Mackdaddi Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Hi all. I've finally finished my "Hyperspin Arcade" bartop cab, after months of working on it whenever i could find the time. I'm really pleased with how it's turned out, and how it looks and plays. Now all that's left is for me to find some time to actually use it Rear Panel with power switch, USB ports, and air filters & grilles for the cooling fans: It's built around a P4 2.8ghz desktop motherboard with 4GB ram and a 160GB SATA drive, with just the onboard graphics and sound. The OS is windows XPsp3, and it's running Hyperspin (hence the marquee) with MAME, NES, SNES, Master system, Megadrive, and N64 emulators. The monitor is a 15" TFT. I could have easily fit a 17" in there, but i wanted to leave some space for a bezel around the outside of the screen, which i think really adds to the retro look of these cabs. I had some help from friends in the early days of figuring out Hyperspin and trying to make it work, but after getting my head around the file structure, xml databases etc, it was just a case of putting a lot of time into it to get it right. It takes a lot of effort, but it's beautiful when it's up and running and properly configured. For my money, it's really unmatched aesthetically by any other frontend that's out there. HS is running as the windows shell, and i've customized the windows bootscreens and shutdown screens etc, which means the cab boots up and shuts down without any sign of windows or explorer. The PC's power button and USB ports have been broken out and mounted on the back panel, so there's pretty much no need to open the cab for servicing or anything like that, just plug in a USB keyboard, mouse, HDD, flash drive, wi-fi dongle or whatever, and you can work from outside the cab Here's a shot of the insides. Space was really tight in this cab. I ended up with less than a half an inch depth to spare in mounting the motherboard, PSU, and fans and getting everything connected. Phew! The back panel has 4 fans. One intake for the CPU, an exhaust to vent the power supply, and 2 exhaust fans mounted behind the grille on the rear panel to keep everything nice and cool. The control panel hardware is 2x Sanwa JLF sticks, modded with octo gates, double springs for extra resistance, and american-style bat tops instead of the usual ball tops those sticks come with. I'm a beat-em-up fan, and those sticks are my favorites in terms of response, so i sprung for hardware that i knew would last the test of time and feel right for my favorite games. On reflection, i could have added a control panel overlay to give the panel a slightly more professional look, but even without it the white CP still looks well, and matches the overall tone of the cab. The buttons are Happ Ultimates with vertical microswitches for a nice strong response and ease of removal for repairs, mods, etc, as well as a couple of Happ Competition pushbuttons for the pinball flippers on the sides. These also double as the "genre" and "favorites" buttons for the frontend. As well as the 1&2P start buttons, i also added a handy 3-in-1 button on the front panel to give me different functions for different emulators without drilling too many holes in the CP for dedicated buttons. This covers lots of functions like escape, back, shutdown, insert coin, pause, console select buttons etc, depending on the emulator that's running at the time and where you are in the menus or the games. A couple of shots of of the underside of the control panel in mid-build: The keyboard encoder is an ultimarc minipac. I've used minipacs and ipacs before, and if you're serious about building good functionality into your panel without too many extra buttons messing up the look of your cab, they're a great choice for ease of wiring and programming and their "shifted keys" function, which lets you build in a second function to each button is really handy for saving space. I've currently set up my 1P Joystick up/down to control the PC's audio volume when the 1P start button is pressed and held, and can easily add new functions such as reset, tab, save slots, dip switches, task manager etc to any of the other buttons if i need to. The shifted keys function was a great way to add volume control without drilling holes for extra knobs etc. There is a master volume knob on the speakers inside the case, but it's much handier to be able to change or mute audio on the fly during games if needed. The marquee: This is the work of my local printers, and the result of my basic skills in Photoshop. It's a print sandwiched between 2 sheets of plexiglass. It hides 2xUSB speakers hacked and mounted and the power strip i used to give the PC it's power supply. There's no built-in lighting in order to save space, which was tight in the cab, and because I'd never use it anyway Behind the Marquee: So there it is. I got loads of useful info and resources from posts on this forum while i was building it, so thanks to everyone here, and to BBB and the HS dev team especially. It wouldn't be the cab it is without all your help. Feedback, comments, etc are welcome. Hope you all like it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Top Job!!! Was that a kit or did you make it yourself? I'm liking the 3way coloured button on the front looks nice and over all an outstanding job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyrusnagisa Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 nice work, looks great. If I ever make another cab, I think it will be a small one like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonnykool Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Wow Looks great. A real pro job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Top Job!!! Was that a kit or did you make it yourself?I'm liking the 3way coloured button on the front looks nice and over all an outstanding job Thanks. The 3 in 1 button is really handy, it saved a lot of unnecessary button clutter on the panel, and fit into one standard 28mm button hole. Heres a link to a better pic of it from the place i bought it from: http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/gremimages/ssparts/SSPB4super.jpg The cab was originally a white PVC flatpack kit, which i had ordered to save building time, but i ended up rebuilding a lot of it from scratch when i got it delivered anyway because it just wasn't strong enough or not suitable for what i wanted. It's about 50% custom now. The blue paintjob is all custom sprayed, the original kit only came in white. nice work, looks great. If I ever make another cab, I think it will be a small one like this. Thanks. Yeah i have to say, I'm happier with this than i was with my last cab. The last one i built was an upright, which i just don't have space for anymore. This one is way more manageable, moveable, etc. It even stores away nicely in a wardrobe or whatever if i need it to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golden_35 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Can you give links to the usb mounts and explain how the psu vent works? Thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Can you give links to the usb mounts and explain how the psu vent works? Thanks!! Yep, no problem. The USB mounts are Neutrik, a well known brand, so they should be available anywhere. I got them online, because i wanted a black finish, but my local electrical components shop stocked them in white as well. I think i paid about twelve dollars (plus delivery) for 3 of them. http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/46-586_NEUTRIK-USB-NAUSB-W-B-Panel-mounting-back-to-back-feedthrough The PSU vent is just an ordinary 80mm PC fan, mounted in front of a 65mm hole drilled in the back of the cab, that's covered with an air filter, mainly for looks. The PSU sits inside the cab, mounted on the base, with it's own internal fan pointing towards the back panel. The 80mm fan sits an inch or two behind that, lined up with it, and just pulls in the hot air coming from the PSU fan and blows it directly out the hole. If you wanted to be really serious about making sure no heat at all escaped back into the cab you could run trunking, duct taping, or air vent tubing (get it at any plumbing supplies store) directly from the PSU to the fan, or the hole, and seal up all the gaps. For me that would have been overkill, as there are also two other fans mounted at the top of the back panel, behind the grille, to pull any excess heat out of the cab, and it all works fine and shows no problems with overheating so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newer Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Top Job!!!Was that a kit or did you make it yourself? I'm liking the 3way coloured button on the front looks nice and over all an outstanding job The Bartop its not selfmade ist a Kit ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 The Bartop its not selfmade ist a Kit ..... Yes he said that, but the kit was made from foam board, which I always thought would not be strong enough for a cab, as it should be able to take a knock or too lol. So he re-made a lot of the panels from mdf for a sturdier build, so it was a kit to start with but ended up as a hybrid of the two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Yes he said that, but the kit was made from foam board, which I always thought would not be strong enough for a cab....so he re-made a lot of the panels from mdf for a sturdier build, so it was a kit to start with but ended up as a hybrid of the two. Yes exactly, it's about 50-50 kit/original now. Most of the mods or replacements i made were to strengthen the build or to change the space inside and make it more suitable for mounting a PC, USB ports, fans, grilles, etc. I also had to redesign the inside with some steel bracing to give the CP the support it was going to need when a bunch of my drunken mates are swinging out of it during a games night. The PVC panels alone just wouldn't have cut it. The sides, top, bottom, and control panel are pretty much the only original parts now, but had i known that, i would have just made those myself too, as it really wasn't cost effective to just use half of the original kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Ahhhhh, games nite, the ultimate test:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Ahhhhh, games nite, the ultimate test:) Exactly, but it's built to stand up to it. All the hardware is top quality stuff that can take the knocks, the sticks and the 3x2 buttons are all double sprung to take the maximum amount of hammering, and all the switch hardware is the best quality stuff rated for millions of button presses, so it should all be fine. Any suggestions as to what games should be on the favorites for games night for a bunch of lads who all remember the 90's arcade scene very fondly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie_jones Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Mack, really nice cab mate, is that 12mm chrome t moulding around the edge, I've been looking for that everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Exactly, but it's built to stand up to it. All the hardware is top quality stuff that can take the knocks, the sticks and the 3x2 buttons are all double sprung to take the maximum amount of hammering, and all the switch hardware is the best quality stuff rated for millions of button presses, so it should all be fine.Any suggestions as to what games should be on the favorites for games night for a bunch of lads who all remember the 90's arcade scene very fondly? Well my top five in a favorites MAME list for a games nite would be: 1. Track and Field. 2. Hyper Sports 3. Street Fighter 3 (Any in series) 4. Marvel vs Capcom 5. Point Blank (If you got lightguns) That would be me:) but im sure you will get a lot of other top games for your list now, guys get them posted lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Richie, The silver edging is not t-mold, just some chrome edging that is supplied with the kit. Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Mack, really nice cab mate, is that 12mm chrome t moulding around the edge, I've been looking for that everywhere. You can get it here richie http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12MM-1-2-CM-CHROME-car-trim-moulding-strip-2m-/180840919908?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a1af57364 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Mack, really nice cab mate, is that 12mm chrome t moulding around the edge, I've been looking for that everywhere Richie, The silver edging is not t-mold, just some chrome edging that is supplied with the kit Thanks:top: Yeah, this. It's 12mm but it's the cheaper stick on foam backed stuff, rather than the actual proper t-shaped molding that you mount into a slot. It wasn't worth a curse, i had to re stick practically every part of it with superglue or epoxy-resin. it just wouldn't hold properly on the corners. I would steer clear of it if you can help it. Have you tried t-molding.com? They're very good, and carry a large range. Alternatively, i see you're in flintshire, if that's flintshire in the UK, try gremlin solutions. They carry loads of good stuff for machine building, if andy hasn't got it, he'd probably be able to point you in the right direction for it at least. Well my top five in a favorites MAME list for a games nite would be... I have a load of street fighters on there but i mainly play Street fighter 3 third strike, Street fighter alpha 2&3, Hyper fighting, and Super SF2 Turbo. I mess with MVC a bit already, but i'll check out the rest of the ones you mentioned. Thanks:top: Others i know from experience are popular on games nights are puzzle bobble, bomberman, and on the consoles Mario Kart and Mario Kart 64, and Tetris head to head. Also seeing who can get farthest on 3 credits on metal slug or ghosts & goblins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie_jones Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Thanks for the link, I'm afraid 12mm chrome t moulding is hard to come buy, you stick on stuff is the closet I've seen, t moulding.com don't stock silver only white. Just some advice mate, you can get some nice angled aluminium strips from b&q would look nice above and below the marquee instead off the PVC..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 They do have silver/chrome t-moulding, not sure if they have it in the size you need. http://www.t-molding.com/store/home.php?cat=11 I actually have plenty of metal marquee retainers I could spray if I wanted to but I kind of like the white. I was going for blue and white to match the colours of the cab and control panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goggy Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 I have the same bartop kit, and that silver moulding really is poo! I had to do the same as you and re-stick 99% of it back on. I'm nearly done with mine. Just need to print the marquee, unfortunately, my other half was whinging about how much i'd spent so far, so i might have to wait until payday for that, oh well.. The kids love it though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mrbell1984 Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 These things are getting really popular on here. Good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 I have the same bartop kit...I'm nearly done with mine. Just need to print the marquee, unfortunately, my other half was whinging about how much i'd spent so far... I'd be interested to hear what you thought of the build quality on the kit. I was disappointed with it generally. I really thought it wasn't sturdy enough, and some of the finishing work was quite imprecise. How have you found working with it? On your marquee, I photoshopped 3 copies of my artwork onto an A2 poster sized jpeg image, took it to a local small printing place, and paid them a tenner for a single poster print copy of it. No major expense needed, and it looks fine. I'm sure you could get that past your missus :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goggy Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 I was quite impressed with my kit, all the bits seemed to fit together quite well, there we're a couple of holes slightly out, but thats a I've also found the material to be quite sturdy, i've been carrying it around the house with no problems, it seems quite heavy and it copes well with the weight of it. I've put a couple photos for you to have a look at, it's not quite finished, but i'm getting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackdaddi Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share Posted March 16, 2012 I was quite impressed with my kit, all the bits seemed to fit together quite well, there we're a couple of holes slightly out... Hmm, maybe you got a better one than mine. I found a lot of the holes were off, the finish on some of the edges was quite rough, which was a problem for painting it, the marquee retainer was cut too short, and the control panel was too weak and needed extra support. I also didn't like using fixing blocks, but I think I'm a bit of a perfectionist. Your cab is looking well btw, post more pics when it's all done. Would like to see how it turns out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotty7499 Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 I was quite impressed with my kit, all the bits seemed to fit together quite well, there we're a couple of holes slightly out, but thats aI've also found the material to be quite sturdy, i've been carrying it around the house with no problems, it seems quite heavy and it copes well with the weight of it. I've put a couple photos for you to have a look at, it's not quite finished, but i'm getting there. [ATTACH]10996[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]10994[/ATTACH] Goggy, That is looking sweet!! A very nice clean look to it, Also with the quality of this kit a lot are talking about you could have made it out of 18mm mdf for around £20, the hardest part would be to form the sides, but once that is done the rest would just take shape, Thats what I have found whilst building bartops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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