c_weiler Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hi there, I am currently building an arcade cabinet, it is running off of a laptop which I am going to fix to the inside. My problem is that I don't want to have to open the cabinet to power on the laptop each time, I have looked throughout the forum however all the instructions have been unable to help me. I have a Toshiba Satellite L500 and once it was taken apart I found the terminal with the 4 connection points. After finding the points I took a small piece of wire and attached both ends to attempt to see what connection turned on the laptop, I'm not sure if that is what I was supposed to do, however there were 4 sets of connections that turned the laptop on. Before soldering onto any of these points, I want to make sure I have the correct set of terminals. My microswitch has C, NO and NC pins on it, and I am also unsure of where I should be connecting the two wires that come from the laptop into in order to make it power on. If anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djvj Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 You want to connect a continuity tester on the wires to figure out which ones close the circuit when the button is held down (the tester will beep). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_weiler Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 So once I do that and determine the two points, which wire goes to the C and which wire goes to NO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connorsdad Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Once you figure out your connections on the laptop side, you should connect to the microswitch as follows: - to the C + to the NO Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 You can also use a 9V battery and your tongue. I made my little brother do this. Was hilarious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_weiler Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Once you figure out your connections on the laptop side, you should connect to the microswitch as follows:- to the C + to the NO Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Thank you very much You can also use a 9V battery and your tongue. I made my little brother do this. Was hilarious. Any other way that doesn't involve a 9V and a tongue? Haha doesn't sounds like a good time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Any other way that doesn't involve a 9V and a tongue? Haha doesn't sounds like a good time Come on I had a great time. Yeah. Use an old flashlight. Where the switch is rip it our and wack in two wires. Touch the wires together the light goes on. Stick it in your switch and play away. Won't hurt anything expect your poor old torch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougan78 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I used a less scientific approach for this. Ground button to case chasis. Take other wire and connect touch to laptop or case button leads. Push arcade button and see if your computer turns off. Once it is off you know which lead you need to attach to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_weiler Posted January 28, 2014 Author Share Posted January 28, 2014 This is the exact part that I has a my power button in my laptop. I noticed that there is a red wire and a black wire leading to the board, would it be as easy as cutting those two wires, lengthening them and soldering them to the arcade button? Or is there something going on in that small board that would prohibit that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mono Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Most probably there is no magic going on. As djvj wrote: You want to connect a continuity tester on the wires to figure out which ones close the circuit when the button is held down (the tester will beep). If it works you can simply solder to the wires - this will make it easier to keep the original notebook on/off button working. Or as written before - solder to the switch contacts - as you like - all you need is to decide for your way to go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connorsdad Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 [ATTACH=CONFIG]37732[/ATTACH]This is the exact part that I has a my power button in my laptop. I noticed that there is a red wire and a black wire leading to the board, would it be as easy as cutting those two wires, lengthening them and soldering them to the arcade button? Or is there something going on in that small board that would prohibit that? If your original power button was connected to those wires, extending them and connecting them to an arcade button will work fine. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_weiler Posted January 29, 2014 Author Share Posted January 29, 2014 If your original power button was connected to those wires, extending them and connecting them to an arcade button will work fine.Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Well the wires lead to the circuit board with the 4 contact points and small black pushbutton in the middle, so cutting, extending and wiring the red to the NO contact, and the black to the C contact, the button should function properly? For example, 1 click to turn on, 6 second hold to turn off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connorsdad Posted January 29, 2014 Share Posted January 29, 2014 Need a better photo tbh, how are/were the wires connected at both ends? I'm sure those 4 points consist of; 2 - 2 + If you connect 1 set it should work. I am an absolute noob re electrics so if anyone else knows otherwise please chime in. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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