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About artman999999

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  • Birthday 02/08/1970

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    Glen Burnie, MD

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  1. Thought the knobs were all pretty much the same size... But don't get Groovygamegear's knobs, though. The quality is trash. Their other products seem fine - it's just the knobs.
  2. Your trackball IS close to the monitor. It won't be a problem for games like Missile Command or Crystal Castles, but might be a problem for golf or bowling games. Stay flexible in the design process and you'll get it all figured out.
  3. I did. Primed them grey with actual primer, waited a week for it to gas out, then sanded it glass smooth and wiped it down before putting on the graphics. You'll end up with a higher quality finished product that way. Using black laminate on non-vinyl areas is also a great idea, if you are up to it. Laminate is the same stuff used on the original machines, and looks flawless. But it's not the easiest thing to work with, so just stick with paint if you're not used to working with it. What are your plans for the trackball? You going to make a plexiglass or lexan cover for the cp? I did that on my 1st CP and it looked pretty good...
  4. Thanks for the info. While HS isn't the fastest FE out there, I really loved the artwork and slick appearance it gave each game. That said, when I started my cab I had every intention of using a 1280x1024 20'' monitor. Fast forward to a few years later, and I ended up using a true 1080P 32''. My cab ran great, but the pixelated artwork and workarounds I had to go through to get widescreen looking right were a nightmare. I've been using RetroFE for a while and it's pretty slick if you play around with it. But I'd RUN back to Hyperspin if widescreen was ever natively supported.
  5. I'd like to know which FE you're using now, as well.
  6. Make sure you don't have a thumb drive or external drive plugged in. Sounds dumb, but I forget to remove all the time after transferring files and get the same error.
  7. Still wondering why this is here. This game isn't emulated at this time - at least, not that I'm aware of.
  8. Lol. Always interesting to see real people behind the efforts. Quick heads up on your side art - most large-format printers run at 150 dpi, so make sure your artwork is AT LEAST 150 dpi and full-scale if you want it to be crisp. That means that at 6ft tall, your side art should have a resolution of approximately 4000 x 10,800. Creating an image that large isn't a big deal, but that means your logo components will all need to be roughly HD resolution (say, 2000 x 2000). If you do an image look up for each game image you want on Google, filtering by at least 2MP and higher, you should be able to find most of the classics in some form or other. For example, a quick search for "Asteroids game" turned up an Asteroids marquee image that was 4000 pixels wide, so finding artwork shouldn't be a problem. If you have a small image that you REALLY want on your cab, you can always use a vector converter program (Vector Magic comes to mind) to import any image, convert it to vector, then re-save it as a jpg/png/bmp/whatever at resolutions up to 10,000 x 10,000. Vector art is lossless when enlarged, so it's ideal if you need to blow up an image to a massive scale. Cell-shaded style artwork enlarges flawlessly, but anything with shading and gradients will be more of a challenge and might require some Photoshop-ing after the artwork is enlarged. You put Fix-it-Felix in your system? I was never able to get the resolution to scale to an acceptable size, and sometimes the wrapper would crash. So I ended up removing it. I knew a lot less about the scene back then, so maybe I'll try again.
  9. Never used Xinmo either - I'm a big Ultimarc fan. But that said, your "play" button should be set to "enter". Yeah, you could set it to something else in Hyperspin, then in RL, etc, etc. But you're going to need an enter key at some point or other for most everything, so just set your encoder so your play button is enter and you're set.
  10. Saw this YT video about bending mesh, and will do this for my fan covers if I ever build a barcade. Barcades often have the DISADVANTAGE of being seen on all sides, so you want it to look good all around. Or you could just get custom fan grills (I have one with flames on it, although no one will ever see it on the back of my cab Good luck! Fun project...you'll learn a lot along the way.
  11. Marquee-sized monitors are still way too expensive for mainstream ($500-$800). But forgetting about using an oddball screen size monitor and focusing on the mechanics of displaying the controls, there are really only 2 options that work in real time - CP Wizard or CP WizBiz. I consider myself a real nerd and I BATTLED trying to get these programs to do exactly what I wanted. But in the end, I ended up creating my CP in Photoshop (basically already had it from doing the artwork), created layers for every button and every text, then manually created images that display at launch until the user presses a button (via a user library routine in RocketLauncher). Then artwork, custom fonts, pretty graphics, etc, were no longer an issue. This worked fine for a library of 300 games, working on 10-20 of these a night while building the cab, but I realize this is totally impractical for a cab with thousands of games.
  12. I built a standup cab, but the concept would be the same. My PC case had a separate metal plate that the MOBO was mounted on, which was tack-welded to the metal frame. I just cut out that plate and screwed it down to the wood floor behind my monitor, then mounted the MOBO to it the same way you would in a normal pc case. This way, you don't need to worry about special risers, over-tightening, hole placement or any of that other stuff, since the MOBO is mounted to the baseplate the exact same way it is in your case. I did the same thing with HD mounting plate which is screwed to the side of the cab (also visible on the right), allowing me to change it or the MOBO without a huge ordeal. In your case, you could put the MOBO on the back of your barcade, with your PSU between the gap created between your MOBO and the monitor (at the bottom). The only hiccup with this method is if you use a beefy graphics card (which I did). There's no longer any top support for the card, so I bent a metal bar (slightly visible in the picture) to stop the card from wobbling around and potentially breaking the GPU contacts or damaging the PCIE slot. You'll still need to have some sort of ventilation somewhere on the cabinet, though (maybe put your case fan on the very top rear and have it blow out the back? If anyone's curious, the relay on the left takes the low amperage 12V line from the PSU and switches the output to a 25amp output that powers the fuse block, which then powers all of the cab lights. No risk of burning out your PSU that way. -A
  13. Makes sense to just have a program profile set up in J2K for that emu and you're done. Provided the background process is properly set up in J2K, it's pretty much guaranteed to work. If it's a multi-system emu (MAME, for example) where this mapping would overlap other machines, you could set up system-specific key remapping in Rocketlauncher and that might work. I've found this doesn't ALWAYS work though, especially for PCLoader games that seem to completely override the remapping .ahk. I hear a lot of people bail on J2K, but it's always worked great for me, and it's not like you NEED to use it for very many emus.
  14. IMHO getting the EMUs running really wasn't the most time consuming part. What will kill you will be solving the little problems. Like why does my emu window flicker for a second during fade in? Or why does my HS wheel show through my bezel? Or why do my games work fine in the EMU but there are problems when they run through the launcher? Or why can't I find a theme for the Korean fighting game "Rabbit"? Or why does the flash animation in a theme make my PC completely lock up during wheel selection? Trust me, you'll have the base foundation up and running in no time. It will be all the little things that will keep you up late. I would recommend getting everything running smoothly and looking pretty on each system, then move on. You can always add more games once each system is stable. And be prepared to have the artwork take some time - FTP is the ONLY way to go for this. You also might want to be forward-thinking when you set up your frontend and launcher. If you're new to this, you might not understand what I'm saying next, but you will soon enough. Try to put your HS and launcher folder on your computer's main directory (the C: drive for most) and make as many folder paths relative as you can. If you ever need to switch out your hard drive, you can then just take a few folders from your old drive, drop them on your C: directory and everything will magically work. But if you put some of your files in your pictures directory, then others in your documents, then others in downloads, etc, etc, it will be a nightmare to migrate the system. It might make sense at the time, but just consider what will happen if you need to move everything somewhere else, or if you decide to make another system, but with different hardware. Think modular, not system or hardware-specific. Last piece of advice. Be prepared to compromise quality for stability in some cases. A quick example: The AAE emulator is THE best looking vector EMU there is. It also hasn't been worked on in over 10 years, is WAY behind the times from a technical standpoint, isn't all that stable, and doesn't render in HD... but damn it sure makes those Asteroids shots stand out along with silky smooth frame rates. But MAME, when combined with proper HLSL effects, does a great job with vector games and is mega-stable....but you can just BARELY see those 1-pixel shots. So you compromise. Or you don't, and slug it out. I'll stop preaching. Have fun on the journey. I'm kind of sorry mine's over. Maybe I'll make a mini-arcade with only 1 JS and 3 buttons...
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