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Rebuilt X-Arcade Machine


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My work recruited me to rebuild the X-Arcade MAME cabinet they built. If you ever seen one, they are complete and total junk.

Went from a dell kiosk machine (a prebuilt bucket that cost less than 400) to this:

Monitor: ViewSonic XG2701 27" 144Hz 1ms 1080p FreeSync Gaming Monitor

Processor: Intel Core i5-7500 LGA 1151 7th Gen Core Desktop Processor

Memory: Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 2400 MT/s (PC4-19200) DIMM 288-Pin - BLS2K8G4D240FSB (Gray)

SSD: Intel 512GB M.2 80mm SSD

Tower: NZXT S340 Mid Tower Computer Case, White (CA-S340W-W1)

Power supply: Corsair CX Series 600 Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Non-Modular Power Supply (CP-9020048-US)

OS: Windows 10

The X-Arcade panel was completely gutted and rebuilt:

Joysticks: iL Eurojoystick Green

Pushbuttons (Green and Yellow): Green IL Convex PushbuttonYellow IL Convex Pushbutton

Switches: Cherry Pushbutton Microswitch

PCBs: PS3/PC Zero Delay USB Encoder PCB: American Style Controls

To make sure the PC games work properly with the controls, I used x360ce for certain games, I don't notice any input lag using those drivers, but I may try this to be sure: https://github.com/Stents-/XOutput

This machine makes mincemeat of just about everything. Tekken 7, Street Figher V, and Mortal Kombat X all run at 60FPS. All emulation runs perfectly without stuttering using Freesync with zero screen tearing and no additional input lag.

All cabinet art was done by the professional art team that works in my office.

Here is the finished product:

20840718_10155611338701737_9119545086232637045_n.jpg.8fd84d510d2c27023145f57c9a7d9748.jpg 20841089_10155611338796737_2403952826379996840_n.jpg.50f4d2cf36841e30d14cc7e98a52e9e0.jpg20840774_10155611338816737_292081412552012921_n.jpg.f3a27c5dce928cf27fe2665cd155a70d.jpg20900553_10155611338751737_5134199350436222256_o.jpg.2039c1450c3529c3dcebf3fa743dd495.jpg

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great job,  only way to make those outdated tanksticks usable again.

is by gutting them and installing modern joystick encoders inside them.


 assuming black buttons P1-P2 start

out of curiosity but why didn't  you add a dedicated exit button. (Unless its hidden from view)

I"m assuming you had spare button inputs in the usb boards.

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If you look at the control panel under 'how to use this machine', there are instructions on how to exit current game or reboot if the machine hangs (which is occasionally does, haven't worked out every bug). In this case, you hold P1, and push Coin1.  Holding P2 and pushing Coin 2 reboots.

I do have spare slots in controller, just chose not to go that route. Instead I made this decision as I didn't want any accidental exits. I may work in a development house, but they are total monkeys and will push buttons before reading the instructions. 

There was a traditional P1, P2 button there, but they were beat to crap (x-arcade buttons). I just threw some of the old black ones from the x-arcade unit that were never used and threw them in. I'll order some legit white ones later.

Yeah, the X-Arcade panel is ugly as **sh!t**. The side panel and marquee were there from the original build, but I want this thing to look as sleek as possible. The old problem with the new cover vinyl is that Rec Room Masters said that the many different production companies for X-Arcade tanksticks made each one  a special snowflake... meaning that the vinyl will never be perfect. That is as good as I can get it. I had to take an exact-o blade to it to clean it up. the physical errors do add to the 'this is a beat machine' look of it though, which was the over all effect the original art team had.

They also sent me multiple vinyls. So once this one gets worn down I'll remove all the buttons and apply it so it will be perfect.

In fact the only thing left of the x-arcade tankstick is the pcb and one frankenstein switch I made to reset idle timeout. Direct input controllers cannot send a HID request to the computer being usb, so the games will exit after 20 minutes. Hitting P1 fires both the switch for P1 on the Dinput pcb and the X-arcade keyboard resetting the idle timeout counter. Idle timeout was a requirement being in an office the machine needed to be silent when not in use and exit games so deal with burn in (it can happen to LCD's too).

Overall,  it plays great... and more and more people are giving it spin time now that is done and I'm not working on it.

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Are you having any trouble with Windows 10 and hyperspin?  I got a cheapo HP on ebay that had a fresh install of Windows 10 that I'm about to configure for my next build and I'm worried about windows 10 and its lack of Directx 9 support.

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On 8/21/2017 at 0:56 PM, Snakerake said:

Are you having any trouble with Windows 10 and hyperspin?  I got a cheapo HP on ebay that had a fresh install of Windows 10 that I'm about to configure for my next build and I'm worried about windows 10 and its lack of Directx 9 support.

Not really no. I know Tekken X Street Fighter does not work on Windows 10 at all. Buyer beware.

Hyperspin runs fine as far as I can tell. But then again there is a lot of horsepower in this machine, so it could be masking other issues.

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