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Typefighter01

"New Build" Teaser Pics

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Hey Guys,

Won't go into great detail until I start an official build log, but here is my half complete pin (told Numiah I would throw up some pics after he helped me out). 24" 16;10 backglass, 15" DMD, 40" playfield.

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My Mame cab and my one and only pinball machine, a 1974 Chicago Coin "Cinema", I used it for all of my dimensions. Scored it for $150.00 at an arcade auction in Toronto. Was going to use it for the basis for my build, but I did not have the heart to screw with it. Bought a rubber ring kit, new flippers, cleaned it up and it works perfect. Once I get my side rails and lockdown bar made, I will show some of the build start to finish with hi-rez pics. Thanks to everyone who posted picks of their builds and the guys at Hyperpin with their kickass frontend, gives me endless inspiration......

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It seemed a shame to waste all the LCD's viewable area with just the DMD. Instead of making a paper Hyperpin instruction card, I will do some nice instructions in Inkscape (or some program similar), have a snap shot for each buttons function and just set them all as a desktop slide show. So every ten seconds or so, you would see a different button and it's function and I will also do a couple of slides at the begining and end that tie into my cabs theme (the Hyperpin logo will stay centered where it is for times the DMD is not displayed). Ignore the quality of the images you see on the DMD now, threw them together in IrFanview just for proof of concept.

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Hey DeeGor, checked out "Your Game Room", and I wondered to myself, has anyone ever built a Hyperpin cab first, then built a Mame cab, or is it just the evolution of arcade addiction. A Mame cab is like your first steps LOL....

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I think it's a "Rite of passage." That and I think hyperpin cabinets are a fairly new hobby.

I was a huge gamer when I was a kid. So much that I usually spent more time playing Spy Hunter than going on rides at Disneyland. Building an arcade cabinet was a must for me, and it's something I really wanted to my kids to experience. Arcades these days are a joke. They are full of nothing but redemption machines and driving simulators.

I became a big pinball fan as I got a little older and the pinball tables became more advanced. I had stumbled upon VP a few years back, but playing virtual pinball on the desktop just didn't seem that great. While looking for a new front end for my MAME cabinet I found HyperSpin which ultimately led me to finding HyperPin. Man I was blown away. The cabinets that H4ck3r, Chriz99 and Mameman were pumping out were breathtaking. Add in the force feedback, nudging and the new physics of VP9 and I knew I HAD to have one. I always wanted a pinball machine, but I could never bring myself to purchase one due to the high price tags the good tables have.

While a Hyperpin cabinet will never be as good as a real pinball machine it's good enough, and I get to play tables I've never even seen before. Luckily, the Pinball Hall of Fame isn't too far away if I ever do get the urge to play real tables. :)

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Wow Typefighter, now that is a proper build !

I really love the extra LCD surface you've created to display other things.

Be careful for a performance hit with active backglasses though, those things can be feisty :)

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Thanks guys,

DeeGor, I can only hope my cab is as good as H4ck3r, Chriz99 and Mameman, or anyone here for that matter, but I dout it (have to aim high though, right).

Here is a couple more pics. I built the backbox just like the CC Cinema, It is bolted on, with the power cord running between it and the cab. Cab is built out of white melamine, just like my Mame cab. This being my third arcade cab built out of this stuff, I can say that I am an expert in the art of melamine manipulation. I use it for a few reasons,

1.Hate to paint

2.Graphics go on smooth and perfect.

3.It is extremely rigid (have yet to test it, but I would put it up against MDF any day, (just for initial deflection, not total strength).

4.Perfectly straight, always.

5.Lightweight

6.Did I say I hated to paint.

I use 30" X 72" white melamine "shelving" from home depot. I have compared it to the 4' X 8' sheets of black, and I can tell you, the melamine coating is thicker than the black stuff, maybe because it is designed for more abuse.

I have given the art work some thought, but I will have to revisit it later, keep changing my mind.

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I would use Melamine the next time I build something.

This can be applied to any wood and is easy to handle.

However corners can be tricky, those kept me from using it now with my current build.

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Hey Numiah, doing the corners with melamine can be tricky, and I knew going into this build that the 2 most important corners I would be doing were the front of the cab. Unlike my Mame cabs, I would need to make 2 perfect 45 degree cuts with no chipping.

First thing to do is make sure you do your cuts on a table saw (it is possible to use a Hand held circular saw with a diy fence), next, you need a sharp blade, you don't need a special laminate blade, just make sure the one you are using is sharp. Move your blade down on the table as far as possible, so that it is just making it through the material. After you make the cut, take a sanding block with 320 grit and take the very edge off of your outside cut edge, less than a millimeter, or 1/64 of an inch depending where you grew up (this might seem counter intuitive, but i will explain). There is two reasons for knocking down the very edge of the melamine, firstly, one bump of a drill, hammer, broom handle or anything else within ten meters of the cut edge will make it chip instantly. The second reason, and the most important, is it gives you a little relief for what ever adhesive you are using to ooz out of and sit in (PL Premium in my case). In fact, the only product I can think of off hand that would work is PL. What happens now, is once the PL sets up (overnight), it is able to be basically sculpted with a razor. Take a brand new razor blade and run it down your edge, you will be left with a thin brown line of PL. Take your sanding block and give it a very light sand, PL doesn't sand very well, but it will let you even it out a little. Now grab your best painters tape and run a line of tape as close as you can to each side of the corner, leaving maybe a millimeter of melamine exposed. You are going to paint this corner with actual white melamine paint. Use a little foam roller and do 3 or 4 light coats (don't want to put too much paint on, you want it to blend into the rest of your cab). Once dry, remove tape and enjoy. People would have a hard time on my cab figuring out how I did such nice corners. As an added benefit, the PL will act as a sort of bumper under the paint, absorbing any blows to the corner and holding the melamine and paint in place if it does get hit. Might sound like a lot of work, but it's the only two corners that matter. Will post a closeup later tonight.

Forgot to mention, make sure you clean as much of the PL off as you can and only leave enough in the relief you made so you can sculpt and sand your corner, it's hard to get off.

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I've never had much luck with melamine. It seems like the corners and edges crumble/split on me if I look at it wrong.

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Here are some pics of the finished corner. First pic is front right corner. Second pic is top back right corner of back box. What is nice about the white shelving is every edge is finished, if you take your time, and plan your cuts, you end up having all your edges covered in melamine. Just to clarify, I am not laminating the cab at all, this is white melamine shelving, finished on both sides and all four edges. I included two shots of my Mame CP to show how nice an edge you can achieve with the melamine. I use a combination of "sharp" router bits and a table mounted belt sander for tight radius corners. Lastly there is a full shot of the CC Cinema and my de-cased Samsung.

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Just realized, I keep calling my Chicago Coin Hollywood a Chicago Coin Cinema. Luckily it's not very popular, or I might have been called out. The Cinema was the four player version.

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Just about finished my keyboard hack today, so I thought I would post some pics. I know an I-PAC or LED-Wiz would probably be an easier solution, but I needed to prove to myself that I could do it.

One cool aspect of this hack is that it requires no solder. The printed matrix is embedded in some clear sheet (mylar?) and it is pushed into the connectors. I noticed that the spacing on the keyboards connectors were the same spacing as the pinout on some old IDE cables I had stashed away, so I de-soldered the female connectors off of two old 3.5 inch floppy drives and they slid right in. I secured them with a little snot (a term someone on this forum used to describe hot glue) and them fixed the controller to a scrap piece of MDF. Painted it white and made some acrylic covers to protect. I am going to start wiring tomorrow with the default keys Numiah graciously supplied me (thanks again buddy).

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Also, had to throw the playfield in the cab so that I can start measuring for my side rails and lockdown bar. The TV fits perfect, looks sickkkk:D.

I am really liking the scale of this machine (so is my wife). It is roughly %15 smaller than my CC and will look good beside the MAME cab. Even though I need to remove it later tonight, thought I would show a couple of pics.

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Wife is going to Mexico with 3 girlfriends, it's going to cost her a thousand bucks. I figured it was fair that I could spend a "grand" on myself and she agreed. Hello computer build!!!!!:) Have to start planning now, hopefully will start it on Christmas holidays....

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