maxxsinner

Would an SD shield work to extend the memory limitations Pixel? Not sure if 32 Gig of events would be enough for Chris, but for us average humans......

Love the custom board Pixel and it awesome the time you are putting to this Arduino project. Can think of about 20 Projects I could use one of those custom boards for.....

Nice work with the vid Lucian. Much appreciated. Maybe worth adding the link to your first post?

I believe Noah's VP cabinets use the nanotech digital board for the inputs without a problem. Download the instruction book from the nanotech website and it should have a wiring drawing on there from memory. As for where to buy it, Noah's Virtuapin is the best place to go as he has full support for the unit if purchased off him. Buying from the nanotech website is supposed to be nothing but trouble.

I am not sure how many but I believe it's just a matter of adjusting some of the table script to add support for it. There is a nudge system in the i/o board and the support thread is on the vpforums. You can use the launch button for all tables. The plunger just gives analogue support.

Totally agree with you DeeGor. The occasional stutter is pretty rare and without the contactors and lights flashing like mad, it just wouldn't be the same.

Link is working fine at my end tobebad?? Can anyone else confirm?

2 Ledwiz as well as Arduino control..... the plot thickens.

Lol. Chris wants more in his cab? I swear, your cab Chris must be like the Tardis off Dr Who. More space inside than it's physical dimensions allow. As for the PWM, if I am correct, any digital output can be used as PWM if coded correctly? SecrectsofArduinoPWM And you missed one con. It would mean that I would have to rewire my entire cab...... Actually stick that one in the pro's. Stick certain divorce in the cons.

This is the opto that Chris has used in his cab for his strobe leds http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/184260/HALBLEITERRELAIS-POK-1275

Got the same PM mameman. Thanks for replying to him. Thomas, as Mameman has said, ask any questions that need clarification on here and we will try and work through it for you. Google translate (worth a shot) - Thomas, wie Mameman gesagt hat, fragen alle Fragen, die geklärt werden müssen hier und wir werden versuchen und durch sie für Sie arbeiten

The rating for a relay normally has something like 12 VDC Coil and 5A 230AC for the contacts, depending on the model. If you want, post the make and model of your relay and I can confirm but 24 volts on the poles should be fine DeeGor.

if the relay coil is rated at 24 volts, it wont work well with only 12 volts across the coil. Best option would be just to grab a 12 volt relay and as you said, wire the 24v items that you want switched via the relay through the other poles. Just to clarify, the LEDwiz is swtiching the ground or negative and not the 12v.

My bad. Will adjust in the morning. Thanks for the proof read Chris

Version 1.07 done.

Darkfall has given some great advice there, but I always love to throw my two bobs worth in. Noob questions are wanted and welcome. Glad my guide has helped The way I have described to use fuses is to protect control components in the event of a device failure. One of the guys on here had a contactor fail and short circuit. Practically destroyed his LEDwiz and personally, I think they are too expensive to replace compared to a 20 cent fuse so a 500 milliamp fuses on each LEDwiz output is recommended. Other than that, you can fuse a much or as little as you like. I have a couple of larger fuses protecting my power supply. Basically any 12 volt dc relay will do the job, but make sure you put a diode reverse across the coil as shown in the guide or again, it will eventually kill your LEDwiz and a fuse will not protect it from this. The LEDwiz has a maximum output of 500 milliamps per channel, so anything that is rated over that 500 milliamps must have a relay to control it, or again, one dead LEDwiz. (bit of a pattern here ) Totally personal preference. Have a look at some of the builds on here a pick which one suits you the best. Dont hesistate to hit me either on here or via PM for any other questions. More than happy to help.

No problems for the reminder. Just gald I caught you in time before you had started soldering As for the blinder, you are correct. That way when the relay pulls in, each white led has still got it's own resistor to limit the current.

If your using your ledwiz to drive the Crees, you need to daisy chain the 12 volt or + side as the led wiz switches the negative.

Wiring the LED's in parrallel would work fine. This site will help you work out the resistor size the you need - LED Calculator series/parallel Often the calculator will recommend a small resistor for each LED rather than one large one. My only concern would be the speed of switching the relay needed to act as a stobe. An opto-coupler may be your better option. The MC-E RGBW Crees that you are using for your backbox are rated at 700 mA. You can drive them at what ever amperage you like (but stick to 350 mA or above) and use this calculator to work out what resistor you need - Single LED Calculator I used a 22 ohm resistor to limit mine to 450 mA but you could go lower mA and leave some head room for your low amperage RGB's, depending on what amperage your refering to. i.e. Crees - 400mA Small RGB - 30mA Total - 430mA Obviously driving the Crees at a lower mA will mean they are less bright. The low amperage RGB's will also need thier own current limiting resistor. Or if you want to do damage to your eyes, drive the Crees and low amp RGB's via a relay or opto and power the Cree's to thier full 700mA capacity. RGB suntan....

Thanks for this Lucian. Where I got my graphix printed charged about an extra $50 to ship it to Victoria, Australia and were sill competitive with prices locally so it may be worthing looking into. The bigest problem with a lot of the local printers I found, did not offer the expertise and knowledge that your offering here. Could you post suggestions on how to prepare our graphics properly for you. i.e. allowance for bleed, if overlap is required between the sidepanel and coin door (as discussed on another thread), and anything else you can think of . It would be appreciated.

The ledwiz is a PC controlled output unit so it is basically a low power set of relays, all controlled by your PC. The Ipac is a keyboard encoder and is basically an input unit so you need both to do the job. The ledwiz controls the Red Green Blue LEDs and the Ipac accepts the flipper button press and sends it to the PC. Hope that helps.

Gwrabbit is spot on there arngrim. There is no specific requirement for the terminals, it just makes things a lot easier to connect everything up and neater in the end. There is nothing stopping you from wiring straight from your ledwiz terminal, to a fuse, then to the contactor without using a terminal strip at all. Its up to you. If you need help as you build with the electrical side of things, feel free to PM me with questions or post here and I will do my best to guide you through.

The amperage rating of your power supplies is the maximum output like how much water can flow through a tap. Thats why your local water resivour doesnt end up in your sink when you turn the tap on. The load you connect will determine the amount of amperage used from the power supply. i.e. 350 milliamps from each LED, 400 milliamps from each contactor etc. To protect your LEDwiz drivers, its best to put a 500 milliamp fuse inline with each output. That way the maximum amperage that can be pulled through each LEDwiz driver is 500 milliamps. Oh and jump onto the FTP server H4CK3R, under user downloads/maxxsinner there is a copy there. Dont know why it wont load your end. No probs here at all

Glad it helped DeeGor. Always appreciate the feedback.

Having dramas with my hosting service. They were hacked and are having all sorts of dramas. I could open no problems so hopefully it's right again for everyone now.