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Aimtrak diy recoil kit released!!


gstav

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glad to hear that you got it working. Looking forward to see your videos/pics :D

What do you guys think about this:

Would it be possibe to put the Solenoid kit + AimTrak Light Gun OEM in a NAMCO gun, and solder the NAMCO solenoid to the PCB instead?

I don't see why it would not work as they both runs on the same voltage, or have I missed something?

Would be awesome (, and pricey) :D

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I'll post some later this week as soon as I get the components for the second gun. I have one gun assembled and working but had to order another shell and components for the other one that I botched. Waiting for them to arrive. I wanted to show the solenoid working with the shell open along with the innards so I'm going to do video/pics while assembling the other.

Not sure what happened to Jumpstile, I think he had ordered them as well and was going to post but I haven't seen anything.

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Some quick pics and video sample.

post-27999-142870580886_thumb.jpg

The guts. You'll want small power power wires going into the PCB board to be able to get it through the holes in the board. Larger gauge single color wire for the outside of the gun. This is an extra step which is kind of a pain but looks better. For the cord going to the power supply along with the USB on the outside of the gun I've initially used wire ties to wrap them together since I didn't like any of the cable tubing. I will probably just go to black duct tape to wrap both cords together.

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Everything is really cramped on the inside. It's a bit tricky to move the wires to from the IR sensor to the red buttons out of the way of the solenoid without wearing the ultra thin wires out at the solder point and breaking the connection.

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Different view of the guts. If you have an old style sensor like mine the gray is the ground going into the main trigger PCB and the Orange is for the trigger. The last connection is the super small wire that goes from recoil in the PCB to the last (5th) slot in white connector on IR sensor.

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9 things to solder total. 2 wires from the solenoid. 2 wires from the IR sensor (orange/gray for me). 2 small power wires to the PCB and then the 2 on the other end to larger wire right before exiting the gun. 1 small black wire for recoil, the other end just pushes into 5th slot on the white connector on the IR sensor.

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It isn't exactly throwing the gun back but it's a nice little snap and definitely adds to the affect of firing. It also repeats fairly fast. Be forewarned that I tried a 20v rather than 24v power supply (the instructions say 20-36v is acceptable) and it was slower/weaker. I couldn't find a good cheap power supply above 24v so I'm not sure if you'd get a better kick from that.

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No it's pulled all the way. The gun shell isn't designed to move separately, it's all one piece. The solenoid just retracts and released to make a small recoil effect. It's not throwing the gun back in your hand with great force but it's a decent click.

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20v power supply test

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This video shows the inside of the AimTrak with the solenoid firing off of a 20v power supply. As you can see it doesn't fire as quickly and misses occasionally. I wouldn't use this low of power supply.

24v power supply test

jQDr_ToQRXg

This video shows the inside of the AimTrak with the solenoid firing off of a 24v power supply. It gives a pretty snappy consistent kick, it's passable.

36v power supply test

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This video shows the inside of the AimTrak with the solenoid firing off of a 36v power supply. This is noticeably stronger than the 20v or 24v and the one I prefer by far.

I would definitely go with a 36v power supply.

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Yeah, the 24v give a decent snap and it repeats very reliably. I wouldn't go with a 20v supply. I bought a couple 36v power supplies to test and they should be here mid-week. I'll post a video for reference. The amperage is lower so I'm not sure how they will perform. My 24v supply is 5amp and the 36v supplies are 1.7amp.

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How hot is the coil getting? The same coils are used in pinballs machines are do get warm/hot pretty quick.

And if your firing circuit "locks on" - that coil WILL go thermo-nuclear in a very short time, I hope you put a fuse on it - as it'll melt that housing quickly. I've got burn spots on the inside of two of my pinball machines from where coils "locked on" (the controlling transistor failed basically) and got hot enough to fill the entire pinball machine with smoke. Took about an hour for the coil to cool down enough to where I could touch it.

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  • 2 months later...

That might be showing the price of shipping to me as I am based in Australia. I don't know, I pulled the link directly from my ebay account. I thought that was reasonable for getting from Nebraska to here. The recoil doesn't shift the barrel, but I don't want to go for the DIY option so that's what you pay for convenience I guess. I was just hoping they were a member here so they might feel like a discount. Having said that, these look like custom jobs as they don't sell the guns with recoil kits installed do they?

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The same seller can be found on the American eBay site and it costs $22 to ship to the states for two guns. Not bad at all. Btw, I think that is the same seller who operates www.arcadeguns.com. That's where I got my already assembled Aimtrak red/blue gun combo from a couple years ago. They do a great job putting them together, you'd think they came assembled to begin with.

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