p0giewan Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Ok.. spent the last month accruing parts and aside from a couple things I'm still waiting for should be good to start turning what now appears to be a stack of boxes and pieces of wood into something that resembles a cab. This will be my first attempt at a pinball cab so should be fun. I was toying with ideas for a theme, originally thinking Twilight Zone but then I remembered years ago when Timeshock first came out seeing some kind of rendering of an actual cabinet which looked awesome. I shot barnstorm an e-mail to see if any cab art existed and lo and behold, it was an option on their kickstarter so I upped my pledge for the art also. I lost countless hours to Timeshock when it first came out (out of many moves, including an emigration one of the few things I have retained from that point in time is my original Timeshock CD in jewel case) which is still my all time favorite virtual table so is a natural choice for me for a virtual cabinet. Specs: Cab Body: Widebody Cab kit from Virtuapin along with backbox and Ultimate Widebody and buttons kits. Computer: ASUS ROG Mainboard Core I7 Ivy Bridge @ 3.4Ghz Gigabyte Geforce GTX 770 750GB Samsung EVO SSD Screens: LG Electronics 42LN5700 42-Inch 1080p 120Hz LED-LCD Samsung UN29F4000 29-Inch 720p 60Hz LED HDTV Vishay APD-128G032A Plasma DMD Lighting: 10 x Cree LED's (5 for above playfield and 5 for top of backbox) 2 x 22LED Strobes Feedback: Zebs Virtual Ouput Kit 8x Siemens Contactor 3RH1140-1BB40 Shaker/Gear Motor combo from Zeb Williams/Bally Knocker Assembly (AE-23-80) Sound: 5.25" Flipper Fidelity Kit with 8" Sub Power: NZXT 850W Modular PSU (For Computer/DMD) Corsair 600W Modular PSU (For Zebs Booster Boards) Didn't go into crazy amounts of detail there. Just the basics. I highly recommend Bill55's build thread (here) for a really good detailed shopping list with links. This helped me immensely. The Stack. From a first time builder perspective it is definitely looking at me in an intimidating manner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigapig Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Wow that is some high spec kit you have there, what else is it going to be playing? Looks great and I look forward to seeing more, and hopefully you'll be finished when TimeShock is finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Yeah, I realize its a little above the recommended spec for visual pinball. Just want all the bases covered for future pinball, Timeshock, Pinball FX & Pinball Arcade if they ever get their cab support working properly. Also watching Unity3D Pinball with interest. I figure this will run pretty much everything I throw at it smoothly with high detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakenbake Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 You will enjoy the 770. We have done a few machines with it now and I am amazed at it's performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Got to hit this hard over the weekend "Modified" my cab kit somewhat to accommodate fans and expand the existing subwoofer hole which was too small. My jigsaw skills are definitely improving.. those holes look almost round . Got the base of the cabinet put together, installed some mounts for the "computer shelf" I built up last week and also for the screen. These went better than I hoped and both fit in there really nicely. Only snag I hit was my initial placement of the computer shelf mounting.. was a little too high and the screen was hitting the computer. Got Windows installed and did a little "testing" as its pretty much the first time I've had the screen running. Installed some Pinball FX2 and am overall pretty happy with the results. Colors are good, no lag in game mode, good viewing angles. The only downside is no auto on when it powers up. Don't know if there is a setting somewhere but its not a huge deal. The power button is under the right hand edge which puts it in easy reach through the coin door and adds somewhat of a "security feature" in that you can't power actually use it without being able to hit that button to power on the main screen. Nice when there are kids in the house who have a talent for breaking practically anything they touch. Next on the to-do list: Finish painting the base. Then add the legs. Start on the backbox. Start wiring some buttons for proper "testing" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Nice!!! I got the day off and I use it to work on the cab what a nerddd I am lol ... I got the lockdown bar + lock in placement, paint job on the legs (black), and transformer placement behind the DMD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 Lol... mine devoured pretty much my entire weekend. I think my girlfriend is off work next weekend so I won't get a lot done then so it all balances out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 15, 2014 Author Share Posted April 15, 2014 You will enjoy the 770. We have done a few machines with it now and I am amazed at it's performance. From what I've seen so far it is a really nice card and considering all I want it to do is play pinball it should be more than adequate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 From what I've seen so far it is a really nice card and considering all I want it to do is play pinball it should be more than adequate It will run all tables like butter!! Nice PC specs ... I will buy mine soon, but not like the monster you have lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Hit my first major speedbump. Unpacked the DMD last night, got my PinDMD2 installed and the DMD is defective. Runs great aside from the top row of pixels and some really dull pixels around the left hand side. One of those things where if I had picked it up used and cheap I could "probably" live with it.. but in a brand new unit it isn't acceptable. *Edit.. I'm a moron. All it needed was the PinDMD2 firmware update. There is one specifically for this particular DMD to resolve issues" On the plus side, finished painting the base and got the legs on. Started wiring buttons and I should have one of Zebs virtual output kits showing up in the next couple of days. My TV power issue is also resolved now that I had more time to mess with it. If it is powered on and off by the power strip it will actually power on automatically. Thinking about an alternative speaker/DMD panel. I got one as part of my cabinet kit and it is really thin MDF which is already cracking a little where some of the threaded inserts are embedded. Pre-drilled holes also go all the way through so looking at it from the front it ain't gonna look too pretty. The new Williams assemblies look nice but they're also $200 for the complete thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrhp Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Thinking about an alternative speaker/DMD panel. I got one as part of my cabinet kit and it is really thin MDF which is already cracking a little where some of the threaded inserts are embedded. Pre-drilled holes also go all the way through so looking at it from the front it ain't gonna look too pretty. The new Williams assemblies look nice but they're also $200 for the complete thing. If it's the VirtuaPin version, they're designed to be finished with a plastic cover piece, like the WPC (pre-WPC-95) games - e.g., Addams Family. That covers all of the attachment hardware cosmetically and gives it a nice finished look. The plastic is held on with mounting tape. That's how I'm handling mine - I'm doing a laser-cut acrylic face (with the speaker holes cut out) and a decal on top of that with custom artwork. I have a couple of real machines from that era, so I figured my virtual cab would harmonize better with those if I used the same panel style. (I also think the WPC-95 black panels are kinda plain looking, but some people like the cleaner look.) I'd be happy to send you an SVG with my laser cutting template, although I'm not sure how much variation there is in the VP cutting precision - you might want to measure yours and do your own template to be sure you get the measurements exactly right for it. Are you using T-nuts for all the screw attachments? The holes are drilled for #6-32 T-nuts, and you're meant to use machine screws in the 1/2" to 3/4" range to hold the various pieces in place. Except for the four that hold in the DMD, which are drilled for #4 machine screws; the Williams panels had those installed with the heads on the front side and the threads sticking out the back. I'm not exactly sure how they're fastened on the front side in the Williams setup, but I'm guessing the heads are just epoxied in place, which is what I plan to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted April 18, 2014 Share Posted April 18, 2014 Hit my first major speedbump. Unpacked the DMD last night, got my PinDMD2 installed and the DMD is defective. Runs great aside from the top row of pixels and some really dull pixels around the left hand side. One of those things where if I had picked it up used and cheap I could "probably" live with it.. but in a brand new unit it isn't acceptable. Contacted Mouser electronics and requested a return.. despite having it less than 30 days and being defective out of the box I am told there is no "normal" return policy for these and they have to go through the manufacturer. They also can't give me a time frame as to how long this process is going to take so I'm out a DMD for an undetermined amount of time. On the plus side, finished painting the base and got the legs on. Started wiring buttons and I should have one of Zebs virtual output kits showing up in the next couple of days. My TV power issue is also resolved now that I had more time to mess with it. If it is powered on and off by the power strip it will actually power on automatically. Thinking about an alternative speaker/DMD panel. I got one as part of my cabinet kit and it is really thin MDF which is already cracking a little where some of the threaded inserts are embedded. Pre-drilled holes also go all the way through so looking at it from the front it ain't gonna look too pretty. The new Williams assemblies look nice but they're also $200 for the complete thing. Are you sure is the DMD? Did you use the pinDMDsettings.exe from here: http://www.pindmd.com/downloads-v2/utils/ And adjust the intensity all the way to the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 Are you sure is the DMD? Did you use the pinDMDsettings.exe from here: http://www.pindmd.com/downloads-v2/utils/And adjust the intensity all the way to the left. I edited the post. It was a firmware issue with the DMD2 which sorted the glitches. I'm assuming that utility will resolve the brightness issue. I'll see how much time I get to mess with it at the weekend if any. This sucker also gave me a new respect for electricity last night when I plugged it back in and my finger brushed over one of the rear components when I was setting it down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 If it's the VirtuaPin version, they're designed to be finished with a plastic cover piece, like the WPC (pre-WPC-95) games - e.g., Addams Family. That covers all of the attachment hardware cosmetically and gives it a nice finished look. The plastic is held on with mounting tape. That's how I'm handling mine - I'm doing a laser-cut acrylic face (with the speaker holes cut out) and a decal on top of that with custom artwork. I have a couple of real machines from that era, so I figured my virtual cab would harmonize better with those if I used the same panel style. (I also think the WPC-95 black panels are kinda plain looking, but some people like the cleaner look.) I'd be happy to send you an SVG with my laser cutting template, although I'm not sure how much variation there is in the VP cutting precision - you might want to measure yours and do your own template to be sure you get the measurements exactly right for it.Are you using T-nuts for all the screw attachments? The holes are drilled for #6-32 T-nuts, and you're meant to use machine screws in the 1/2" to 3/4" range to hold the various pieces in place. Except for the four that hold in the DMD, which are drilled for #4 machine screws; the Williams panels had those installed with the heads on the front side and the threads sticking out the back. I'm not exactly sure how they're fastened on the front side in the Williams setup, but I'm guessing the heads are just epoxied in place, which is what I plan to do. I'm at the stage now of starting on the backbox so I don't have much of anything figured out. Realizing there is a little more to it than adding a panel. I have 5.25" speakers so I don't know if they will fit or how they would translate to a Williams WPC panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Ufffff! Take care, you are "playing" with High Voltages! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted April 19, 2014 Author Share Posted April 19, 2014 DMD working. Cab legs on and majority of the base painted. Cooling fans installed. Coin door is just sitting in its hole for now as its a nice snug fit and also one less thing off the pile of parts. I'll wait until I get artwork sorted out until I screw that in properly. I'm using NZXT cooling fans. (Buy Link) The 200mm have a low amazon review because they use a slightly different hole pattern which doesn't fit in a bunch of computer cases. I picked these because I have four of the 140mm fans in my Mame Cab and they keep it like a refrigerator and are very quiet. Using 2 x 200mm on the back and 2 x 140mm in the front as intakes on the bottom. Also picked up a USB 2.0 card which is actually quite a chore to find in PCIe and actually kinda pricey (Everything is USB 3.0) (Buy Link) My motherboard's USB ports have a permanent power on "feature" which I can't turn off which doesn't look like a good situation for the PinDMD2 board. Figured I'd play it safe and its cheaper than replacing the PinDMD2. Also gives me some more 2.0 ports. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Loving it, keep the good work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Been a busy couple weeks but still making some progress here and there. Pretty much have the bottom of my cab "locked down" as to where everything is going to go and wiring has commenced As far as resolutions to prior problems.. received my USB 2.0 PCIe card and installed that last weekend. The ports on this ARE powering off so that is one issue down. Ordered and received a Williams Speaker/DMD panel from (here) Managed to grab a standalone panel and DMD clear cover for $65 and $10 respectively rather than the $200 for the whole assembly. Have a pretty good idea how that is going to fit together with my virtuapin panel so I will be tackling the backbox this weekend. Also ordered the playfield glass from (here). Have the next four days off work (yay) so hoping to make some more progress over the weekend. Kinda dreading doing the LED's as I haven't really soldered before. Next challenges are going to be how to bezel around the main screen to fill in the gaps and setting up the ledwiz which I also have not dealt with before. Also need to measure up and make the flasher panel for above the playfield screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Made some headway this weekend Backbox is *almost* together. Need to cut out a couple holes in the rear panel for fans (returned the 200mm I originally had planned for this and got a couple of 140mm). In the "planning" stage for this I imagined way more room in a cabinet than there actually is. Finished wiring up Zebs Booster Boards for power and got the Contacters, Shaker/Gear Motor and some of the front panel lights working with the LEDWiz. For the speaker/DMD panel: The unfinished virtuapin panel is screwed into the backbox with the speakers mounted. The Williams Panel was mounted from the back to this via some size 6 machine screws going through the wooden virtuapin panel, then the DMD and into the mounting posts on the Williams panel itself. DMD is sandwiched between the two. Really pleased with the way that came together. Backbox monitor I just mounted on a cheap low profile TV mount. Next on my list is to figure out bezel for around the main playfield which will snowball into the LED/Strobe panel. The two are going to have to go pretty much hand in hand. Playfield glass also showed up yesterday but I'm nowhere near ready for that yet. Spent a bunch of yesterday configuring the software side. Got Hyperpin installed and working with around 10 tables. Messed around with the Direct B2S backglasses and got those working. Really happy with the results although a few tables seem to be very jerky/laggy with the LEDWiz enabled. I don't know if there is a workaround or way to optimize this or if I am missing something somewhere. Haven't really delved too far into that yet. Need to also figure out how to get rid of the "virtual" DMD which shows on screen as everything is displayed on my actual DMD. This is only an issue on the tables with no Direct B2S backglasses as you can remove it as an option on the backglass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted May 7, 2014 Author Share Posted May 7, 2014 Another problem solved Was getting a bunch of stutter on some tables with the LEDWIZ, with Batman probably being the worst offender to the point of being unplayable. Only happens when I run directly from VP.. Running through Hyperpin resolves this and everything running silky smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 nice progress!! loving the real Speaker panel, how much did it cost you? Mine wasn't cheap.... I like yours because it doesn't have that 5 1/2" and 3" speaker holes ..... I never got the 3" hole attachment off the damn thing so I manage to Macgiver something around it to put my 5 1/2" speaker there lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 you need to hide the DMD, you need to seek for the hide dmd code line and put a 1 or 0 ... don't remember, but is the opposite of the number when you find it. Try to use PinballX if Hyperpin is giving you trouble, I will be moving to PinballX myself Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 nice progress!! loving the real Speaker panel, how much did it cost you? Mine wasn't cheap.... I like yours because it doesn't have that 5 1/2" and 3" speaker holes ..... I never got the 3" hole attachment off the damn thing so I manage to Macgiver something around it to put my 5 1/2" speaker there lol Speaker Panel is two main parts. Unfinished speaker/dmd panel from Virtuapin: (LINK) $29.95 This is the part that is screwed to the actual backbox and holding the speakers. I got the Williams panel from Pinball Life (LINK) Panel was like $65 with another $10 for the DMD glass. Speaker mesh I had already from Virtuapin and I just cut it to size. Front panel is held in place with screws coming through the Virtuapin panel on the back which hold the front panel on and also hold the DMD in place. I think this was a lucky find though. I've only seen the standalone panel itself once and I grabbed it. They only seem to have the $200 full assembly in stock most of the time. Probably about $120 for the whole thing all in and I'm really pleased with how it turned out. Will look better when I get the damn back panel installed and a bezel on the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampirolatino2 Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 cool! Have you started soldering your LED Bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p0giewan Posted May 10, 2014 Author Share Posted May 10, 2014 Not yet.. Maybe this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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