maxxsinner

The easiest way that I can see is to put the 24 + onto one of the voltage selection banks on your ledwiz and 12 volts onto the others. Then wire all of your contactors to one ledwiz bank, i.e. bank (1-8) 24 volts, bank (9-16) (17-24) (25-32) all 12 volts. What went faulty to cause the ledwiz to let the magic smoke out?? I am going to add a section in the tutorial soon on how to safely wire multiple power supplies with a common ground point. There seems to be a bit of a concern with wiring the two negatives together but I want to do some testing with the LEDwiz to confirm my theories before I get a hundred emails telling me that their LEDwiz decided to give a pyrotechnics show.

Perfect score from the highly aclaimed gStAv Magazine! I am honnered Gstav. I like to thank my wife for her support and all of my team, well by team I mean Chris...... (Cuts to commercial to stop the rantings of a mad man)

No problems therantis. Appreciate people telling me they are getting info from it.

Was going to suggest to cut the ground out of the vga on one end which I have done before and it solved the problem in my car PC but an isolator would be preferable (and reverseable. lol)

Good call Zebulon. Would be curious to see if having the PSU on and the amp in the sub off causes the fault to disappear.

pm sent bladex

Not sure how you mean bladex as the picture shows every connection except for the connections for PC start button which is just spliced into the wires between the push button on your pc case to your motherboard. If your not using a case and dont have an old one laying around that you can cut the power button wires out of, you can use female pin headers and solder your own wires on then plug that into your motherboard pinout.

Yeah I understand that the PSU is causing the stray signal, but I wanted you to test with another monitor on the VGA cable to see if it is that particular monitor and the PSU causing the fault or is it any monitor. As you said, the other monitor is on a HDMI cable meaning it wont show interference because an analogue signal wont affect a digital one. If its just that monitor, it may need extra grounding, shielding, to be dipped in lead, something. If its not just that monitor, it may be the video card is picking up the stray signal and injecting it into the VGA signal and the video card needs shielding. You may swap out that PSU only to find the new one it causes the same problem again. This is one of the reasons I will be putting my pc into a case. Numiah is spot on. Fault finding is a process of elemination and he has some good suggestions here lettuce. Give our suggestions a go if you can and see if we can pinpoint the cause for you. Maybe as easy as putting a gounded sheet of tin over your pc. Might not be too.... lol

This one has me stumped lettuce. There should be no interference from the PSU as it is so far a way from your monitor and there is no high frequency switching from any of the gear anywhere in your cabinet that I can see. The PSU should not be backfeeding any harmonics into the power board as its pratically isolated from the output side so the only other suggestion I have is to connect another monitor into the video card that is feeding your DMD to see if that is the cause. If the fault appears on another monitor, we know the video card is getting the interference otherwise it must be the DMD monitor. I assume that its not interfering with any other monitors in your pinball?

Everything looks fine there Lettuce. Does the power cable for your power supply, or for anything mains voltage go past the back of your pc where your monitors connect to your motherboard? If the do, try and reroute them away as much as possible and the same behind your DMD monitor.

If you enter each on the forward bias voltages into the LED calcultor, it often ends up with the same value resistor as resistors come in only set sizes. If it comes back with different sizes, by all means using each of the given values for each of the LED's on the chip. The guide just shows the values that I was given for my Cree's.

Can you upload a photo of you connections for your stobe lettuce. My be able to diagnose a little easier for you. As for problem 2, disconnect the negatives just to confirm but I think Numiah is spot on about the PSU causing the interference. Can you give us your make and model of power supply and where it is located in your cabinet?

Bladex your buttons come in 3 parts You simply daisy chain the lights together if you want them on all the time, or for the LEDwiz setup, you daisy chain the 12 to the power supply and then the ground wire, you wire individually back from each light to the output of the LEDwiz. For the micro-switches, a common from the ground on the Ipac dasiy chained between the buttons and wired back to the Ipac individually from the Normally Open (N/O).

Totally safe to remove the relay lettuce. It just removes the coil and switch from the circuit so the LEDwiz will try to turn the relay on, but because the relay is not there nothing will happen. If your lights and everything else does not turn off with the relay out, there is a problem with your wiring to the relay. If the problem still occurs with the relay out, disconnect everything from the power supply, both + and -. turn your power supply check your dmd. If the fault clears, wire one thing back up at a time, i.e ledwiz and nothing else, then add your lights for your push buttons, then your relays and try to run a game each time to see if the dmd shows the fault again. Logically the last thing that you wire up when the fault reoccurs is the cause. You may be able to acertain which circuit is faulty this way. If the dmd shows the fault the with the power supply on and nothing connected, it has to be the power supply. Let me know how you go.

Shouldn't be the cree wiring I would have though as DC voltage doesnt not cause too much interference unless its being switched really fast. But the problem is there all the time I assume? not just when your crees are on? The realy has a soild blue base and the actual relay which has the coil and switch contacts and should be encased in clear plasitic. That part is removable from the base lettuce. If you pull that out and test it (obviously your stobe wont work as the relay is out) as this will test your control wiring for your strobe.

Could have a sick power supply there lettuce. If one of the filter capacitors is dead, you will get bad emf but that is just a guess. As for your Ipac / Ledwiz fault, try removing the realy for the strobe from the base and try it out again. This will leave all of your control circuit in for the strobe without actually running the strobe. If you get the same result, you know its the control side. If not it has to be the strobe side.

Thanks Bill! I am no longer a virgin. I got my first sticky. Yay! Wait that just sounds wrong..... I will take a couple of pics and show the pushbutton connections with a bit more detail bladex when I do my next ammendment. Do you have your pushbuttons yet? If you have one to look at its pretty obvious where the connections go as the microswitch is a totally seperate unit on the push button as compared to the connections for the light. Lol! Ahh that first boot. When you get your clock reset for the first time you never forget it. Worst one I had was from a switchboard and had two phases accross my index finger. It threw my hand back that hard it forced my elbow through the plaster wall behind me. No more working live for this sparky.

It's funny numiah that you can get used to that kind of voltage. Now it only tingles when I pee..............

If your putting them inline with the mains voltage of your strobe lettuce, just make sure you turn the power off at the wall, or disconnect your machine before installing or changing the fuse. Sorry if I am stating the obvious but with the mains voltage side of things, I did 4 years of training to ensure I didn't get hurt and want to ensure no one gets a boot off mains while I am dishing out advice on here. Still get this nervous twitch down my left side after last time...

Looks sweet to me lettuce. protecting the wire and the component with what your doing. the relay is just a switch and offers no protection to the power supply from an electrical fault. Numiah's comments were spot on IMO.

I have seen a length of 2.5 mm wire glow red and burst into flames without the correct fuse. When the wire becomes the fuse.... so not cool.

The wiper motors Dazz, is another great idea from Chris's thread. Having a real motor to produce the sound for some of the mechanical motions in the game. m6Y99Ukn55A Video from Chris's Youtube channel. And my apologies as I did say I was going to get back to you about the contactors. My supplier said that he could not source any US brands as they are totally different to Aus so he couldnt even get me part numbers, although any DC coil types will work from anywhere in the world. Do you know of any electrical wholesale suppliers near where you live? If you can ring them and tell them you want prices on 12 volt DC coil contactors, you might have better luck but I think you will find them to be all around the $60 plus mark. Let us know how you go.

Picked up a couple of wiper motors to play with. One on the left is perfect. Noisy enough to be heard outside the cab, I assume and robust. The other, not so sure yet as its a little quiet for my liking. I have two as my brother and I are both doing cabinets at the same time. Wired all of my Crees up this afternoon. Found some easy push pin connectors to make life a little easier.

Thanks for putting me on his blog. Got some reading to do now.....

Thanks Dazz. After my guide if I didn't get it right I would have been flamed to death! lol. Appreciate you looking over the guide. Sent BBB a message to chuck it up as a sticky as he suggested. Holly shawshank redemption Chris! So its putting a parallel path for 12 volts to the common on the driver chips. How did you work that one out?