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tyson171

46" / 30" /DMD" Planet Pinball Widebody

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This is now for sale! -

 

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/topic/11627-planet-pinball-widebody-4630real-dmd-for-sale/

 

This my prized Planet Pinball Widebody 46/30/real DMD.  I put a lot of handwork into this cabinet and paid special attention to a lot of details.  I've only completed my build a couple of months ago, but wanted to post an updated post here!

The artwork is very high quality designed by Stuzza and printed by Lucian.

The cabinet has the following -

Custom Built Wide Body Cabinet from high quality oak plywood from Mameman's plans with biscuit joints.

46" Samsung LED

30" NEC LCD (perfect for back glass)

Intel I5 3570k

Noctua Nh-d14 Cpu Cooler

Gigabyte Motherboard

8GB of Ram

128GB Samsung SSD

Geforce GTX 660TI

3x Cooler Master 220mm Fans on back of the cabinet

1x 120mm intake fan on bottom of cabinet

Real Vishay Dot Matrix Display

PinDMD 2

DMD piggy back board

80v/100v Transformer

8" Sub woofer (Dayton Audio)

2 4" Full Range Dayton Auto Speaker

Dayton Audio 2.1 Class D Plate Amplifier to drive everything (this setup sounds amazing!)

2x LED Bars wired by Zeb

Zeb's Digital Plunger Kit with Nudge

Zebs Gear Motor and Shaker Motor combo

Zeb's Boards to power/control everything

Optocoupler board to eliminate flipper lag

4x Leaf Switches

4x lighted buttons on the front

1x Large Launch Button

All buttons are wired up to an IPAC

8x Siemens Contactors for Force Feedback

Real Coin door wired to Ipac

Real Pinball Tempered Glass 3/16"

All real pinball hardware on the cabinet.

Mameman DMD Speaker Panel

Access Doors on the backbox and cabinet back.

I'm sure i'm missing something from the list above, may be adding to this list.

Here are the pictures -

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Thanks,

Tyson
 

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Edited by tyson171

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Hey Tyson,

Couldn't you just raise the board in the back, so it's flush with the top, then move the top board forward? You would probably have to re-cut the top board, but at least you're not having to re-cut your sides.

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Raising it would still leave the gap at the bottom, but I'm thinking I'm going to leave it as is and fill the holes once its all glued together. If I were to recut the back, and shorten the cabinet top, all of the back box weight would be sitting on pretty much just the cabinet top, versus having the cabinet top supported by the cabinet back.

If you cut the rear box and sides at a 45, the plans are off 3/4 of an inch. (Without cutting the rear at a 45 the back fits perfect "inside" the side, versus as the plans are written to with a 45 to place the cabinet back on the outer edge of the cabinet bottom . Or I'm just crazy and misunderstood something! :)

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For the triangle gap in the back I would just cut a small piece of wood and glue it in there. Then fill any gaps with wood filler and sand it. It's not going to be visible from any angle you care about for the finished product. That edge you have up front happened to me also and it's because the top edge of the front board is not cut at the angle of the slope of the side pieces. I'm just going to smooth it out with a hand-held belt sander and it will be an area that gets covered up by the lock down bar. I don't worry about things looking pretty unless its something others are going to see.

Gil

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Thanks for the advice guys.

So I'm getting ready to order my clamps....and wondering if there is a better (mainly cheaper way because I don't have any clamps) to glue up my cabinet bottom?

In my mind I'm thinking about the following -

8 Pipe clamps -

3 on the cabinet front and back

4 on the sides

1 on the cabinet back top

10 Bar clamps

Going to build a triangle jig for my mitered corners,

Thinking 3 on each side on the fronts and two on each side on the backs.

Looks like the clamps are going to run me about 120 shipped plus however much my pipe cost for the bar clamps.

Any suggestions or should I just suck it up and buy these?

(Using biscuit joints throughout and 45 degree cuts in the front)

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Updates -

Purchased my cabinet hardware from Virtua Pin Ultimate Cabinet Builders Kit (widebody) with upgraded Coin door - was about $525 shipped (urgh 62 dollars shipping killed me)

Purchased Custom WPC style Speaker Panel with the grills and dmd cover, painted flat black from MameMan!

Purchased my Clamps from harbor Freight Tools - Cost $132.59 Shipped.....Expensive Clamps even from Harbor Freight!

Purchased 3x COOLER MASTER Megaflow 200 R4-LUS-07AB-GP 200mm Blue LED Case cooler - Cost $45 shipped

Going to make a few "fitment" cuts tomorrow on my cabinet and start biscuit joints, will update with pics!

Anyone have any advice on speakers? I really like the idea of having speakers inside the cabinet to help emulate multiple sounds. Anyone have quality issues incorporating car audio speaker with computers and recommendation on brands/parts? I almost think I can get more of a "Pinball" sound with car audio speakers. Anyone have a suggestion on sub size and how many/components? Alternatively I can go the Pc Speaker router, I have a set of Logitech 2.1 THX speakers I use now that Sounds great!

Edited by tyson171

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Urghhh.....Made one of my so called "fitment" cuts today, come to find out my mittered corners are all cut at exactly 43 Degrees, not 45 :( . This puts me off by 4 degrees on how i did my cuts, which leaves me with a 1-2mm gap when trying to line up my cabinet front mitered cuts. Lesson learned, measure the actual degree with an angel finder prior to making final cuts (as mameman told me that was probably what i did ;) ) Going to re-cut my font and back now at a 47 degree cut, should fix this issue, I hope. Tricky part is that I have to figure out how to use my table saw this time around for my 47 degree cut.

Live and learn right?

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So have a bigger problem. This is my first wood working project and didn't realize that I couldn't cut a 46-47 degree cut with my table saw since both my table saw and circular saw only go up to 45 degrees. Honeslty i'm almost thinking that I might be able to get away with gluing up the front of my cabinet with the right corner clamps to pull everything together with biscuit joints (or may need to use an air stapler to pull this together)

So the question is, make the rest of the cuts in my cabinet, and try to glue up and possible fill the innner gap, or just recut everything. (or pay mameman to cut it for me...lol)

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Anyone try these yet as there main components in their cabs?

Complete Flipper Fidelity Sound System w/Amp

http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=103

Seems like they have gotten great reviews in original pinball machines. What would I use to power this? (dedicated 12v power supply or pc power supply?)

Thinking about ordering the above system, setting it up as an open air sub, and then adding a cheaper 2.1 pc system for the inside cab sounds with splitting the rom sound through vp software?

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Anyone try these yet as there main components in their cabs?

Complete Flipper Fidelity Sound System w/Amp

http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=103

Seems like they have gotten great reviews in original pinball machines. What would I use to power this? (dedicated 12v power supply or pc power supply?)

Thinking about ordering the above system, setting it up as an open air sub, and then adding a cheaper 2.1 pc system for the inside cab sounds with splitting the rom sound through vp software?

I ordered that system because that was what they said they used in their cabinets on virtuapin.net. I hated it so much I'm not going to use it. I know all about how the crossover doesn't work but I didn't even want to try a passive crossover. I bought some 5 1/4" Pioneer speakers at Walmart and connected it up on one channel and that 4" flipper fidelity on the other channel and it was a night and day difference. I bought a 10" Xploder sub-woofer at Walmart to replace that 8" speaker and I got a Kenwood power amplifier to replace that tiny Lepai amp. You can tell that Lepai amp can't deliver much by the wall transformer that powers it.

If you really want it still I'll give you a great deal on it...otherwise I might throw it in the trash.

Gil

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Thanks Degor and Gilrock. I honestly just lost a little faith in virtuapin with the mark up they have on these speakers. Nothing wrong with trying to make a buck, but you have to have a quality product to backup the price.

So I guess the next question is, what is the go to list of componets for a pincab?

What brands are tried and true tested and work good, and with what power source?

Thanks again for the advice guys, and sorry Gilrock those components didn't work out for you.

Edited by tyson171

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Thanks Degor and Gilrock. I honestly just lost a little faith in virtuapin with the mark up they have on these speakers.

Yeah, they mark everything up quite a bit. The cab builder kits they have are decently priced, but everything else is pretty out there. $6200 for a cabinet that has no leds or force feedback seems insane to me.

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Yeah but that ebay listing is for the amp only and then you pay another $10 for shipping and wait for it to be delivered from china. The virtuapin price includes that amp, 8" sub, and two 4" speakers...I think it's a fair price for what you are getting. I spent $115 alone for my amp, $80 for my sub, and $30 for my speaker pair. The cost of the sound system is down in the noise compared to the total cabinet....at least for me it is. :)

Gil

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You can get speakers pretty cheap on eBay, and those probably aren't high end speakers. I'm just saying with a little research, you can get a much better bargain.

As far as the speakers possibly coming from China, virtuapin is way backed up on a lot of orders. Someone was recently complaining that he's been waiting 4 months for his DMD, and still hasn't received it. Either way you're going to be waiting.

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You can get speakers pretty cheap on eBay, and those probably aren't high end speakers. I'm just saying with a little research, you can get a much better bargain.

As far as the speakers possibly coming from China, virtuapin is way backed up on a lot of orders. Someone was recently complaining that he's been waiting 4 months for his DMD, and still hasn't received it. Either way you're going to be waiting.

I guess this someone is me :) But let me add that a 6 to 8 weeks wait was to be expected for this order. It's maybe not the case for the speakers.

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Well I'm also waiting for a DMD from virtuapin but not nearly as long. I rushed to get everything I needed ordered so I didn't know of any other sources at the time. I'm also having to buy my PinDMD2 from them...also on backorder. I was trying to go direct for that but most of the boards were spoken for but a large number were being sent to resellers like virtuapin. My main complaint with them has been communication. I had an order for like $780 worth of parts and they shipped out one item worth about $100 and marked the order status as completed in their system. So I didn't like how their system doesn't show I was still waiting on most of the order. So after a couple days I email and was told the rest of the stuff will ship out either today (saturday) or monday. So on tuesday I check the system and it shows no new status. So I email again and was told its shipping out today (tuesday). On thursday I still see no change in status online so I emailed and requested a tracking number which I received and sure enough it did ship on tuesday it's just that the online system thinks the order is complete so nothing updates anymore. I get the delivery and the first thing I look for is the lock down bar and it's not in the box. So I email again....the response says you ordered a custom lock down bar and those take 3-4 weeks to make. I guess I was supposed to magically know that and when I was told the rest of my order was shipping I should have known that wouldn't be part of it. So they really haven't done anything wrong and most of my frustrations could have been alleviated by them having a better way of showing the order status online. Now I don't know how long to wait before I complain about the lockdown bar not showing up.

Gil

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Hmmm, I need to order my dmd and Pindmd2 as well. Anyone have any suggestions on where I should order this from? Was thinking of going with the following -

Vishay LEE-128G032B

PinDMD2

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I got both of mine from virtuapin also. I ordered mine long before I needed them so it didn't impact me much. It was at least a 2 month wait.

The ultimate cabinet builders kit was in stick and shipped instantly though.

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Hey guys.

I wanted to give my opinion of Virtuapin. I can say that Paul provides great customer service. He has spoken with me on the phone multiple times now and answers ALL of my questions. He is professional, helpful, and actually returns phone calls when I leave messages. I am also waiting on a vishay dmd and pindmd2 from him. I was fully aware prior to my order that these vishays were very hard to come by so I'm not surprised now. I checked around and was unable to find one in stock anywhere. I know that when they come in, Paul will ship them.

Also..

Tyson, I wanted to comment on your post on the first page of this thread. I think I can help you with your cabinet back if you haven't already come up with a solution. I think you should be able to just raise that back piece up so it sits flush with the top. I'm assuming that you will be installing a hinged door in the back like most of us have done. This means that you will essentially be cutting your cabinet back board into 3 separate pieces. The top, the middle (hinged door), and the bottom (that your legs mount to). You should be able to cut a new slightly taller bottom piece that can make up the difference in height. Hope this helps.

Nick

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Paul will be receiving the pinDMD2's the second i get them back from the assemblers and have tested them, should be very soon as they are currently being shipped to me :)

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Hey guys.

I wanted to give my opinion of Virtuapin. I can say that Paul provides great customer service. He has spoken with me on the phone multiple times now and answers ALL of my questions. He is professional, helpful, and actually returns phone calls when I leave messages. I am also waiting on a vishay dmd and pindmd2 from him. I was fully aware prior to my order that these vishays were very hard to come by so I'm not surprised now. I checked around and was unable to find one in stock anywhere. I know that when they come in, Paul will ship them.

Also..

Tyson, I wanted to comment on your post on the first page of this thread. I think I can help you with your cabinet back if you haven't already come up with a solution. I think you should be able to just raise that back piece up so it sits flush with the top. I'm assuming that you will be installing a hinged door in the back like most of us have done. This means that you will essentially be cutting your cabinet back board into 3 separate pieces. The top, the middle (hinged door), and the bottom (that your legs mount to). You should be able to cut a new slightly taller bottom piece that can make up the difference in height. Hope this helps.

Nick

Thats a great idea! LoL didn't think about that myself, thanks for the suggestion!

Also i'm not doubting his character or dedication to this hobby at all. It just pains me to see a 50-60 dollar markup on an item that a lot of our other members haven't been very happy with. With that said, I ordered my ultimate cab builder kit from him, and shortly placing my order for a dmd and pindmd2 from him.

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