Flatpack 46/27/DMD

[neohusky]

Hi All

Like everyone else I have been inspired by the greats of this community Chris, Maxx, DeeGor and many others.

My project started over 12mths ago with the purchase of the screens and toys. Unfortunately, life (marriage and long honeymoon) got in the way .

The plan is to build a Williams Widebody clone with all the bells and whistles. The theme is still WIP.

Ideas change so rapidly around here that my plan for wiring and screens has changed. The delay of 12 months has seen the creation of LEDwiz booster and then revised booster boards. In addition to this pinDMD and then pinDMD2 were developed to bring us real DMDs. With both these significant changes all my plans for fuses, resistor boards and a long search or 15.6" screens we're in vein. Rather than sticking with original plans I decided to go with the latest ideas and trends.

Cabinet

- Arcadeworx Williams Wide Body flatpack

- Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit (Widebody)

Computer

- CPU: Intel Core i5 3570K (3.40GHz - 3.80GHz Turbo, 650-1150MHz GPU) LGA1155 Desktop Processor CPU BX80637I53570K

- CPU Cooler: Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H80i

- RAM: GSkill F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB DDR3 RAM KIT PC-12800 1600Mhz (2 x 4GB) Dual Channel [Ripjaws]

- MoBo: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H (rev. 1.0)

- SSD: Samsung 2.5" 128GB 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD128BW SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

- GFX: EVGA GTX 560 Ti 1GB DDR5 Nvidia Graphics Card PCI Express 2.0 x16

- PSU: Thermaltake 775w TPX-775MPCAU Toughpower XT Cable Management PSU TT-TPX-775MPCAU

Sound

Sound Card: sound blaster x-fi titanium hd pcie

Speakers: Creative GigaWorks T3 2.1 system

Screens

- Playfield screen: Samsung UE46D6000PW - 46" full HD

- Backbox screen: AOC e2752Vh Glossy Black 27" 2ms HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 20,000,000:1 (dynamic) Built-in Speakers

- DMD: Vishay LEE-128G032B controlled via pinDMD2

Cabinet Hardware

Buttons: Launch Ball, Start, Exit (Pinballlife)

4 x Clear Flipper Buttons (pinballheavenuk)

KeyboardEncoder: IPAC2

Plunger: Mot-Ion Adaptor Digital Plunger Kit

Coin Validators: 2 x $1 Australian

Force Feedback

LEDwiz

Zeb's Revised Booster Board

Contactors: 8 x Seimens 3RT1016-1BA42

Gear Motor: VW Golf Mk3 Front Wiper Moto

Replay Knocker: Williams/Bally Knocker Assembly AE-23-800

Shaker: Wolfsoft Shaker

Nudge: Microsoft SideWinder Freestyle Pro

Lighting

Topper: 5 x Cree RGBW LEDs

Playfield: 5 x Cree RGBW LEDs

TR 2 x 22 LED Car Truck Flash Strobe Light

UnderCab: 5M RGB 5050 SMD 150 Flexible LED Light Strips

InsideCab: 5M SMD5050 LED Rope Strip lights 300leds Cool white

Flippers: RGB litemite kit/URL]

[neohusky]

The customary PC parts lineup.

[neohusky]

PC Assembled last week and Win7 installed.

I tried winXP black edition to preload drivers for the SSD which was pre formatted on a win7 machine. WinXP appeared to install OK. After the first reboot following install I get BSOD. I persisted for hours and finally gave into win7.

How have ppl managed to install winXP using SATA ACHI mode?

[mikekim]

PC Assembled last week and Win7 installed.

I tried winXP black edition to preload drivers for the SSD which was pre formatted on a win7 machine. WinXP appeared to install OK. After the first reboot following install I get BSOD. I persisted for hours and finally gave into win7.

How have ppl managed to install winXP using SATA ACHI mode?

i think you have to initally install in IDE mode, then when you have it built to how you want it there is a registry hack to perform the change to AHCI and the original change in BIOS.

[russdx]

iv got the same mother board (very nice) It was a pain to install win7 on raid, when you get to the what hdd do you want to install on, you had to quickly swap back in the mother board cd and select the raid drivers. then swap windows cd back in. i think the SATA ACHI is a similar process to get it to work correctly?

[neohusky]

i think you have to initally install in IDE mode, then when you have it built to how you want it there is a registry hack to perform the change to AHCI and the original change in BIOS.

I had read about this,but, by this stage I had given up and didn't want more hassle. its too early in the build to play around with this so I think I'll leave it on win7 for a bit and change it later if performance becomes an issue.

[neohusky]

iv got the same mother board (very nice) It was a pain to install win7 on raid, when you get to the what hdd do you want to install on, you had to quickly swap back in the mother board cd and select the raid drivers. then swap windows cd back in. i think the SATA ACHI is a similar process to get it to work correctly?

The standard winXP doesn't have the ACHI drivers and you can interrupt the initial install process to add the driver from a disc. winXP Black Edition has all the drivers slipstreamed/preloaded so this step is not required. It falls over the first time it began to boot from the SSD after running through the whole install.

[russdx]

ah mine would fall over right at the end of the install just as it tried to boot windows for the first time. i was also told that win7 had all the correct drivers (but it dint) it did in fact want the ones that came with the gigabyte cd, the second i swapped the discs out and installed them it worked fine

[MTPPC]

I just installed on a conventional HD and then clonezilla'ed the image to the SSD.

[maxxsinner]

Been looking forward to seeing this build thread Neo.

[neohusky]

Been looking forward to seeing this build thread Neo.

Thanks Maxx

[neohusky]

I just installed on a conventional HD and then clonezilla'ed the image to the SSD.

Good idea. Hadn't thought of that. I'll certainly keep it in mind.

[neohusky]

I looked far and wide for a 30" monitor that didn't require selling any body parts. A used Samsung 30" Syncmaster 305T popped up on eBay. PERFECT. I pickup it up in great working order and put it in storage while my project waited for 12months.

I decased it with ease and recently connected it to the PC.

Oh NO! The screen appears to have gone. I'm getting vertical stripping across the whole screen and a 1 inch horizontal blur across the top. I changed the dvi cable, changed resolutions, attempted self tests and even tried it on another computer. Bad news! It's now no good.

I spent the weekend weighing up my options:

32" LED 720p tv

27" LED monitor

A 32" means a slightly larger backbox and slightly higher price. Whilst the 27" will fit nicely in a std sized Widebody backbox with a bezel probably painted on the backglass.

As many have advised in the past the backglass will simply display the static image and I was already ticked off at the loss of the 30".

I've settled on a 27" AOC e2752Vh. I used a similar AOC 27" for my hyperspin cab last year and found it easy to decase and image quality was acceptable.

[technohat]

[quote name='neohusky;221998

[ATTACH]23730[/ATTACH]

Oh NO! The screen appears to have gone. I'm getting vertical stripping across the whole screen and a 1 inch horizontal blur across the top. I changed the dvi cable' date=' changed resolutions, attempted self tests and even tried it on another computer. Bad news! It's now no good.

[/quote']

I wouldn't give up on the monitor just yet. First, look in the menu and see if there is an option to reset the monitor back to factory defaults. Second, if that doesn't work (it probably won't but it's quick and easy to do) then you might want to open the monitor up and see if there are any loose cables or bad capacitors. Loose cables are easy to fix, just plug them back in. Bad capacitors usually aren't too hard to fix either and they're usually pretty cheap to purchase. I've repaired a lot of flat panel monitors by replacing capacitors on the power supply boards and while I haven't seen your exact symptoms, nor have I worked on your model of monitor, I have seen enough weird screen problems caused by bad capacitors to suggest you at least open it up and take a look. Capacitors should be flat on top, if they are bulging or oozing then they are bad and need to be replaced.

[DeeGor]

Sounds like a beast. Arcadeworx makes some really nice cabs.

Looking forward to seeing this.

[neohusky]

I wouldn't give up on the monitor just yet. First, look in the menu and see if there is an option to reset the monitor back to factory defaults. Second, if that doesn't work (it probably won't but it's quick and easy to do) then you might want to open the monitor up and see if there are any loose cables or bad capacitors. Loose cables are easy to fix, just plug them back in. Bad capacitors usually aren't too hard to fix either and they're usually pretty cheap to purchase. I've repaired a lot of flat panel monitors by replacing capacitors on the power supply boards and while I haven't seen your exact symptoms, nor have I worked on your model of monitor, I have seen enough weird screen problems caused by bad capacitors to suggest you at least open it up and take a look. Capacitors should be flat on top, if they are bulging or oozing then they are bad and need to be replaced.

Unfortunately this monitor doesn't have ANY menus. The self test is to simply power on without a video signal.

I didn't want to go into too much detail of my diagnostics. After the usual checks I did actually take a look inside by removing the power board from the panel and checked all the wiring. I preyed for a blown cap, but, my preys weren't I answered this time.

[neohusky]

Looking forward to seeing this.

Loved your first cab and all the documentation. I can't wait to see what you come up with this time round.

[neohusky]

Cree heaven.

Had a few minutes spare before tackling the new monitor.

[neohusky]

The monitor decasing took a little longer than expected. I must admit that you can certainly see how cheaply these screens are assembled. Fortunately the image quality of the panel is acceptable for its intended purpose.

The front bezel came off easily. When I flipped the screen the rear case wouldn't come off. Closer investigation revealed that the rear case was attached to the power/video board shroud. Pulling on the rear case actually began pulling the power/video away from the panel. wtf?

I drilled out the point where the rear case was attached to the power/video board.

The power/video board shroud is attached to the panel with duct tape ??? OMG, how cheap? Looks like I'll have to augment the duct take with some stronger adhesive.

Finally, I broke the spot welds and removed to unnecessary brackets.

The final product a 27" panel 731mm x 368mm

[neohusky]

A little progress has been made since my last post. The cabinet woodwork is complete/ assembled

I have primed the inside white and I'm in the process of test fitting everything so I can work things out before finalising the paint work and getting started with the wiring.

I've gotten to the point where I want to lineup my coin door up with the lockdown bar. I've put in the siderail/playfield plastics and siderails.

My glazier who will be supplying the playfield glass only has 4mm or 6mm glass available. I tried a piece of 6mm glass and it will not fit the siderail plastic.

I think 4mm toughened glass will not be thick/strong enough and would prefer 6mm. Can the playfield glass be slid between the mdf and siderail without the plastic. Has anyone done this? If so did you cushion the glass with anything or is this not necessary with reasonable use?