maxxsinner

That looks awesome Pixel. Soooooooo many outputs ......:drool:

Its a problem with driving an inductive load with a solid state device. From what I have read, some of the Dual H bridges have 'flyback' diodes built in but I could not find anything in the data sheet from the ones we are getting from Wolfsoft to say they had the diodes. Worse thing is the more I read about it, the more its saying we should be using a fast recovery diode like a IN5416 rather than a IN4007....

Yeah I am afraid you should have a diode on the shaker Numiah. The dual H bridge is would be getting hit with the back voltage spike from the motor when it shuts down. The LEDwiz is protected by the Dual H but the Dual H is not protected from the motor. I cannot find anything inbuit on the schematic for the DFRobot Dual H board that protects it so an external one would be needed. :afraid:

The 4005's should be fine. You wont need one on the reply knocker as it should driven by the LEDwiz via a relay.

I personally wouldn't like to use the PSU connected to my PC for my toys. Some of the toys we use and Numiah pointed out can have some large current draw which would put a lot of strain on the PSU 12 volt rail, let alone some inductive loads that may give high voltage spikes back to the PSU and the rest of your PC. But if you have a spare ATX power supply that you would like to use - here is the link on how to go about it.

Can purchase this yourself Xagesz from most computer stores.

Problem with nuding tools is that there is so many differnt types - mercury switch, plumb bob switch, Mot-tion board, Inverted gamepad...... etc I have not tried a lot of these options so I certainly would not be able to say which was best. That is up to the individual, rather than my unproven opinion. In the end I decided to put in the plumb bob and merc switch wiring details, as the gamepad idea needs to have Gstav's threads read to understand how it works and config and the Mot-ion board is supported over at VPF, so I wouldn't want to step on Noahs toes. I can probably add the links to the gamepad and Mot-ion threads if you think they may help?

Cheers neohusky. Appreciate the feedback (Went to the little creatures brewery in July WA.... messy lad that day!) Will take your comments on board and work it into the next upgrade.

Lmao. VB = battery acid. Hangover in a can. More the Jame Squire ales for me. A mothers love bottled for all to enjoy

Good pick up DeeGor! I remember looking for an updated pic from Chris's new cab and must have got sidetracked... or drunk which happens a bit Thanks mate. Will track down the updated image and add it back in.

Pixel is right. But you have actually stated in your question why it wont become 24 volts. When you wire any same voltage DC in Parallel, it will have the sum of both amperage available i.e. 2 x 10 amp rails in parallel will have 20 amp output. When you wire any DC voltage in series , it will have the sum of thier volatges on thier output. i.e. Picture tells a better story here - Now while this works great with batteries, I dont think it will work with an ATX power supply.

Well my first day back at work and I was a busy boy. I took up Pixels advice and have started a blog so the link on the first post now takes you there. Dont expect it to be anywhere near as extensive as Pixels but I will see if I can drag some feedback out of the people that use the guide.

Great to hear Pixel. Sounds like things are getting close to a release version for all us salivating minions.

I am going to check my house for secrect cameras cause I was only tinkering with a web page for it on the weekend Pixel! Wasn't think about a blogger site, but after checking out yours again, you have certainl planted the seed.

One step ahead guru of the pinball Got that link just below the relay pic on the parts list page. Was going to copy your extensive list and paste it in the guide but figured I better try and keep it electrical based.

Updated guide. http://tinyurl.com/pinballelectrical101 Would appreciate anyone who could post links to places where Ipac, Ledwiz, crees, etc can be purchased to add to the list. Have the obvious places but would like to create a decent list for the electronic side of our machines.

Pinball knockers are normally rated to around 50 Volts DC. Driving them at 12 volts will give (from what a lot of people have said) a mild knock. At 24 volts it gives a fairly good knock. I have this in my setup and I am pretty happy with it. Numiah has gone to a 48 volt power supply for his knocker and apprently his neighbours hit the ground screaming "air raid" every time he gets a freed credit. Basically, because the coil is rated at 50 volts, it can be driven any voltage up to 50 but not recommended to go over as stated before.

Brilliant work pixel and shifter. :adore::adore: Love to see you guys did the independent timing for all the different events.

No such thing as a silly question IMO.... I think that you would burn out the coil pretty quick, or at least greatly reduced the life of the contactor doing this. While it might pull the contactor in a little faster (from memory, voltage to coil magnatizing strength is logarithmic not liniar meaning twice the voltage does not equal twice the coil power), I dont believe the sound would be that much different.

Thanks for keeping us updated pixel and great to hear its evolving still.

You will be right with using it for just testing but from memory the -12 rail has a pretty low power rating so was a bit concerned that you were going to use it as a permanent supply.

Wow. Now this is going to test my electrical theory........ 12+ and 12- should be in reference to ground, but before I hooked anything up, I would ensure that there is circuit between then + and - and that the circuit is definitely 24 VDC difference in potential. Would personally recommend a 24 Volt power supply but very curious to see what results you come up with.

Thanks heaps for the in depth reply Erwin. The mind boggles where this could take our cabs!

So I guess the question is..... How many multiplex boards can be hooked up to the Arduino? Have you tried attaching a second one? Keep up the awesome work Pixel! Love where this is going.

Let me know when you are ready to start taking orders Pixel. What is the current output of each transitor?