maxxsinner

If you want to try and get full colour mix on your led strips, there are two options. Either use optocoupler relays, or go for a booster board from Zebulon. They use transitors instead of relay contacts so are able to cope with the pulse wave modulation from the LEDwiz that gives you the different colours.

You have it pretty close there freezy. Relays are used to contol a large amperage with small amperage. Basically it comes down to the LEDwiz can only handle about 500 milliamps per output, so in DeeGor's case, the knocker uses a lot more than the maximum 500 milliamps, so he puts a relay in to control the knocker. The LEDwiz only has to power the small amount of amperage that the relay draws and not the full amperage of the knocker. Same with the LED strips in Chris's case. The LED strips can draw a lot of current... up to 5 amps on some strips! To connect that straight to the LEDwiz would let the magic smoke out of one of those 4 little driver chips on the board. Hope that helps and good luck with your wiring

No need for relays or fuses to protect the LEDwiz as the booster board is doing all the work for your toys, but you will still need your diodes on all of your contactors and knocker. They are only about 7 cents each so no great expense there.

Thats correct freezy. The LEDwiz can complete the circuit for each voltage power supply once its connected to the start point. It depends on the power supply AM. Some seperate the rails so each set of terminals is only good for a certain amount of amps, but most have a common rail in them and the extra screw terminals are there just so you dont have to jam a thousand wires under the one screw. You are correct on how to test the volatge, set your multimeter to DC voltage and red to + black to -. Getting your multimeter probes backwards on the power supply wont do any harm, it will just give you a negative reading.

Not basic questions at all freezy and dont hesistate to ask questions mate. Thats what this thread is all about!. You are correct, the ledwiz connects each colour of the LED to ground as they are switched. The voltage banks on the LEDwiz are for the internal diodes on the LEDwiz drivers to help with protection from relays and coils; which are inductive loads. When the coil turns off, it sends a voltage spike back to the LEDwiz that could do damage. Thats why you will see we put extra diodes on the contactors and knocker coils to protect the LEDwiz even more.

Should not be a problem freezy.

Sorry swaffar I missed your question... Spektre's setup looks quite good. You shouldn't need to use the high powered boards for the contactors (would have to confirm with a amp meter but most are below the LEDwiz 500ma) so that would leave you some spare high power slots to play with. A replay knocker is pretty cheap and love what it adds to a cab personally, but when it comes down to 'what bling do I need?', it's up to the person. If your using solenoids, they may have to be connected to the booster board.

3 and a half minutes. Almost stuffed that one up. Forgot to carry the two......

Hey Swaffar http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIP-5-x-3W-LED-RGB-Chip-Changing-Full-Color-Lamp-Light-6-pin-350mA-D7-/290707195875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43af7fc7e3 These LEDs are nice, but you would be a lot better off if you can find ones that are already soldered to a start chip like this one - Otherwise there is a lot more work involved with buying the star pads and soldering them on.

The ones I use Dazz are Grafoplast - Part No. 102/30U with just A4 paper cut to size. There are labels you can buy for them but you need a special Brady printer,etc.

Let me know when you need details from me and payment Erwin. I understand that the software is not ready for release yet, but would like to get hold of the boards so I can plan the layout of my control gear and have them soldered up ready to go. Will have to ammend the electrical guide with a bit of a 'how-to' for these as well no doubt.

Any updates on this cab gents? That LEDwiz I sent arrived I hope.

Put me down for 1 of the shields and 2 of the driver boards..... No. no... make that 2 of the shields and 6 of the driver boards without parts please mate.

Let me know when you are ready to start taking orders Pixel Are you looking at selling the boards and parts needed, just the boards with a shopping list or the boards fully assembled?

No problem jadflat. Dont hesitate to post any questions you have either on this thread or via PM to me.

Put me down for the LEDwiz H4CK3R. Would love to donate wiring it but would be impractical from the land of OZ.

Russ has sent me some new firmware with the HP logo on it (with BBB's permission of course). Instructions were are breaze to follow and its great to not having a blank DMD when scrolling through tables. Awesome finishing touch Russ!

Anyone else thinking about investing in Cree LED shares? Can see a world LED shortage when this is released to us minions

There is a heap of threads dicussing the XP vs Win7. (Is no one using Vista???) From what I have read, some tables love XP, some love Win7 but there is the 10 - 15 second lag when HP first starts. My Win7 is the same as you descibe Blur, with only a few seconds to exit a table. Let us know if you get Bill Gates to look into this for us ... Or should we just wait to see how it runs on Windows 8??

Let me know when I have to start rewiring my cab sir pixel!

Welcome to HP Russ

Completely shameless and unabashed BUMP!! Any updates of your fine work Pixel and Shifter?

Why do I get the feeling your not telling us something pixel??? If only this was the right size.........

Thats the setup I have thewool and it has not given me any trouble thus far. Concensus is that it needs a faster switching diode but some units have the diodes built in. If you can, solder the diode onto the shaker motor terminals.

Takedown, I have emailed Grovy Game Gear about using different voltages off the LEDwiz banks of outputs to see if its approved. I have used 24 volts on a couple of outputs with 12 volt on the + supply on my cab without a problem but I am reluctant to say its ok without hearing from the tech guys. The + connection on the LEDwiz is to allow a back emf to dissipate through the connected circuit, but as long as you are connecting diodes on your contactor A1 - A2 terminals, I cannot see a problem. Will post the GGG reply when I get it.