Just wondering what you are planning on running on this awesome thing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2

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Finished the construction of the dashboard today. Rebuilt the shifter area, and pushed it out (towards the driver) about 3/4" more. Feels much better, and doesn't have the clearance issues underneath anymore. I used Tee nuts to secure the Daytona dashboard - need to build some spacers in the rear so it doesn't get compressed and crack. All four bolts are in now. I used a 1 1/4" hole saw to bore right through the shifter mounting plate to in between the supports to run the cable through to the rear. I had to notch the desh plate there anywhere for the shifter backside, so it just worked out nicely. Next up will be tearing it apart one last time to glue and pin everything together, then wood filler (or bondo) to smooth it all out then painting it. I'm still a bit amazed at just how long this one section has taken so far - and still isn't complete.

Next up will be figuring out the seat - I'm still not happy with the basic design, but I'm not sure how to do it better either.

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I routed out the speaker panel and "sunk" the speakers - they're almost flush with the panel now (almost because if I went any deeper I'd hit the t-nuts... the whole time I was routing it I was waiting to see sparks as it was). I hooked them up to the amp this morning - sound pretty good! I'm debating on if I should "seal" in the speaker compartment, or let it breath. There are arguements both ways for speaker cabinet design.

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I shouldn't have known better. I hooked up the high frequency drivers with the filter's and did some testing. The little tweeters that came with the dash board actually enhanced the sound range of the Polk speakers. Then I went ahead and hooked up one of the big drives and damn, what a difference.

So.. I'll be getting out the hole saw and mounting those up behind the dash today. :)

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I returned the Pyle 2x120watt amp - it sounded fine, but I changed my plans a little. I bought a 4x50watt amp to replace it. Be here in a few days.

If I get time to work on the cabinet this weekend, I'll explain what I'm changing more.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So... Remembering I had a 12v 30amp power supply left over from my R/C car days, I started looking at *real* car audio amplifiers.

I ended up buying a 4-Channel (4x50w real output) Sound Ordnance amp. (that's Crutchfield's "house" brand from what I understand) The amp has full range and high pass filters for the front channel (I'll be using full), then full/high/low filters for the rear (I only want lows for the rear).

Those 2 Pyle 8s are mounted directly under where the seat will be mounted. I haven't boxed anything in yet (mostly due to my "free time" aligning perfectly with the kiddo's "nap times"... oh well ).

But just how it sits now with the rear / lower speakers turned up a little the whole lower cabinet vibrates nicely, and inst loud at all - the low pass filter is awesome. I think when I get the upper and lower speaker boxes finished and sealed there is going to be some significant rumbling going on.

If I end up not getting enough from the 2x8s, I'll just swap them out for a bass shaker. The Sound Ordnance amp also has an output for another amp if I want to get REALLY silly. (I don't think it'll come to that)

I had to buy the amp anyway to drive a bass shaker. (and yes, the cables are a complete mess right now - they'll be pretty later)

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