Tiki Gods Pinball 46"/32"/DMD Widebody Build

[zeenon]

Bottom part of the cab coming along, slot for the play field cut, leg holes made, and slots for biscuits cut.

The one question I have is, the lock down bar mech, when attaching to the front panel do I let it hang off the lock down bar and screw it down OR push the mech up and screw it down? It looks like there is ~3/16" of play and I see 2 brass screws on the top which I'm assuming is to adjust the bar once in place?

I think this is a matter of personal preference but should the top bolt on the coin door go through the lock down mech? (see pic)

Z

[mameman]

It's best to mount the lockbar receiver once the glass rails, side rails and glass are in place. Connect the receiver and lockbar and then screw the receiver in place once its mounted. This way you get the correct depth.

[zeenon]

Cutting the holes in this cab was a breeze with scottpe advice on the circle jig (see scottpe Star Wars build). Never owned one before but it was invaluable.

Coin door. What a PITA, why are there notches on the left side....anyway.....used a jigsaw to rough cut then routed around for a clean line.

I used this router bit to make the holes for the leg bolts after hearing the pains everyone was experiencing (before gluing the cab together):

I bought a biscuit joiner during my MAME project so I figured I would bypass most of the screws and use biscuits and gorilla glue:

For added strength (although the biscuits and glue were solid) I tacked down some 1" x 2" with screws on the bottom left/right:

DMD panel

The speaker looks like it's not centered in this pic, but it is. The film is also still on the plexi.

I have to say, scottpe's build is a great tutorial for those wanted to build a cab. (notice any similarities?) Between scott's and bill55 builds you have a ton of build pics. (BTW Scott we need more pics, I'm almost finished with the first chapter )

Couple spots here and there I touched up with Bondo.

Z

[scottpe]

Looking great zeenon! You did a nice job on the woodworking and recessing all the holes for the various parts.

Glad my build thread has been helpful. I don't claim that the way I did any of it is the 'best' way, but I got it done. For better or worse I wanted to show my approach to things for others to learn from and improve upon.

I've go more pics to post. Hoping to be able to do that by next weekend.

Keep up the good work!

[zeenon]

Ok, while the paint is drying I figured I'd screw around with the amp/sub/speakers and it's not going as good as I hoped.

So I play a song via iTunes and hear music out of both the sub and speaker but nothing thunderous (in fact I don't think it would even scare an ant away)

I have the sub connected to CH4+ and CH3- and only one 4" speaker connected to CH2.

So these are the cables I have. The other end not pictured is a 3.5 connector going to speaker out on the sound card.

I figure something is not hooked up right?

Z

[Ton]

You have to use 2 outputs on your soundcard and NOT devide 1 output into 2 inputs into your amp.

In other words you have to have 2 cables with on 1 end a 3.5 connector going into the soundcard and on the other end a red and white tulip going into you amp.

[zeenon]

Ok I rewired to look like the attached diagram and still no go. I'm using the on board Realtek sound and a quick search on Google shows horror stories with it so I just ordered a SB card to try.

Oddly enough the Realtek config program outputs the correct audio when doing a test (L/R and sub) but no other video or audio (itunes/media player/vlc) outputs to the sub (and I'm not the only one with this issue )

Updated 07/08/2013 - I originally had a Boss 4CH amp but I just could not get it to work right. I knew the speakers would blow the doors off the cabinet but I was just not getting the right sound for what ever reason. I then picked up a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2x40W amplifier and OMG what a difference. The sound is so crisp and in your face, I've scrapped the idea of installing contactors and a knocker in the cabinet.

Z

[shakenbake]

The way you first had it should have worked. There is nothing wrong with splitting the signal off of the headphone output with that short of cable run. It sounds to mr that there may be a problem with your amplifier. Make sure the amp is in bridged mode for the sub channels and the gains are at about 60%. Your iPod should put out a good signal directly to the amplifier.

[Gilrock]

You can split one output from a sound card cause that's exactly what I'm doing. My sound card is the Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD and you cannot run two outputs from this card at once. If you plug into the headphone output the RCA outputs shut off. And the other set of outputs are optical which I could not utilize. So I used a splitter cable to run the left and right outputs into two input channels on my amp. The amp has a built in cross-over which provides a low-pass filter to the subwoofer channel and a high pass filter to the small speaker channels.

Gil

[zeenon]

Write up pending...............

Flipper placement: 3 1/8" from front edge, 2 5/16" down, 1 3/4" center to center.

[scottpe]

Looking great Z! You just need to drop some contactors in there to finish up the toy collection! You've already got everything else you need to make them work...

[russdx]

nice

we need some videos

[zeenon]

I had a heck of a time setting up the exit function on the virtuapin plunger. I would get the HP exit menu AND the VP exit menu at the same time, then if I got that working I couldn't exit out of HP itself. This issue was bothering me because I had to have the keyboard out all the time in order to exit the tables clean. Now I can go in and out of VP and FP with no issues or crashes. I'm in the process of mounting the backglass then I'll take some videos. Here are my settings for the VirtuaPin plunger/encoder setup for VP/FP:

[size=2][Main]
Version             = 0.5.0.0
Starting_Genre      = All Games

[Video]
Playfield_Monitor   = Primary
Playfield_Rotation  = 270
Backglass_Monitor   = Secondary
Quality             = BEST
Table_Video_Enabled = true
Table_Video_Offset  = 50
Use_Backglass       = true
Backglass_Image_x   = 0
Backglass_Image_y   = 0
Backglass_Image_w   = 1280
Backglass_Image_h   = 1024
Backglass_Image_r   = 0
Backglass_Delay     = .1


[Future Pinball]
Show_Games          = true
Exe                 = Future Pinball.exe
Path                = D:\Future Pinball\
Table_Path          = D:\Future Pinball\Tables\
Table_Video_Path    = D:\HyperPin\Media\Future Pinball\Table Videos\
Table_Image_Path    = D:\HyperPin\Media\Future Pinball\Table Images\
Backglass_Image_Path= D:\HyperPin\Media\Future Pinball\Backglass Images\



[Visual Pinball]
Show_Games          = true
Path                = D:\VPinball\
Table_Path          = D:\VPinball\Tables\
Table_Video_Path    = D:\HyperPin\Media\Visual Pinball\Table Videos\
Table_Image_Path    = D:\HyperPin\Media\Visual Pinball\Table Images\
Backglass_Image_Path= D:\HyperPin\Media\Visual Pinball\Backglass Images\
Exe                 = VPinball.exe

[Wheel]
Speed               = low
Text_Font           = Style2
Text_Stroke_Size    = 5
Text_Stroke_Color   = 0x000000
Text_Color1         = 0xe10008
Text_Color2         = 0xFFFFFF
Text_Color3         = 0xe10008
Color_Ratio         = 100
Shadow_Distance     = 0
Shadow_Angle        = 45
Shadow_Color        = 0x000000
Shadow_Alpha        = 1
Shadow_Blur         = 0

[intro Video]
Use_Intro           = false
Skip_On_Keypress    = false


[sound]
Master_Volume       = 100
Video_Volume        = 100
Sound_FX_Volume     = 50
Wheel_Sound_Volume  = 75

[AttractMode]
Active              = true
Time                = 60
MaxSpinTime         = 5

[Press Start Text]
Enabled             = true
Text1               = Free Play
Text2               = Press Start
Color               = 0xe10008

[Keyboard]
Key_Delay           = false
Start               = 13
Exit                = 69
Up                  = 150
Down                = 149
SkipUp              = 191
SkipDown            = 90
Flyer               = 70
Instruction         = 73
Genre               = 71
Service             = 9


[Pinball Wizard]
Joy                 = 0
Start               = 9
Exit                = 8
Up                  = 2
Down                = 10
SkipUp              = 3
SkipDown            = 11
Flyer               = 4
Insruction          = 5
Genre               = 7
Service             = 15

[Flyer]
BottomX             = 300
CenterY             = 360

[instruction]
Width               = 600
BottomX             = 250
CenterY             = 360

[Exit]
Enable_Exit_Screen  = true
Exit_HyperPin       = true
Shutdown            = false
Enable_Shortcut     = true
Shortcut_Action     = exit
Shortcut_Time       = 3


[startup Program]
Executable          = D:\HyperPin\ledset.bat
Parameters          =
Working_Directory   =
WinState            = HIDDEN

[Exit Program]
Executable          = D:\HyperPin\ledoff.bat
Parameters          =
Working_Directory   =
WinState            = NORMAL

[FPLaunch]
exitScriptKey=q & s
exitKey=Joy8
exitKey1=p
enterKey=1
enterKey1=Joy9
upKey=LShift
upKey1=Joy10
downKey=RShift
downKey1=Joy2
toggleCursorKey=t
hideCursor=true
hideDesktop=true
hideTaskbar=true
useLoadingScreen=true
useExitScreen=true
useExitAsPause=true
useExitMenu=true
fadespeed=25
pauseFPKey=RButton
saveFPTables=true
editTableKey=!F4
printScreenKey=o
printBGKey=u
pfScreenNum=1
bgScreenNum=2
flyerKey=f
instructionsKey=i
hyperScale=0.75
debugMode=file
ledwiz=true
toggleLedwizKey=1
hyperpinexe=hyperpin.exe
focusSleep=500
useFocus=both
[LastLoad]
system=Future Pinball
table=Spiderman (Stern 2007) RL 2.0[/size]

[zeenon]

[mikekim]

looking good..

quick question.. of the fp tables loading.. (ie iron man) did you change any settings in fp to not display the loading screen, so the cab only displays the rendering table graphic until loaded?

[zeenon]

mikekim,

I could be wrong but I think that is a function of FPlaunch WIP 10. I don't remember changing any setting in FP but I've added SO many little addons to VP/FP.

Z

[mikekim]

thanks, i'll check it out

[zeenon]

Anyone familiar on how to wire this up to a virtuapin controller?

Z

[mameman]

Pretty simple. Common ground and then a wire to each input for your ipac. There maybe a diagram on my old Big Bang bar thread, but with a multimeter it only takes a couple seconds to work out the wires.

[vulbas]

verry good job

you can remove the real dmd in alphanumeric and mechanic tables.

Go with regedit to: HKEY_CURRENT_USER \ Software \ Freeware \ Visual PinMAME \ hs_l4 (name of rom) (hs_l4 is an example) and change from one into showpindmd 0.

[zeenon]

Added Pinball FX2/Steam to the cabinet. Although I'm still on the fence with having these I'll keep them on for a little while (at least until they come out with support for the PinDMD then I'll make a final call).

The instructions on vpforums for adding FX2 to HP work great and Steam was selling all of the DLC for 50% off so that made the decision to try it a little bit easier.

They are a little too cartoon-ish for me. I can sometimes trick myself with the VP tables into thinking it's real, but the FX2 tables are all animation. Nevertheless I'm sure they will get played more then the VP/FP tables when people are over.

Z

[zeenon]

Added labels. I know what the buttons do but at parties I think people need a little help. First one is my MAME cab second is pin cab.

Z

[zeenon]

So it's been about 3 months since I finished my cab and I decided to open her up and install 8 contactors and a replay knocker.

This is MY take on the two types of contactors I used.

Siemens 3RT1016-1BB41

- Perfect size even though there is plenty of room in a WB cab.

- 24V

- Used for flipper feedback in my cab

- Could be a little louder, but I like the fact they are quieter than the AB's below.

- Fast!!

Note: Some of the contactors on ebay come with an aux connector and diode piggy backed on the contactor as shown below. 1)You don't need the aux connector. It disconnects from the contactor by pushing a tab on the side. 2) If you are using Zebs VOB you don't need the diode either, since it is built on the VOB.

Allen Bradley Contactor 100-A09NZ*3

- These are much longer then the Siemens contactors

- 24V

- Used for sling shot (x2) and bumpers (x4)

- Loud but I like the fact they sound different then the Siemens

- I do think they are much slower then the Siemens

6 contactors shown in pic. #7 is behind the sub woofer and #8 is up behind the LED bar.

Z

[mikekim]

nice work

[kizam33]

Great build!! Is that your replay knocker in your backbox? Does it sound better up there?

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