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Shibbynator

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About Shibbynator

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  • Birthday 04/27/1977

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    http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?18728-Shibbynator-s-Cabinet-Build
  1. Hi Kronic, is it the idea to use all separate? From my side I'm doing this : 1> all flashers on 1 output (I only have 4 and use ledwiz booster board) 2> fans directly on psu so they are always on, no need to get this controlled I think 3> flipper RGB + RGB cab strip on 3 outputs (again on ledwiz booster board) 4> I only control 2 admin buttons, the remaining are directly on psu also to have them always on I also have 5 RGB leds, 8 contacts, gear motor, shaker motor and replay knocker. ledwiz board is full but no need to have a second one... hope it could help a bit...
  2. chris, if you choose to use an relay board like this in between of every RGB cree, do you still need resistors and glass fuses?? As I understand the ledwiz is only charged then with 25mA per output...
  3. Bitbuster, already have some feedback on sizes and test?? Got me some prices in discount but they aren't valid really long...
  4. ok guys another question. I see a lot of pc psu's. Why not using one of these power outs of 12V for feeding ledwiz, ipac and all the other stuff? most still have other psu's for feeding the tools? if this psu is strong enough, you should expect it to be able to be used for everything... has this a reason why it's seperate??
  5. indeed can follow this idea... maybe it's a good idea if there is a solution that somebody has used that is not giving good results that those people give this feedback to prevent other people installing it wrongly?? giving budget ideas on each solution would indeed be helpfull too...
  6. +1 very good idea ;-) help on nudging tools and what could be best to use would be very usefull too...
  7. allright thought something was right, didn't know it was series ;-) problem is, they have ground in commen, so can't put them in series :-( damned :-D
  8. guys, another question on the electric side, testing my basic electric knowledge. I found me a psu that has seperate circuits... 1x +3.5V, 1x +5V, 4x +12V I can use 2x +12V for all in and outputs, leaving me 2x +12V. Now... if I put those in parallel on a terminal, should mean I also have +24V right?? Could be use for all other stuff that is using 24V? just to be sure this is correct ;-)
  9. ok thanks... does anybody know the difference in 'knock' between the 12V and the 24V contactors? or do both give the same sound more or less?? if sound is the same, I will be going for 12V all the way...
  10. OK so my thoughts were still OK, so only on a pinball knocker a 24V would be needed then. Are those available in 12V versions also?
  11. hey guys, maybe this will be a very stupid question, but do you use a 12VDC siemens contacor and switch it with 24VDC just to get a louder knock? no worries for burning it???
  12. Angrim, Vlaams, I'm from Kortrijk hard to find a 30" indeed, I was looking for a 32" too... where did you get that 15,6"? I was thinking to widen the backbox if I can't find a cheap 30". Should not be such a hard deal if you make the cabinet yourself. Even the glass is not a big issue, just search for a local glass worker concering the trim, I'm sure there can be found a solution for that too...
  13. how deep were the slots you made? did you use 18mm MDF? Just one question how do you know the inside width of the TV without the plastic sides? Hi Arngrim, nice to meet you, for sure we can share knowledge. I'll be glad to help on the cabinet side... where did you get your parts? did you buy them new?
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