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I am now officially jealous! A bartop is something that I have always wanted since for years (and moreso since I joined this community two years ago.) I can't wait for some more of my kids to get grown up and leave the house so I can finally afford to build one lol. Looks great, and can't wait to see the final results!

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Looks amazing. Been through your site multiple times and you inspire me to make my own custom cab after I finish my current Dynamo HS-5 conversion. Just wanted to let you know you have a big big fan and to keep up the awesome work.

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Looks amazing. Been through your site multiple times and you inspire me to make my own custom cab after I finish my current Dynamo HS-5 conversion. Just wanted to let you know you have a big big fan and to keep up the awesome work.

Sweet man thx for the kind words it really means allot to us :D

(sorry for my late reply, im not getting notifications from subscribed threads)

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  • 1 month later...
Awesome jahilton2002, I recently bought the Festool track saw, router, and domino. After some heavy research these seemed like the best tools. I will be doing my first build of an upright or anything out of wood for that matter soon. Great work so far!

Hi brucelee00, thats a great start to a Festool collection, a domino is on my wish list ! There's a festool users web site which is awesome Festool Owners Group !

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Thanks for the fine comments......the LCD mount is now our signature and we'll be using to on all our cabs from now on.

The Bartops (as in 2) are gonna be carbon wrapped with a custom marquee. not sure on the control panel yet..... Any input on this matter would be great!

It's kinda cool now many people follow us now (facebook, Google+ and twitter)

Feel free to visit our site and "like" us on any or all ;) of the social media site :D

Just click my SIG.

Thx again

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The Bartops (as in 2) are gonna be carbon wrapped with a custom marquee. not sure on the control panel yet..... Any input on this matter would be great...

The only bartop specific suggestions i can offer on the CP is keep it as uncluttered as possible. You don't have as much space on those baby cabs for admin buttons and the like as you do on a full sized panel, so they quickly get cluttered looking if you add the usual range of admin inputs.

For my last bartop (pic below), i kept the dedicated admin buttons as minimal as possible, i used a 3 in one button i got from gremlin solutions (http://www.gremlinsolutions.co.uk/products/sspb4.htm) to give me 3 inputs for escape, coin, and pause, and you can assign another two inputs using the shifted keys feature on the ipac (ESC can't be shift mapped on the ipac boards). Those 3 in 1 buttons are great for saving space. They fit in one standard 28-29mm hole, and the casing comes apart so it's easy to spray paint it to match the colour scheme of your cab.

Aside from that i just put a 1P start, a 2P start, and left and right pinball flippers on my machine, and i made a conscious decision to put all the admin buttons on the sides and front of the machine, rather than on the panel, cluttering things up. I'm sure you know, but you can get away with just one coin insert button, you don't need one for each player. Also i would look into a software control for the volume if you want to save yourself space with installing dedicated volume up and down controls. I used a freeware volume control app and assigned shifted keys to my joystick, and now holding the shift key and moving the stick up or down activates the volume app and changes the volume accordingly. PM me if you want more details on this.

If you're using shifted controls to save space, i would advise you to have your control panel wrapped in a custom graphic, and when you're creating the graphic, build in some explanations of the controls and the shifted controls on the artwork by each button. It's something i never did with mine, but i would do differently next time, as having some kind of schematics or labels for what each admin button does and what it's shifted function is would be nice.

img0773h.jpg

picjj.jpg

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I'd like to keep the admin buttons as close to our full size cabs as poss..... so maybe use some smaller buttons.... or just less of them

Maybe try some 24mm start buttons instead of the usual 28mm? Sanwa do good 24 mm buttons but they are very light touch, designed for fighting games to give fast response and a shallow responsive press. You can get other ones with deeper plungers though, and that button size would be perfect for a small cab.

Lots of different ones here:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=24mm+arcade+buttons

I role out with the three button set up that Mike designed works fine for me

What are the 3 buttons? Do they have any other hidden functions? How do you change volume, save states, etc?

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If i press the 1up(shift) i can volumes using the joystick up and down the pause is to pause games and the esacpe and select go back and fourth into the menus, with shift button you can add a second function to any button and add other functions save screen,etc

Here what Mike sent me

mappings for ipac

COIN 1 = 5

COIN 2 = 6

START 1 = 1 (also Shift key)

START 2 = 2

1 RIGHT = R arrow

1 LEFT = L arrow

1 UP = U arrow (Shift = Volume UP)

1 DOWN = D arrow (Shift = Volume Down)

1 SW 1 = L-ctrl

1 SW 2 = L-alt

1 SW 3 = space

1 SW 4 = L-shift

1 SW 5 = Z

1 SW 6 = X

1 SW 7 = P (pause & favourites)

1 SW 8 = NONE

1 A = NONE

1 B = ENTER (Select)

2 RIGHT = G

2 LEFT = D

2 UP = R

2 DOWN = F

2 SW 1 = A

2 SW 2 = S

2 SW 3 = Q

2 SW 4 = W

2 SW 5 = I

2 SW 6 = K

2 SW 7 = NONE

2 SW 8 = NONE

2*A = NONE

2 B = ESC (Escape)

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Not bashing your build at all its some fine work but what made you use 2 layers of wood on the sides?

Take a closer look at any arcade out there and you will see t-molding on the edges. You can use a router running along the edge to make the slot. I've seen one of the online stores sell the exact bit to use with their t-molding, don't remember which though.

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk 2

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Not sure what size is required, but this is probably what you need if you have a router:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Groover_134.html

Or there's always the option of using a Dremel with a suitable cutting disc and depth guide.

I would imagine the tricky bit is getting the slot exactly central so the t-molding doesn't stick out one side or the other.

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