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maxxsinner

Funglo pedestal style cab

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Found some spare time again this weekend so got stuck into my cabinet again.

Got the coin door from Suzo-Happ installed (apologies for the crap shots. Camera must have been zoomed or something???)

2013-06-30%252016.30.27.jpg

Also got the PC on slides in the base of the cabinet. Chopped up an Lian Li T60 for all the bits I needed and screw it onto a bit of leftover shelf (see below) then a couple of draw slides for easy access to all connections.

2013-06-30%252016.32.58.jpg

And a draw for controllers, keyboard, etc.

2013-06-30%252016.33.41.jpg

Made the draw from a shelf board from Bunnings - $12 for a 1200 x 300 board all edge banded. Couple of cuts and a few screws and instant solid draw.

Cheap and it works (bit like me :) )

Not much room left to play with inside the cabinet but turned out really neat.

2013-06-30%252016.33.30.jpg

Had to relocate the CPU radiator to the rear to leave enough room for the coin door but an easy fix.

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Found a spare day on my week of to be able to get back to my Voltek Arcade.

Installed the remaining art work. Love the result.

20131003_131035.jpg

Look.... TWINS! :)

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20131003_204919.jpg

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Found some spare time again this weekend so got stuck into my cabinet again.

Got the coin door from Suzo-Happ installed (apologies for the crap shots. Camera must have been zoomed or something???)

2013-06-30%252016.30.27.jpg

Also got the PC on slides in the base of the cabinet. Chopped up an Lian Li T60 for all the bits I needed and screw it onto a bit of leftover shelf (see below) then a couple of draw slides for easy access to all connections.

2013-06-30%252016.32.58.jpg

And a draw for controllers, keyboard, etc.

2013-06-30%252016.33.41.jpg

Made the draw from a shelf board from Bunnings - $12 for a 1200 x 300 board all edge banded. Couple of cuts and a few screws and instant solid draw.

Cheap and it works (bit like me :) )

Not much room left to play with inside the cabinet but turned out really neat.

2013-06-30%252016.33.30.jpg

Had to relocate the CPU radiator to the rear to leave enough room for the coin door but an easy fix.

did u use primer before painting?

looks like straight paint on mdf? did you seal the mdf?

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I used a primer on all the areas that are going to be seen all of the time. Areas like inside the door and inside the cabinet I used straight top coat. On the pics on post number 8 you can see the overspray of the primer.

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Hey man nice build...im about to start my own,do you still have the specs on length etc of your cabinet..im trying to get a good idea of height,width etc for judgement?

thanks

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Thanks Bonoscot. I have given a few details on cabinet specs in an earlier post, but as the cabinet design is from Arcadeworx in Australia, I assume there is some IP there that needs to be protected. If Troy from Arcadeworx is still reading these forums, maybe he would be happy to chime in with any extra details that he is willing to part with?

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Well after 12 months of being side tracked with every thing known to man, I finally made some more headway on my cabinet.

As mameshame asked at the start of the thread, the subwoofers did make the hard drives play up a little more than I had hoped. So I decided to go with a simple USB3 drive bay -

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A 4 meter USB lead and things should be a whole lot sweeter. But it meant I had to make a way to connect to it easily.

Went for a home theater wall plate that meant I only had to swap out the USB2 port on the wallplate to USB 3 and I had all I needed - 2 x USB, 1 x HDMI, 1 x ethernet.

Ports%2520on%2520Voltek.jpg

Started the wire looming with flexible braid and heatshrink and installed the front USB ports for game pads and guns. Still need to install the 24volt power connectors for the guns.

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More wire looming.....

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Had a little parcel arrive from Adafruit - 144 LED Neopixel flexible strips. Going to uses these on the acrylic side panels for a bit more bling.

Testing them out looked awesome.

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And then with a scrap bit of the sidepanel

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Should have the desired effect. :)

Rebated the joystick and trackball mounting points as needed

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And temp installed the PVC panel for the control panel.

2014-04-02%252019.02.49.jpg

Hopefully I can keep this pace up and be playing it soon.

Waiting on some joystick brackets from the UK so I can mount all of my CP gear. Then the wiring party!

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Joystick brackets arrived from the UK a couple of days ago. These new ones have a step in them so I was able to recess my control panel to have the joystick pass through a bit more without having to worry about pulling it through the wafer thin control panel :)

2014-04-13%252010.29.jpg

Of course the holes didn't line up but a quick trip to the drill

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Installed the joysticks and buttons for a quick test run. Pretty happy with the results.

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Then got some labels done for the buttons. Couldn't find an Australian 'insert 20¢' label any where so made one myself.

Will attach it to this post for anyone else who is looking (although it's hard to see how it turned out in this pic)

2014-04-16%252015.38.09.jpg

Basic label for the control buttons.

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Onto my favorite part of this whole thing... wiring party!!

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It will be a whole lot neater when I am done with this... :)

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I apologize if this has been mentioned but make sure you get some airflow on that amp. Mounting a car amp upside down like that is the absolute worst because it traps the heat on it. I R&R'd lots of amateur installed amps back in the day. Guarantee it will fail if you don't get some fans on it.

Looks great otherwise. Very cool project.

Another tip is that if you enclose the speakers in an airtight box, they'll sound much better and play louder. You can glue the corners on the inside to prevent air from seeping out.

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Cheers for the info suspendedhatch. Will be putting some ventilation where the amp is. Just getting all my wiring and mount up all of my gear to make sure I don't take up space I need.

I found while testing that the subs sound heaps better when I raised the cabinet up 15mm? I was actually thinking of putting in some sub-woofer ports on the side.

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Thanks Ashurax :)

To control the LED strips on the side, I need to use an Arduino as well as installing a capacitor to keep the power stable.

So I designed a shield that will plug straight onto my Arduino. They arrived this morning.

2014-04-17%252009.24.48.jpg

Time to break out the soldering iron.

Here it is all done except for screw terminals - ready for testing

2014-04-17%252011.01.39.jpg

Edited by maxxsinner

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You don't quite have an optimal volume of air space inside the box behind the sub. The paperwork that comes with the sub will tell you the optimum box volume for a sealed box, or the optimal size of the port for a ported box. That's going to be overkill for an arcade cab, but in a car it's very important. Putting in some ports is a good choice.

Cheers for the info suspendedhatch. Will be putting some ventilation where the amp is. Just getting all my wiring and mount up all of my gear to make sure I don't take up space I need.

I found while testing that the subs sound heaps better when I raised the cabinet up 15mm? I was actually thinking of putting in some sub-woofer ports on the side.

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It certainly is overkill for an arcade cab but that tends to be how I do things. Start at overkill and work up from there. :)

But I will be using this as a video jukebox as well so the speaker pointers will come in handy.

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Got a bit crook over the weekend so instead of working on the cabinet, I did some tinkering with the software.

Congrats to all involved in the massive changes to hyperlaunch, hypersync and every other area that has made life incredibly easier to configure hyperspin.

This community never ceases to amaze me.

So in one weekend I managed to get the bulk of my emulators up and running in hyperspin/launch. The artwork is being synchronized in the background so I decided to work on an another area of my setup.

A looooong time ago, H4CK3R was selling a setup of JRiver Media Centre with a predone user interface that I purchased. Its totally customization and allows me to have my machine as a video jukebox, normal jukebox or even movie player all controlled with joystick and buttons.... or Andriod app. :)

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And of course I had to add a theme on the main menu to be able to access the media centre.

Now the guys that do these awesome themes will probably get a laugh out of how simple my theme is, but it was good to learn a bit about Adobe flash.

Never used it before but work it out enough to be able to get the movie playing on the TV how I wanted.

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wow Maxx, its looking awsome!!!

looks like i while ago since the last post, hows it looking these days?

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Cheers Burts. Working on the software side at the moment as well as about a million other projects as you know.

I'm sure everyone is curious to see how it's twin is going though? :)

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But as I have been called out for an update :) I better give one.

One of the things that bugged me was the trackball backlight was not powerful enough.

And there is a catch 22 with how powerful the LED can be as to not overheat the trackball as well as how much the Pacled can drive.

So I made a board to be able to do the job -

Arcade%2520light%2520controller.png

and powered a Cree RGB LED with this board (and left a few spares cause I got issues....:D)

Really happy with the results. Matches the colour output to the buttons.

Will post a vid soon.

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Cheers Burts. Working on the software side at the moment as well as about a million other projects as you know.

I'm sure everyone is curious to see how it's twin is going though? :)

hahaha got me, yes i really should start a tread..lol

i have recently been spending a bit of time on it, made heaps of progress :)

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Are u worried the subwoofer will vibrate the cab too much and damage the hard drives? I would love to have a sub in mine but was concerned about that.

Best bet is to try something like these: http://www.amazon.com/Adam-Hall-SPADECO2-Monitor-Isolation/dp/B007YFWUDO/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1427335197&sr=1-1

Isolation pads work for speakers to dampen vibrations, so I don't see why it wouldn't work for a subwoofer. There may even be some that are specifically designed for subs too.

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