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Tiki Gods Pinball 46"/32"/DMD Widebody Build


zeenon

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Well, I figured I'd start a new topic for my build and get some much needed questions answered and post some pics.

- Cabinet

Widebody based on the popular Williams plans by Mameman.

Ultimate Cab-Builder's Kit (Widebody) ($400) LINK

-----Optional Parts: (although these are not needed the header makes for a quick disconnect if needed, and the coin mech adds another touch of realism)

-----13 Pin header for coin door ($1) LINK

-----Happ coin door mechs ($20 total) eBay but here is a LINK

Virtuapin Digital Plunger Kit ($140) LINK

Paradise Arcade Clear IL Translucent button with Rollie Leaf switches for flippers ($5 ea)

IL-lumination RGB LEDs for buttons ($2.75 ea)

Bally Launch Ball button -Yellow ($10)

Illuminated Reduced Footprint Pushbutton w/ Soft-touch switch (red,green,blue) ($2.25ea)

LED-Wiz™ 32-port USB Lighting and Output Controller ($45)

18 gauge wire (red, green, blue, black)

- PC Setup

Windows 7 64-Bit

Intel Core I5-3570K

ASUS P8Z77-VLK ATX Motherboard

Crucial 8GB 1600 RAM (2x 4GB sicks)

EVGA GTX660SC 2GB PCIE Video Card

Thermaltake TR2 700W ATX Power Supply

Medialink Wireless Adapter ($20)

- Screens

46" Playfield: Samsung UN46ES6003 Super Thin LED LCD 1080P ($640) Amazon Warehouse deals

Decasing here

32" Backfield: Samsung UN32EH5000 1080p 60Hz LED HDTV ($280) Amazon Warehouse deals

Vishay LEE-128G032B Orange LED DMD w/ PinDMD2 ($355)

KK-156 (76650-0096) Molex connector for DMD ($3) LINK

- Sound

2 - Pyramid 4" dual cone 100W speakers #409G

Infinity 10" Subwoofer ($50)

Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2x40W amplifier

Boss 400W 4 Channel Amp #CE404

- Lighting

- 5x Cree LED MCPCB STAR 3LED RD/GN/BLU ($12 ea) LINK

- 5x STARBOARD HEATSINK 2.88C/W 1" ($3 ea)LINK

- 2 x 22 LED white car Flash Strobe Emergency Light 12V ($14) LINK

- Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Thermal Adhesive (for LED heatsinks) LINK

- Cooling

5x Cooler Master 120mm R4 Computer Case Fan (R4-C2R-20AC-GP) $7.50ea Amazon

5x 120mm chrome fan grills $3ea Amazon

- Misc Toys

Zeb's Virtual Output Kit ($300) LINK

Zeb's Shaker/Gear Motor Combo ($135) LINK

Thermaltake TR-700 700W power supply for VOP ($)

ATX Motherboard Tray - Black $32 Performance PCs

Smart Strip LCG3 ($30)

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So I have been playing around with HyperPin for the last 3 weeks, and it really sucked me into build a widebody cab. I have a mame cab with pinball but it's just not the same.

With HyperPin setup I have about 20 FS tables and running UltraVP for the backglass. Now shortly I will have a pinDMD2 and Vishay DMD. What do I need to start downloading to get this to work? I see a ton of these B2S FS cabs is that what I need instead of the UltraVP?

Z

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Yes, B2S is the replacement for UVP. Both programs were designed to animate the backglass, so you don't have a boring static image. UVP is a resource hog and is not recommended for use anymore.

As for the pindmd, it should include instructions on how to get it working. I think you simply replace a dll, but I'm not 100% sure as I do not have one.

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So I have been playing around with HyperPin for the last 3 weeks, and it really sucked me into build a widebody cab. I have a mame cab with pinball but it's just not the same.

With HyperPin setup I have about 20 FS tables and running UltraVP for the backglass. Now shortly I will have a pinDMD2 and Vishay DMD. What do I need to start downloading to get this to work? I see a ton of these B2S FS cabs is that what I need instead of the UltraVP?

Z

Based on the sentence I bolded it sounds like you are about to make the same mistake I did. I found all the B2S cabinet files and started downloading them and couldn't get things working. The easier way is you goto VPForums.org → Visual Pinball → Animated Backglasses → dB2S Animated Backglasses and grab the files for the table you want from the forum. This way you are using directB2S instead of B2S. With this method you would first have gone to VPForums.org → Visual Pinball → Animated Backglasses → dB2S Player Discussion and look at the pinned post for Installation info. You basically get a server running and you change one line of code in the VBS script for your existing table to get the dB2S backglass running. So you don't need to re-download all the tables that you already have...you just add the dB2S backglass file into the same folder as your table, edit your existing table script, and make sure you have the server installed per the instructions.

Good Luck,

Gil

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Thanks for the info Gilrock, Ton, & DeeGor!!!!

So I have the process down for UVP --look for Set Controller = CreateObject("VPinMAME.Controller") and comment it out with a '. Next add this line in it's place Set Controller = CreateObject("UltraVP.BackglassServ")

(this is old and I will start cutting over to the below)

Now for B2S I extracted the B2S server files into the tables dir and setup the server. I go into the table scripts and change Set Controller = CreateObject("VPinMAME.Controller") to 'Set Controller = CreateObject("VPinMAME.Controller") and add the following Set Controller=CreateObject("B2S.Server")

(I d/led a new Scared Stiff BS2 table changed the line and it worked)

So do I keep my original FS tables and just download the directB2S file now, instead of the FS B2S tables? I think I confused myself by downloading the FS B2S tables when all I needed to do was change the line in the table scripts of my original tables and add the directB2S file in the same dir. What are the FS B2S tables for? Sounds like it is the older method (UVP is like VHS, B2S is like DVD, and directB2S is BlueRay)

Z

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Couple questions:

1) What is the voltage needed for the Williams/Bally coin door lamps?

2) I could really use a recommendation on a backfield monitor? The Amazon warehouse deal on the 46" was a great find so I'm hoping to find something cheap from the warehouse. Most of the model numbers I plugged in from other tables are over $350.

Z

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They are 6 volt. If you are using 12v LED lamps for your buttons then you could just switch those out as well. Less wiring and better looks.

What size monitor do you want? A 27" LED computer monitor is around $199 and looks great as well as functions better because of the auto turn on.

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Looks great!! You may want to consider the SSD now. It will help with the load times and you can beat on the cab without worrying.

Just wondering if anyone has cloned a SATA drive to a SSD in Win7? I've used Clonezilla to backup my mame (and these) to images, so I'm wondering if it's a straight clone or do I need to do something funky with the SSD?

Z

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scottpe,

I see you used a Samsung UN32EH4003. Does the 720p make a difference? Looks like these are about $200.

shakenbake,

Thanks for the info on the lamps. I had some red 12V lamps left over from my mame project that I just plugged in after your response. These JUST fit inside the button hole, but I'll have to monitor them (see warning on package):

DSCN0975_resize.JPG

Z

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scottpe,I see you used a Samsung UN32EH4003. Does the 720p make a difference? Looks like these are about $200.

It's actually 1366x768, so a bit more than 720P when connected to a computer. It works great. I think you'd be hard pressed to tell a difference between this and a full 1080P screen when displaying backglasses...

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Just to verify this is the way to mount the legs on a widebody:

If you are using the Williams steel brackets the way they work is on the front they fit hard against the bottom with the bolts furthest from the bottom. On the back again hard against the bottom but with the brackets rotated so the bolts are closer to the bottom.

Z

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post-220-142870589344_thumb.jpg

This is what I used for my legs. I guess for a true wide body the brackets aren't truly on the bottom of the cab. I can get you measurements from the cabinet front and back if you would like on the inside for the metal brackets.

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[ATTACH=CONFIG]26620[/ATTACH]This is what I used for my legs. I guess for a true wide body the brackets aren't truly on the bottom of the cab. I can get you measurements from the cabinet front and back if you would like on the inside for the metal brackets.

I just measured mine (brackets at the bottom of the cab) and they are almost exactly 2 cm lower than those dimensions pictured in both the front and back. 2 cm is a pretty insignificant difference, so for simplicity I'd say just put them at the bottom of the cab and be done.

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I need some advice on sound which is probably my weakest area. I currently have 2 4" pyramid speakers 100w and a 10" subwoofer 1000w from another project gathering dust. It's a waste to go out and buy a 2.1 computer speaker setup. What do I need to interface these with a computer? I'm assuming an amp but looking at all the choices I'm lost (a link would be helpful) I also have a 12v ps similiar to the 24v everyone is using on there cabs.

Z

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2 - sheets of 4x8 oak to start with:

DSCN0976_resize.JPG

As seen on other posts I bought a set of metal guides since I was using a circular saw for 98% of the cuts:

DSCN0978_resize.JPG

First side cut:

DSCN0979_resize.JPG

Ahhh the finished product. I just wanted to see what I was dealing with so I dry fit all the pieces.

DSCN0982_resize.JPG

DSCN0983_resize.JPG

Z

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