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Mini MVS


mikekim

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Bump for Progress update request!

nothing so far... had to do the whole "social thing" last weekend, so had no time to do anything...

hopefully there will be some updates tomorrow... (if i get time to work on it)

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update

really had an issue with the control panel and the button placement.. must be the ocd kicking in as i get older, the start button was slightly off center and was bugging me, so i cut a new panel.

20130414204337.jpg

other bits i did today...

finalized how the control panel underside is going to work with the small panel..

had to build layers to pad out the panel to accommodate the joystick and buttons.

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(don't even mention the c64 in the picture... i think i have more retro stuff now than i ever owned the first time it was around...)

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rear shot of cp showing cut out of layers to allow buttons and joystick.

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rear lock for hinged door

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rear door open for access to MVS Motherboard

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rear power connector installed

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joystick port installed for player 2 AES joystick.

stuff left to do..

sand down cab and apply wood primer to screw holes.

prime and paint

apply graphics

apply t-molding

install internal electrics

install screen

play lots.

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Ultracabs locks are good and easy to fit etc but you only get one key

had 4 arrive this morning.. (both sizes).. you are correct on the 1 key per barrel, but all the barrels are keyed alike, so one key fits all 4 :cheers:

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status update

started the first coat of primer, ready to be sanded, before the second coat is applied

20130418194521m.jpg

will not be able to do any more on this until next week.. more "family/social stuff" looming over the weekend..

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status update

started the first coat of primer, ready to be sanded, before the second coat is applied

20130418194521m.jpg

will not be able to do any more on this until next week.. more "family/social stuff" looming over the weekend..

great work can i be a pain and ask why folks are priming their wood before putting vinyl onto it?

podcastlogo_zpsc5a2f0fa.jpg

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update

started spaying the cab black today, hopefully it should be ready for the Vinyl to be applied on Saturday.

on a side note... this is what happens when the collector in me takes over..

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current MVS titles owned:

Super 138 in 1

161 in 1

Metal Slug 1

Metal Slug 2

Soccer Brawl

Viewpoint

Magician Lord

at this rate i'll probably end up getting a 4 or 6 slot motherboard and build a fullsize cab

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great work can i be a pain and ask why folks are priming their wood before putting vinyl onto it?

Most people seem to prime their cabs and paint them black before applying vinyl. I presume the vinyl goes on & stays on a painted surface better than on bare wood. Plus if the vinyl is ever removed, the cab will still look good without it.

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update

slow progress on the cab, i just cant get a good finish with spraying, so its a case of sand it down and start again... will have to look at changing the paint i'm using as well, it was supposed to be all purpose wood paint...

have managed to install the vinyl on the CP and attach the red t-molding though

20130427185538.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

update

some progress made this weekend..

put on the side art and t-molding.

started to put it all back together. (Loose fit at the moment as i have to do some tidying up, and all the internal wiring)

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also fitted the 15" monitor and Bronze polycarbonate screen.

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... one item i didn't take into account when designing this was that the back access door is flush to the sides, and after the t-molding has been installed there is a slight overhang, so ive had to trim the door and will need to pack out the sides with some wood... a job for next week.. also i'lll have to touch up some of the black paint thats been scraped when re-installing parts :banghead:

additional edit

quick test fit of the internal components, as a couple of people have asked how all the components are going to fit inside..

20130506200701.jpg

Jamma PSU SLG3000 and cga2vga Scaler PCB installed.. very tight but it all fits..

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... one item i didn't take into account when designing this was that the back access door is flush to the sides, and after the t-molding has been installed there is a slight overhang

You could take a flat razor and run it along the edge to trim off any excess t-molding, but this is this is easier to do before you assemble the cabinet. Your cab looks real good!

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You could take a flat razor and run it along the edge to trim off any excess t-molding, but this is this is easier to do before you assemble the cabinet. Your cab looks real good!

thanks for the compliment on the cab.. as for the t-molding, i looked at running a blade down the side to trim it flush, but the t-molding used is a red PVC coating over black base, so it doesn't look right when trimmed, as the black shows through, as shown in the photo below..

20130506205056.jpg

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Wow.. I have never seen that before... Where did you get that type of t-molding?

Got it from gremlinsolutions.co.uk. it was the only place in the uk where I could get 12mm in red

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II.

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  • 11 months later...

update

what a surprise... another one of my projects that remains unfinished to the standard it should be at..

the cabinet was working ok, but inside it looked like a "dogs dinner", so i've decided to rip it all out and start to wire it properly.

dhav.jpg

cable wrapped the jamma cables into the correct bundles (power, A/V, player 1 & 2, service and sound)

shortened the player 1 leads and crimped on a 12pin Molex connector.

player 2 connections are going to be soldered onto a db15 connector (so i can plug in an AES joystick for 2 player gaming)

e0z9.jpg

re-wired the control panel and made new cables for the leds. these cables will attach directly to the +5v and ground on the PSU.

crimped on the connecting end of the 12 pin molex. the molex connector will allow me to easily remove the control panel if required.

picked them up from ebay link - Molex connectors

vjft.jpg

close up shot of the wiring.

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  • 4 weeks later...

update

jamma psu was causing issues, (kept crashing the neo games due to fluctuations in power levels), so swapped it out for a 550w pc unit

y2vs.jpg

removed the molex connectors and replaced with a single 12pin connector.

will probably remove the 24pin connector and all of the unused cables (and just solder the green and black cables together) - you can see the paper clip linking the cables in the picture

not much else done on this due to lack of time, but managed to create a new label for the cart that matches the cab

bc9q1.jpg

r5bc0.jpg

designed in photoshop, printed on glossy white adhesive paper @300dpi

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