Yardley Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Hello! I want to start by thanking everyone for all of their help! The amount of knowledge and resources on this site is incredible. I've been on a mission to finish my bartop arcade cabinet ever since I found about Hyperspin hehe. I finally received my kit from Tippers27 this week and I'm eager to get started. I'm basically replicating mikekim's Retrocade, he was kind enough to supply the PSD files for his artwork and my goal is to make it look as close as possible to the original Tinyarcade kit and Mikes build! Below is Mikes build, its beauuuutiful! lol http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?17297-Retrocade-bartop This is the kit I bought: I got a blank control panel so that I could drill the holes same as the Retrocade. Today I bought a scrap piece of MDF so that I could try out the half inch drill bit, fixing blocks I ordered separately, applying the vinyl and painting. Tried to spray paint it and it looked terrible, I did some research and priming with Kilz and applying latex paint with a smooth roller seemed to be the most recommended option so I think I'll go with that. Is the half inch hole right for happ competition and Sanwa JLW-UM-8? Here's the artwork printed on Vinyl. I fix Epson printers and a client was nice enough to print these out gratis after I fixed the machine Printed on an Epson SureColor SC30 solvent printer. Unlike the Tinyarcade, Tippers kit doesn't come with the plexiglass or brackets or marks on where to screw the fixing blocks so it will take some figuring out. Any advice from owners of this kit or the Tinyarcade on assembly would be great. (I believe the dimensions of both are about the same) I also ordered 1/2" Black T-Molding from Gremlin Solutions that I want to install, problem is I don't own a router... Was also looking for a plastic marquee lip similar to the one in the tiny arcade kit but the only thing I could find are ones that are wider and cover too much of the art. The one below seems close but the company is in the UK and they don't ship to the US. http://www.wickes.co.uk/white-pvc-edge-lip-5x25x2400mm/invt/162670/ Anyway, thanks again to everyone and I look forward to sharing my build! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 nice start so far Yardley. The fixing blocks are quite easy to work out, just use two on each end of each piece of wood (the rear base panel ones are slightly in from the edge at the rear to accommodate the rear panel) section and join them to the sides of the cab. if you have a copy of my plans it shows on the drawing where the fixing blocks are positioned. I used the same size hole drill for the joysticks, as i did for the button holes - it will be covered by the plastic washer that comes with the joystick. i used a 28mm (1- 1/8 inch) cutter to drill the holes. i applied the t-molding using a dremel and cutting bit, as i only had to cut a 1mm slot into the sides for the t-mold to fit. as for the marquee edging try this site - they will ship worldwide you might want to ask them if they will spit the pack, as i'm not sure you want 12!!) http://www.stock-plastic-profiles.com/products/rigid-edgings.html. if you want to google search for it try "upvc hockey stick molding" or "upvc hockey stick moulding" hope this helps. Mike.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Wow I have been looking for that everywhere, thanks! Did your tmolding call for a 1mm slot? The one I ordered specifies 3/32 which is 2.3 mm, seems a lot bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Wow I have been looking for that everywhere, thanks! Did your tmolding call for a 1mm slot? The one I ordered specifies 3/32 which is 2.3 mm, seems a lot bigger. I cant remember where i got mine from but i only had to put a really fine cut into it for the t-mold to fit. best advice is to measure the t-mold and see what works best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Got some things going today. Installed a piano hinge for the back panel, clamped everything down for positioning, made some marks, and started to installed the fixing blocks. Keeping my fingers crossed that everything will align ok. I think I'll do some painting tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Looking good! Where did you find those fixing blocks? I couldn't ever find them in my area. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks. Got them on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130813943545?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 Also available here: http://www.wickes.co.uk/fixit-blocks-white-pk24/invt/164410/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 All pieced together without clamps, got everything lined up pretty good. Ordered the marquee art from Lucian, picking up some plexiglass tomorrow and hopefully getting the t-molding groove done at a local wood shop. Any recommendations on a light for the marquee? Was also wondering about how to wire the lighted power button to the motherboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 For the marquee light, I used 12v led strip connected to a spare molex. The power button is a 5v red led connected to the pwrled + & - on the motherboard header. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Mike is this the one you have? http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/starpoint44mm.htm I might have ordered the wrong one, that one says 12v and I'm not sure if 44mm is the right size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 8, 2013 Author Share Posted March 8, 2013 Got the sides slotted today at a local shop! They have a CNC and gave me some decent prices to cut kits. If anyone in the US is interested in a kit and we get a few people together it will be pretty cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Mike is this the one you have?http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/starpoint44mm.htm I might have ordered the wrong one, that one says 12v and I'm not sure if 44mm is the right size. no, the power button is Seimitsu PS-14-S-01 with a red 5v led i'm using the 44mm Starpoints on my pinball machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Dammit lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 9, 2013 Author Share Posted March 9, 2013 Check out this sweet adapter guys: http://www.quail.com/P-WS-308/C14-To-515r-Adapter-Screw-Mt.aspx There's a minimum to order though. Haven't been able to find it anywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 10, 2013 Author Share Posted March 10, 2013 Put the art work on today! The control panel didn't align perfectly but I'll have to live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richie_jones Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Looking good mate.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 11, 2013 Author Share Posted March 11, 2013 Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 11, 2013 Share Posted March 11, 2013 Looking good. My bad, I should have mentioned that the artwork was designed for the tinyarcades kit, which has a lipped control panel, so the front art would be slightly off if there is just a standard join. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeychunkuk Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Looking great welcome to the Retrocade club nice paint job. I dont wanna put a spanner in the works but i noticed your cp art is lower down than mine its looks like your Joystick is going hit with the bottom have your tried lining it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Looking great welcome to the Retrocade club nice paint job.I dont wanna put a spanner in the works but i noticed your cp art is lower down than mine its looks like your Joystick is going hit with the bottom have your tried lining it up? It looks ok, might have to bend the microswitch contacts though. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Still waiting for the joysticks to arrive, they do look low but I was using Mikes pictures as reference, the dimensions of my CP are the same even though its a different kit. Hopefully everything fits ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 if you look at this reverse control panel shot you will see the joysticks fit with a couple of mm to spare (the footprint of the sanwas is a bout the same, if not smaller than the x-arcade sticks here) the board is the standard control panel dimensions and the holes where made with the .PSD template file. (the only difference on the file layout was an additional button on the top) you might have to bend the microswitch contacts to get it to fit but it should be ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Put the art work on today! The control panel didn't align perfectly but I'll have to live with it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]24883[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]24884[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]24885[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]24886[/ATTACH] one item of note, going back over this thread.. it looks to me that you haven't drilled the control panel as yet... you might find that the artwork could get damaged on drilling the holes, as most people drill the holes first and then cover with artwork. never tried it that way, so no idea on what the outcome might be??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yardley Posted March 12, 2013 Author Share Posted March 12, 2013 Mike, I'm actually thinking of cutting out the vinyl with an xacto knife before drilling. The buttons/joysticks are taking forever to get here! Wanted to ask, looking at the Seimitsu power button you linked previously, it still says Lamp, 12V, 18V and 24V. Did you fit your own LED? Was looking for 5v LED's on Gremlin Solutions and couldn't find any. one item of note, going back over this thread.. it looks to me that you haven't drilled the control panel as yet... you might find that the artwork could get damaged on drilling the holes, as most people drill the holes first and then cover with artwork.never tried it that way, so no idea on what the outcome might be??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeychunkuk Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 Sorry i didn't wanna panic anyone seems you will have plenty of room for the joysticks, as mike mentioned when i applied my artwork on the cp i put a hole in the centre of each button outline marked my wood and then drilled it before applying the art work, I'm sure it will be fine just use a sharp bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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