New Build Widebody 46/32/DMD

Dr. Willy · May 9, 2013

Thought I would start a thread I can update as time goes on. I am starting to gather parts for my build. Figured this would be a good way to keep track of what I have and what I need as well as keep everyone up to date as time elapses.

Right now I am working on a mame machine for a good friend of mine, all while gather hardware and parts for my machine. Wanted to take a quick sec to say thanks to all the guys who have already made threads and builds, as they are helping me learn a ton. I am a super cheap ass and really shop around before I just up and buy stuff to make sure I am getting it at the best price, some so with that said I will be posting prices I pay for every item as a point of reference for others, some of the stuff I buy has rebates attached to it so I will post the price with the rebate factored in.

Here are the specs:

-Cabinet

-Widebody came based on mamemans plans, with a backbox big enough to fit a 32"

-2 Sheets of 5/8" Mdf

-Screens

-46" Samsung Slim Led 46unes6500 - $599.99 New

-32" LG Led LN5300 1080P Tv - $299.99 New

-Vishay orange LEE 128G032B DMD - Picked up used but it was BNIB - $250.00 (SOLD)

-Vishay Plasma DMD - $179

-Computer

-Windows 7 Home - Free, have extra copy

-Intel 3930k 3.2 Processor - 180.00

-Cooler Master Hyper N520 - $25.00

-Intel DX79SR Motherboard - 118.00, also used but BNIB

-SanDisk Ultra Plus 256GB SSD - 160.00

-SeaSonic 850W ATX12V 80 Plus Gold Power Supply - 100.00

-MSI GTX 660 2gb 192-bit DDR5 - $175.00

-8gbs (2gb x 4) Crucial Ballistix Sport Desktop Memory Module 1600 DDR3 - 40.00

-Sound System

-Lanzar Max Pro 4" MCX4 - $26.94

-Lanzar Max Pro 8" MAXP84 - $27.26

-Boss 400W Amp - $40.75

-MISC

-Zebulons complete booster board

-Zebulons Shaker/Gear Motor

-Zebulons Cree Led Light Bar

-LedWiz

-Pindmd2 - $91 shipped (thanks russ!)

-9 Siemens Contractors (bought one extra only using 8) - $122

-Real Pinball Knocker

-2 Led Strobes

-Under cabinet lighting kit

-Custom transformer to power DMD - $46.30

-Corsair 430w Modular power supply (to power the extras) - 30

This is what I have put together so far, I will be updating this from time to time as I find more stuff I want in my machine and start buying more things.

As of right now I don't have a theme for the cab, not sure if its going to get art or just be painted a color. I am awful with photoshop, so must likely it will be just a painted cab unless someone I know helps me with art. Also I know the computer is complete over kill, I started buying the pieces for it today after I found out what processor I was getting. I could either get the 3930k for 180.00 or get a 3770k for 80.00, I said go with the first then you will have a computer that no matter what updates Visual and Future pinball come out with I will be able to run all the tables I want without issue.

Let me know your thoughts/opinons!

kizam33 · May 9, 2013

5/8" mdf? i thought it had to be 3/4"? Sounds like a good start.

punter1 · May 9, 2013

5/8" mdf? i thought it had to be 3/4"? Sounds like a good start.

Just plan in advance how to handle things that expect 3/4 inch depth

I used 1/2" on my side cabinet panels to gain 1/2" width to fit my playfield in a standard cab size (instead of routing). I used 3/4 everywhere else. For me it was just adding 1/4 shims for the flipper button/leaf switch install and not using the standard plastic side channels for the playfield glass

You might have to shim the pinball shooter if you are installing one

Dr. Willy · May 9, 2013

Just plan in advance how to handle things that expect 3/4 inch depth
I used 1/2" on my side cabinet panels to gain 1/2" width to fit my playfield in a standard cab size (instead of routing). I used 3/4 everywhere else. For me it was just adding 1/4 shims for the flipper button/leaf switch install and not using the standard plastic side channels for the playfield glass

You might have to shim the pinball shooter if you are installing one

You know what I didn't think about that, I figure 5/8 would be fine, but didn't think about some things are just made for 3/4 thickness, I was only going to use 5/8 cause I have a sheet of 5/8 mdf in my garage from another project that didn't get used. I guess I will go with 3/4 inch and maybe just use the 5/8 for something else in the future.

thanks for pointing those things out.

scottpe · May 9, 2013

I normally recommend 3/4" MDO or cabinet grade oak or birch plywood. It's significantly lighter than MDF and it will hold screws better. Also much more tolerant of moisture...

Dr. Willy · June 24, 2013

I have just about all my parts, just finishing a couple of mame cabs and then this build will be underway. One question I have for the guys who are running car amplifiers for sound, how are you powering them? Do you think the power supply I have to run the contactors and all the toys will also have enough left in it to power the car amp? The amp only needs 12 volts.

scottpe · June 25, 2013

I think there's likely more headroom left in your computer PS than the one you're using for the toys. The toys alone will draw close to 300w peak, so that doesn't leave much extra room for the amp. Generally you should only load a PS to 70-80% of its rated capacity. Your 850w is way more than is needed for your computer and it appears to be a very efficient PS. I would probably hook your amp to that.

mameman · June 25, 2013

i tend to keep everything off the pc power supply since its connected to a pretty costly bit of equipment. I usually pick up a cheap pc power supply, 350w or greater and simply have that power the car amp. this way its more isolated should the unthinkable happen.

scottpe · June 25, 2013

i tend to keep everything off the pc power supply since its connected to a pretty costly bit of equipment. I usually pick up a cheap pc power supply, 350w or greater and simply have that power the car amp. this way its more isolated should the unthinkable happen.

Or you could do that...

Just know that there are some wiring considerations to be aware of when taking this approach so that the PS actually turns on when everything else does.

mameman · June 25, 2013

Or you could do that...
Just know that there are some wiring considerations to be aware of when taking this approach so that the PS actually turns on when everything else does.

agreed, I always use one of those energy saving strips that turns everything off /on based on sensing a master controller (pc).

Dr. Willy · June 25, 2013

I was thinking of getting one just for the amp, but them that's means I have 3 power supplies in this thing which to me is a lot lol. I will still prolly go this route though as I am better safe then sorry.

Thanks guys

scottpe · June 26, 2013

agreed, I always use one of those energy saving strips that turns everything off /on based on sensing a master controller (pc).

I was referring more to the fact that you typically have to do some jumpering of the PS wiring itself so that it will turn on when power is applied, since in this application there is no motherboard/switch as there would be normally to control the power state of the supply.