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JaronSenna

Unnamed (yet) pin: 46"/27"/DMD Widebody

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Not an update, but a question this time: I will be travelling to New York soon and I wonder if it would be possible to obtain the parts for the shaker motor there somewhere? I cannot seem to find the proper parts easily at home.

I am specifically looking for these parts that Bill55 links to in his build (or similar parts) as I have gotten a pittman motor as well:

V5/8B 5/8" BORE HUB

0.25 SOLID SHAFT COLLAR

And while I am there, anything else you advise getting or visiting? ;-)

Finally one other question: I have access to a few old "parallel ports" connectors, I am thinking about using those to connect cables running to and from the backbox. I plan to have a few3W RGB led's on top of the backbox (not cree's). Would those connectors be able to stand the power/currents?

Edited by JaronSenna

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I am specifically looking for these parts that Bill55 links to in his build (or similar parts) as I have gotten a pittman motor as well:

V5/8B 5/8" BORE HUB

0.25 SOLID SHAFT COLLAR

Finally one other question: I have access to a few old "parallel ports" connectors, I am thinking about using those to connect cables running to and from the backbox. I plan to have a few3W RGB led's on top of the backbox (not cree's). Would those connectors be able to stand the power/currents?

Why not just order those parts from the links?

the specs on parallel ports I have seen show they can well handle the current. However, I recommend you purchase an ATX extension cable and cut it in half to make a jack. It's a lot easier than soldering up the port (I know, I started down that same path).

-Matt

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I can't order those parts from there, since they don't ship to europe (the "Springfield" in my location refers to the place where the Simpsons live, not where my actual house is :-) ) Hence I asked if I could get it anywhere in Manhattan/New York if I am there next week.

About that ATX extention cable: good idea, I''ll have a look at that route!

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Slow on progress last few weeks as work had the habit of taking over almost all my spare time. A little bit of progress was made though: I added the legs, so the machine stands on its own, which looks wicked cool! Somehow it seems to be a milestone for me in this project. Pics come later.

Next up: mounting the PC on the tray.

Question though: does a motherboard need to be mounted on a metal tray, for grounding or something? Or could I directly mount the mountpoints to the MDF board? If the later is an option it saves me from finding or making a PC tray.

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You cannot mount the motherboard directly to the MDF board.

If you are not using a motherboardtray you should use some spacers like these

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Ton, yes I have such spacers, but I wonder if it is better/necessary if all the mountpoints should be electrically connected to each other (for example so provide a ground plane or something?), but I guess not then :-)

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Ok, I am going shopping to prepare for mounting and wiring the ledwiz and zebulon's booster boards, and I run into something I am not quite sure of:

I bought these RGB leds off ebay to use as flahsers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-3W-High-Power-RGB-Led-6-Pins-Full-Color-1W-New-/330700235638

I plan to use 5 inside the cab at the top of the playfield, and another five on top of the backbox.

Am I right when I assume that:

- for each led, I can connect all the + pads together and run one 12V line into them?

- Then, use 3 separate lines to each run from the "-" pads to a separate "port" on the booster board? One for red, green and blue. Each with the proper resistor soldered inline.

And in general, the + is connected directly to the forcefeedback items, while the - side connects to the booster board?

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Ok, I am going shopping to prepare for mounting and wiring the ledwiz and zebulon's booster boards, and I run into something I am not quite sure of:

I bought these RGB leds off ebay to use as flahsers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-3W-High-Power-RGB-Led-6-Pins-Full-Color-1W-New-/330700235638

I plan to use 5 inside the cab at the top of the playfield, and another five on top of the backbox.

Am I right when I assume that:

- for each led, I can connect all the + pads together and run one 12V line into them?

- Then, use 3 separate lines to each run from the "-" pads to a separate "port" on the booster board? One for red, green and blue. Each with the proper resistor soldered inline.

And in general, the + is connected directly to the forcefeedback items, while the - side connects to the booster board?

Correct.

Sent from my mind, using the psychic friends network..

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Correct.

Sent from my mind, using the psychic friends network..

Thanks Mike. One more though: if I use (for example) ports 1, 2 and 3 on the ledwiz/booster for RGB of the left flasher in the cab, I can hookup the backbox flasher to those same ports right? That way they both flash the same color at the same time. And it would not exceed the load the booster board can deliver. Correct again? :-)

I am fairly new to the electronics part of this, so I *really* don't want to mess things up :-)

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Thanks Mike. One more though: if I use (for example) ports 1, 2 and 3 on the ledwiz/booster for RGB of the left flasher in the cab, I can hookup the backbox flasher to those same ports right? That way they both flash the same color at the same time. And it would not exceed the load the booster board can deliver. Correct again? :-)

I am fairly new to the electronics part of this, so I *really* don't want to mess things up :-)

yes, you can.

that is how everyone else are connecting their flashers that are running multiple sets

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Ok, so onto the resistors, which I don't understand yet. I calculated the resistor values based on the info on the ebay page:

Forward voltage: 2.2-2.8 (red), 3.0-3.8 (green and blue)

Forward current: 350 mA

so with a 12 VDC supply voltage that means:

Red: 27-30 Ohm

Green: 24-27 Ohm

Blue: 24-27 Ohm

However, I then tried to calculate the wattage needed for the resistors (I had some 1/4W resistors with the proper values, but they because very hot very quickly ;-)

Here's my calculation:

First determine current through the resistor:

I=E/R

I=12V/30 Ohm = 0.4A or 400 mA

Then deterime power:

P=I X E

P=.4 x 12 = 4.8W

Is that right? It seems rather high to me? I checked a few sites and found 5W, 27Ohm resistors for just under 1 Euro a piece, which means adding another 30 quid to the bill :-)

Did I mess up the calculations somewhere?

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Nope you haven't messed up the calculations, the 5w 27ohm resistors are correct.

I got mine from ebay. Sold in lots of 10.

They should be listed on my parts list... £3.39 for a pack of 10..

Sent from my mind, using the psychic friends network..

Edited by mikekim

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Ah excellent tip, thanks Mikekim, just ordered 30 from the same link. I will keep a closer eye on your build thread, it looks awesome!

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Ah excellent tip, thanks Mikekim, just ordered 30 from the same link. I will keep a closer eye on your build thread, it looks awesome!

I haven't really had time to work on it much lately, but have picked up some cool bits to add a bit of "bling" to the build.

There should hopefully be an update over the weekend, with new photos. (Also got russ coming over on friday to look at my DMD issue. + he's bringing a pindmd2 to try on my display :D )

Sent from my mind, using the psychic friends network..

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It is alive! Well, sort-of: once I had mounted the PC to the drawer, I could not resist hooking up the screens and DMD and see if it would all run.

Sorry for the crappy quality vertical (yuk) video, but still... it feels like an accomplishment :-)

Now, the hardest part will be to dismantle the thing and get to wiring :-)

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It is alive! Well, sort-of: once I had mounted the PC to the drawer, I could not resist hooking up the screens and DMD and see if it would all run.

Sorry for the crappy quality vertical (yuk) video, but still... it feels like an accomplishment :-)

Now, the hardest part will be to dismantle the thing and get to wiring :-)

Looking good :beer:

Sent from my mind, using the psychic friends network..

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Looking good Jaron.

It's so awesome when you first bring it online and it's playable. Just don't fall into the trap I did where you stop building and start playing all the time. ;)

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Haha, DeeGor that is exactly what I realised as soon as I drained my first ball. So far I have put only 2 tables in Hyperspin, and will not any more until I have the thing wired :-) But this is finally the point where I can start seeing the project through all the way to the end :-)

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DeeGor, I could not resist and hooked up the screens and the PC over Xmas and New Year and had some friends over and play some Medieval Madness and T2. What an amazing feeling to be able to play pinball in my own home (I know its not the real thing, but it sure feels like it). Especially since I have no easy access to any pinball machine close at my home.

Then onto wiring and wow, what a job is wiring... I am high on solder fumes from adding connectors here and there to make the PC tray (with ipac and ledwiz) detachable from the rest of the cabinet. And while doing that I am starting to understand what I read from others about their wiring OCD. I think I have that too: all wires need to be neat, tidy, parallel, correct length, preferrably invisible :-)

post-28373-142870583284_thumb.jpg

Also managed to solder an audio cable to the headphone plug and play with the switching so that all noise-making bling and the speaker set, will be switched off automatically and switched back on once the headphone jack is unplugged. There are two switches on the headphone plug in this picture: each set of three tabbed metal tabs are 1 switch (COM, NO, NC).

post-28373-142870583277_thumb.jpg

And, I spent almost a full day making this LED flasher board :-) I may not be quick, but at least I learned how to do it!

post-28373-14287058328_thumb.jpg

I have a question about grounding though: What is the best way to ground the various components? As I understand it, all grounds should be connected to each other, but I guess you need to keep DC and AC ground separated?

post-28373-142870583274_thumb.jpg

post-28373-142870583282_thumb.jpg

Edited by JaronSenna

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*removed* (sorry, I apparently have a post ready for moderation where I thought I had done something wrong as a reason why my new post is not showing. I will await approval from the mods :-) )

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I have a question about grounding though: What is the best way to ground the various components? As I understand it, all grounds should be connected to each other, but I guess you need to keep DC and AC ground separated?

You should have a seperate negative or common for all of your DC devices going back to to power supply, star point if you have multiple power supplies or ledwiz output.

Your AC ground (I assume your meaning protective ground/earth cable) should not be connected to any of your DC parts.

There should be in most cases a connection between the AC earth cable and the DC negative on your power supply so that if a DC positive wire hits any exposed metal thats earthed, the short circuit protection on your DC power supply should kick in. If it's not connected internally in the power supply (some dont so that there is no circuit to earth for safety systems, etc) it's not needed unless you want it.

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Yeah, I read the starpoint configuration in the Pinball Electrical 101 and I connected all the GND from power supplies and devices to a terminal strip. I only have to find a way to connect the GND from the PC PSU to it.

On another note:

I am glad I read the advise in the Pinball Electrical 101 to use different color wires, it quickly becomes a(n even bigger) mess otherwise. I used the following scheme:

Inputs (buttons to ipac):

- black 24 AWG for GND (daisy chained)

- grey 24 AWG for each button.

Outputs:

- Used a thicker (21 AWG I think) wire for 12V, Purple color

- Used a thinner (24 AWG?) wire for 5V, Orange color

- Black for GND/Common, except for RGB flashers

- For RGB LED flashers I use Red, Green and Blue for connecting the commons from the LED to the booster boards.

- connections between ledwiz and booster boards: white

I originally started with the idea to use PSU compatible colors: 5V= Yellow, 12V= Red, but I did not have enough red, and I would not be able to determine the RGB commons, hence the choice to use purple and orange. Plus, I still had quite a lot of those colors.

Edited by JaronSenna

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