freezy Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Hi guys, I think everybody starts the first build thread with the same intro and I'm no different. After months of reading and planning, the work has finally started. The hardware I got together a few weeks back, but the cabinet building session was not until last weekend. I have to thank everybody in this forum, specially maxxsinner, DeeGor and many more, you've been really helpful! Cabinet Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit (Standard Body) Williams/Bally coin door Button Kit AC Power Socket AC Power Interconnector Ethernet Socket Headphones Jack USB Port 2x 200mm Fan and grill 2x 120mm Fan and grill Speakers: Creative GigaWorks T3 4x Revoltec COLD-LIGHT CATHODES for backbox backlight Night button for turning off solenoids and knockers 2x Double-bitted Lock for Backbox and Cabinet door 16x PCB Feet for PC mounting 4x Transparent Flipper Buttons 2x Beverage Caddy Pro (important!) PC Hardware CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K BOX, 3.3GHz, LGA 1155, 4C/4T MB: Asus P8Z68V PRO GFX: Asus GTX-560 HDD: 60GB SSD CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 13 RAM: 2GB DDR3 PSU: 750W Corsair Screens Samsung UE40ES5700, 40"LED, 100Hz Samsung 26" LCD Monitor (an old and crappy one) Controllers Mot-Ion Adaptor Digital Plunger Kit LED-Wiz 4x Cooler for LED-Wiz Another cooler for LED-Wiz Power Supply Mean Well 12V 12.5A 150W - looks like a big fake (logo says "MIW" instead of "MW") and already broke. Ordered this one instead. Mean Well 24V 6.5A 150W - sais "MIW" as well, let's hope it lasts longer. Force Feedback 7x Siemens contactors at 24V 2x Replay knockers from a very nice guy Relay for knockers Lights 5x 3W High Power RGB Led 5x Aluminium Heat Sinks 5x Flasher Domes Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Thermal Adhesive 4x Flash Strobe Light 5x Resistor - 33Ω 5 W 10x Resistor - 27Ω 5 W 5m RGB strip 4 channel relay board for RGB strips Electronics / Wiring 2x USB extension cables 2x Terminal Strips Some Solder 60m AWG18 wire in 11 colors 100x Female Disconnects (6.4x0.8mm) 100x Female Disconnects (4.8x0.8mm) 10x 4-Pin Male/Female connectors 10x 9-Pin Male/Female connectors 50x 500mA fast burning fuses 10x 10A slow burning fuses 10x 5A slow burning fuses 40x Fuse holders 20x 1N4148 Diotec Diode Misc. Cabinet Stuff Isolation duct tape Cable Tubes Some more cable tubes Slotted Wall Wire Duct Cable Straps Cable Strap Sockets So first of all I started drawing up plans and showing them to different people and after lots of discussions I ended up with something like this (click for PDF version): While drawing the plans, Google Sketchup was very useful since it allows to import the surfaces I was drawing, extrude them and virtually build the cabinet. This made me realize some errors I probably would have discovered only when trying to fit the wooden parts! I've also spent a lot of time figuring out how to wire stuff and how components work and which to order. Finally I came up with this plan (click for PDF): I'm probably going to bug maxxsinner again before really wiring it, but I've understood most principles and I'm quite sure this could work. So let's see the pics! I was very lucky to have a mate whose father in law is a carpenter, so he let us use his gear (and professional advice) for two days and we managed to finish the whole woodwork! So the next thing is the paint. Pictures will follow! Cheers, -freezy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Great start Freezy! Looking forward to more pics. Any theme in mind yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skewba98z28 Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Nice work dude, with that size of cabinet why not go the real dmd route? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Looks great freezy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share Posted August 1, 2012 There is one reason for one vertical screen and fake DMD: I'm on a budget. However, the speaker panel's DMD hole is already in the right size for a real one. Would just need to turn the monitor and add some bevel. Maybe a future extension Theme is not clear yet, need to do some brain storming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 3, 2012 Author Share Posted August 3, 2012 Decided on how to layout the drawer. Had to cut off the top of those copper heat conductors of the CPU cooler since otherwise the drawer wouldn't close. Still a very tight fit. Otherwise I've started wiring but didn't get very far. And the hardware still works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Ummmmm....not to rain on your parade, but won't the coolant in the heat pipes rain on your motherboard when that sucker really heats up? Just thinking out loud.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Ummmmm....not to rain on your parade, but won't the coolant in the heat pipes rain on your motherboard when that sucker really heats up?Just thinking out loud.... The coolant seems to be copper. Do you think it'll get liquid or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Heat pipes (those copper tubes) usually have a coolant in them that boils as it heats up and turns to gas. That gas rises to the top of the pipe, cools, condenses and returns to the bottom of the pipe to repeat the cycle. It's like an air-conditioner for your cpu. If it was going to spray, it probably would have by now, but keep an eye on your cpu temp until you are sure that it won't run away from you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 4, 2012 Author Share Posted August 4, 2012 Haven't had it running for a long time yet. I still got some thermal adhesive left, do you think glueing the top with it would help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted August 5, 2012 Share Posted August 5, 2012 Not sure, you could try. If there was anything in there, it may be gone by now. Try running it and watch the cpu temps to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 Doesn't look like there was already something "spraying out". I'll glue it up and watch the CPU temp next time I start the PC. Not very soon though, paint comes first now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Findus Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 You use the UE40ES7000, right? Have you decased it? What is the height of the display? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 You use the UE40ES7000, right? Have you decased it? What is the height of the display? Yep, decased, was easy as pie (just unscrew every visible screw and it comes off alone). Dimensions are 528mm x 915mm x 13mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollywdbri Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 There is one reason for one vertical screen and fake DMD: I'm on a budget. However, the speaker panel's DMD hole is already in the right size for a real one. Would just need to turn the monitor and add some bevel. Maybe a future extension Theme is not clear yet, need to do some brain storming. I'm looking to do a two screen setup just like you did. Are you running Future Pinball or Visual Pinball? Beautiful work here! Will be following your progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viriiguy Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Do NOT use that heatsink.... You have ruined it and it will NOT cool your CPU. Those copper pipes have a gas in them, as has been said.. Not usually, but ALWAYS!!! When you cut the top off those pipes, you ruined the heatsink. You cannot fix, you cannot patch it. You will have to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 Do NOT use that heatsink.... You have ruined it and it will NOT cool your CPU. Those copper pipes have a gas in them, as has been said.. Not usually, but ALWAYS!!!When you cut the top off those pipes, you ruined the heatsink. You cannot fix, you cannot patch it. You will have to replace it. I see. I'll just use the box cooler for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 I'm looking to do a two screen setup just like you did. Are you running Future Pinball or Visual Pinball? Beautiful work here! Will be following your progress! The photo shows VP, but I'm planning to run also FP and even pinball arcade if they manage to produce a PC version before the apocalypse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 All naked again, ready for paint! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 very nice - another 40" build - welcome to the club - I'm currently building a 40" P2K in another thread. I probably should upload some more pics as its been a few weeks since I last updated. I see you are using the creative T3 speakers. I have the same speakers connected to my cab but haven't worked out how to mount the base box due to the 3 speaker layout. I pulled the base module apart, only the front speaker is active the two side base speakers are passive (driven by the air movement of the active speaker). How are you intending to mount it? If you've got it working nicely I'd like to copy. I've currently got my base box sitting on the floor under the cab. Good luck with the rest of the build Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 First layer done: @mike1: Not sure I understand your problem. My base box a.k.a bass tube sits in the middle of the cabinet. There is one round hole where the front speaker goes out. The two satellites are screwed into the backbox so they won't move. I'll post photos when the paint job is done and everything mounted again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 I used those speakers in my last cab and my latest build and they are sweet. Had to turn the bass down as I thought I was going to rattle a window out Just mounted my sub in the middle of the cab with a 200 mm hole through the base panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freezy Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Yep, same here. 200mm fits smoothely Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 freezy, maxsinner, thanks for the info. I had concerns that with the sideways passive speakers firing internally in the cabinet it might create a muffled base sound inside the cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.