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Heroes Pinball


tchiacch

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Ok, wanted to start the Heroes pinball build thread after months of researching on this board. My friend and I are both building the exact same cab at the same time, so we are tag teaming. He is the expert wood worker and I am the PC guy. We are currently building a standard Williams wide body with 40 inch LED samsung as playfield. We are using a 28" 16:10 LCD for the backglass and a 15 Inch LCD for the DMD display. Shout out to the following forum super stars :Big thanks to mameman, Badboy Bill, Bill55, ebarlow99, and the ever awesome DeeGor (huge help). We are finally underway with wood working (both boxes have all the wood cut and base cabinets are assembled). My buddy has come up with a very sturdy notched corner (with glue) using MDF. It is a very solid cabinet frame for sure. PC software coming along nicely (Visual and Future are up and running in hyperpin on I5 using XP). Artwork is being done by Josh White (major good guy! Incredible artist). Printing is going to be completed by Brad at Bowman this week :)

Electronics are very similar to DeeGor's Lego Batman build (but we decided to use Zebulon's boards which is slightly different). We have also opted for lighting in back of playfield area instead of the top of backbox. We are going to use contactors, gear motor, plunger, knocker, shaker, nudging.

We are in mockup mode now, with the base cabs assembled. Backbox is cut and in assembly/planning. We just finished deciding on leg and playfield height (put the TV in and tested some tables). We are simply having the most fun ever doing this project. My friend and I love Spiderman, Ironman, Batman, Terminator, Tron etc. so we came up with the idea to make a collage using these characters (with formal permission to use Hyperpin logo). Check out the artwork we have been working hard with Josh back and forth on (coin door front decal added):

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Josh is a great artist, very flexible and he can really run with your general ideas. If you don't like something, just tell him and he makes it right. Highly recommend him (dfwArcade on this forum)

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Here are a few shots of some of our cabinet frame as being built. We have notched edges for extra strength at the corners, worked perfectly (this is a little unique to our design). But our cabinet is based of Mameman's famous widebody plans (major thanks to him as this works perfect with the widebody kit from virtuapin.net).

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Nice job.

The artwork looks great. I just noticed that Stern has done tables for all of your characters. You guys should try and get Gary Stern to sign your cabs.

Keep up the good work. I'm looking forward to seeing them completed.

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Love the TV. We do not have to de-case it (great for warranty if needed). Plunger is going to be perfect. This Samsung TV has like a perfect indention area for the plunger to go under. Our TV model is the Samsung UN40EH5000 40-Inch 1080p 60Hz LED HDTV (Black). We have plans for the room in the back of the playfield to put LED's. Going to be awesome. Lockbar and coindoor both fit like a glove.

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Ok, here is a drawing of the front button placement that we worked out. Plunger and launch button will be on the right side. They were not needed to be shown for the artwork planning. Front art is being finished this weekend. Decals should be going print next week.

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We came up with a killer idea for a power on switch that will go on the front of our cab (bottom right). We are using a Vandal momentary 16 mm switch DOT with White LED in the middle. This will connect up to the motherboard of the PC to turn it on (using Belkin smart strip to sense PC power to turn everything else on). The cool thing is we found a Tron disc that the switch will fit into perfectly. Here are some shots to show you.

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  • 3 weeks later...
We have talked about this and our only concern was if we would have issues with the decal eventually peeling around the countersink hole over time. I do agree that countersink makes it look better.

Commercial table buttons are countersunk, no peeling issues. Vinyl is tough stuff. Your call of course! :)

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We have talked about this and our only concern was if we would have issues with the decal eventually peeling around the countersink hole over time. I do agree that countersink makes it look better.

If the graphic is cut properly around the hole flush, there should be no issue with it peeling. However, if any part of the vinyl is not cut flush with the hole, then there might be an issue with it peeling. I could only see it happening if someone stuck there finger in there to hit the button and hit the edge sticking up over and over again, would definitely take a long time for it to lift though.

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Ok, finished resistor boards (two of them) and (made ten flashers - DeeGor style :)) - since we are building two cabs at same time. Tested connectivity and resistance with meter for both boards. Lit up every flasher to make sure they all work correctly. Getting better at soldering.

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