Jump to content
Download Section Back Up, Navigate the Right Hand Menu to find files, ignore the 0s

Aimtrak diy recoil kit released!!


gstav

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I like the circuit, I wonder if it can will be sold without the solenoid as I already have a recoil mech I want to power to move a slide back and forth.

(I was slowly working a circuit out myself but this would be easier!!!)

Pedal = I'd be tempted to keep an eye out in the gaming shops and ebay for either a secondhand light gun pedal or a Guitar Hero/Rock band pedal (I got one on ebay few a couple of quid). They normally come with a 3.5mm jack connection (mono headphone I think??) so either cut it off and hard wire, or by a socket and mount it into the gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had considered using an existing gaming pedal and fixing this to the gun via the jack method.

For some reason, I am drawn to buying a couple of industrial pedals off eBay (they are like £4 from Hong Kong), making sure they are momentary switches and then wiring them in as a button through the iPad and mapping this to right control in the emulator.

I also have massive feet so an existing gaming pedal may be a bit small, lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read the fine print - the recoil "add on" is $29, and REQUIRES a new housing with new mounting points for the recoil kit ($14).

So now the price of a gun with recoil is almost $150, probably more with shipping. Probably still the best option out there, but damn.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mrfmund

I really like that idea!! If you don't mind I may look into that myself as the 'home console' and "light gun" pedals are a bit wimpy. Good thinking.

Hey, no worries - this is the sort of pedal I was talking about:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CFS-01-Foot-Switch-Momentary-Power-Pedal-FootSwitch-1NO-1NC-10A-w-900mm-Cord-/290619799233?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item43aa4a36c1#ht_4360wt_1111

I know time crisis has an industrial metal kick plate - it could be possible to get a small sheet from a DIY store and mod one of these foot switches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Read the fine print - the recoil "add on" is $29, and REQUIRES a new housing with new mounting points for the recoil kit ($14).

So now the price of a gun with recoil is almost $150, probably more with shipping. Probably still the best option out there, but damn.

Wouldn't it be possible to buy the new shells, the recoil kit and aimtrak OEM electronics kit for $87 dollars in total? I don't know much about these things, so I could be wrong.

Light guns is one of the main reasons I am looking to start building arcade cabinets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wouldn't it be possible to buy the new shells, the recoil kit and aimtrak OEM electronics kit for $87 dollars in total? I don't know much about these things, so I could be wrong.

Light guns is one of the main reasons I am looking to start building arcade cabinets.

The "gun shells" are missing the trigger mechs - so you'd have to come up with those.

And the OEM internals are missing the pretty light bar housing. Not a big deal, but something to consider.

Now, if you're asking me if a trigger, spring, and a couple of buttons is worth $60... ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shells look to be near enough identical to ps1 gcon-45s - would it be within the realms of possibility to pick one of these up off eBay and gut the trigger mech?

Hopefully, ultimarc will update their product range and sell a gun that includes the recoil built in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shells look to be near enough identical to ps1 gcon-45s - would it be within the realms of possibility to pick one of these up off eBay and gut the trigger mech?

Hopefully, ultimarc will update their product range and sell a gun that includes the recoil built in.

Yes..yes you can...I need to purchase on of these "Recoil Kits" and see if they'll fit in the Guncon 2. If I do I'll post the mod.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just bought a recoil kit along with a new shell that has the lugs for the solenoid. I'll let you know how it works!! Been waiting for this!

- J*

Jumpstile

Have you had chance yet to set up the recoil kit? Would be very interested on hearing your verdict

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got mine on Thursday and have been attempting to get them working this weekend with no luck. IMO the PDF instructions aren't particularly clear on wiring if you have an older style sensor PCB. I've emailed Andy and hooked them up the way he recommended and the lightgun works but the solenoid doesn't fire. I haven't heard back from him on follow up emails.

I also believe the instructions are reversed on the power requirements, they say: 'You will need a power supply which can output 20-36 volts with a peak current of 5 amps'. Seems like it should be 20-36 amps and 5 volts which is what you'd get in a standard power supply. I've hooked mine up to the +5V/23amp out of a microATX power supply. Before I applied the firmware update it would kick the solenoid when I first turned on the power but not with a trigger pull. After updating the firmware the solenoid doesn't kick at all, either when first turning on the power or pulling the trigger.

I'll post an update if I get them working. Curious to hear if anyone else has them working, if they have an older sensor how they wired it and what they are using for power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The solenoid need 24v with the PEAK of 5amps. I did a recoil hack to my namco guns before ultimarc released the solenoid set. it's working the same way. I think you wired something wrong. If you had 25 amps flowing in the solenoid it's possible you destroyed it. The namco one needs 2 amps/24v and is way bigger ;)

you know you have to point at the screen for the solenoid to work? also, you should check the cal box next to "trigger" in the aimtrak software, at least I had to. click on the restore defaul cal or seomething like that to be sure.

also... the pdf is pretty clear about how to install the solenoid to the old pcb. you need to connect ground and p2 to the trigger pcb. p2 is a pretty small soldering point so you have to be carefull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The solenoid need 24v with the PEAK of 5amps. I did a recoil hack to my namco guns before ultimarc released the solenoid set. it's working the same way. I think you wired something wrong. If you had 25 amps flowing in the solenoid it's possible you destroyed it. The namco one needs 2 amps/24v and is way bigger ;)

So what type of power supply are you using then? Here is the psu i'm attempting to use:

http://cybersmackdown.com/sale_7704_470594059-A-Power-AK-420W-204-pin-mATX-PSU-w-SATA-PCIe-Black.htm

What type of standard power supply has a 24v out with a peak of 5 amps? Maybe I'm mistaken in trying to use a standard pc power supply?

you know you have to point at the screen for the solenoid to work? also, you should check the cal box next to "trigger" in the aimtrak software, at least I had to. click on the restore defaul cal or seomething like that to be sure.

Yes, this was not the issue. The lightgun sensor works fine and I was pointing at the screen when attempting to shoot.

also... the pdf is pretty clear about how to install the solenoid to the old pcb. you need to connect ground and p2 to the trigger pcb. p2 is a pretty small soldering point so you have to be carefull.

The PDF is clear if your old pcb looks like the one in the sample, mine doesn't. Even Andy didn't know how to wire it correctly and I've had to send him pictures as he said 'unfortunately the old ones were wired in different ways'. I've also double-checked all of the solder points.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What does yours look like? I know there are three options to wire the recoil: P2, P5 or the free pin on the white connector for the new pcb's.

I used a 24v 2a laptop power supply. Just like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-2A-LCD-Monitor-Printer-AC-DC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Cord-Charger-5-5mm-Tip-NEW-/110841088395?pt=Laptop_Adapters_Chargers&hash=item19cea4c98b

standart pc power supply has around 12v as far as I know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine has a white connector but also 2 2-pin connectors each with an Orange and Gray wire that come out the back from beside the USB hookup. One set went to the old trigger, one set goes to the Red button pcb. The white connector has a single black wire coming out of it that also goes to the secondary buttons pcb. According to Andy I should've just been able to connect the Orange wire to the Trigger spot and the Gray wire to the common ground spot on the new main trigger pcb and it should work but it doesn't.

I did pick up a proper power supply. Both solenoids kick when i directly apply power to them so nothing burned out. Wasn't sure if I affected the boards in any way using the normal pc psu though, the solenoid did get very hot when I left the 12v hooked up for awhile. Once I got the right power supply I tried starting over, using my second gun with fresh parts and being extremely careful with the wiring and soldering etc. It still doesn't work at all. Not only does the solenoid not kick but the sensor is also wacky and the regular trigger isn't registering.

All in all the process has been tough for a casual DIY'er like myself. Hope I can get them working but so far I've got two broke guns that don't even work as light guns. Curious to see if others have issues as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You guys are crazy to go through all this just to get a kickback when you use your lightguns. IMO a waste of money.

Highly subjective. Isn't this whole hobby kind of a waste of money? :rolleyes:

I think the kickback is kinda cool myself and when I saw a kit offered from Ultimarc I didn't think it was going to be 'all that' to do as Andy's pretty reliable and I've been mostly happy with the products. It's turned out to be much more of project than I initially thought. The soldering with super small wires and pcb are tricky. There are also additional costs like the 24v power supplies you'll need to scrounge up and the 2-wire cable at a length similar to gun usb cables is $20-30. I'll try to do some pics, vids etc. if/when I get it working and people can decide if it's worth it or not. My verdict is probably still yes (if it works) but you should know going in there are some challenges and it is not a 1 hour project.

For those keeping score here's where I'm at. I have one gun assembled in what is supposed to be the correct wiring scheme and I've now got a proper power supply. I say 'supposed to be' on the wiring because Andy seemed a bit wishy washy on it since I had an old style sensor and the instructions weren't geared towards it. When it didn't work Andy sent me an updated version of the firmware, again for the older style sensor, still nothing. He then asked what I had the recoil strength set at in the AimTrak Utility to which I replied 'what recoil strength'? The version of the AimTrak Utility I had been using was 1.8 which is what is linked to on 2 out of the 3 spots on the Ultimarc website. Finding the magic third spot where version 1.9 is available I downloaded it and when I went to install it noticed that the install screen says it's version 1.7. After the install the app title bar says 1.9 so I'm assuming it's the correct version but I still can't see a recoil strength setting and have emailed Andy and he has not responded since yesterday. The gun works perfectly as a light gun again, just can't get the solenoid to kick.

Other note: I've set aside the components of the other gun as I had them hooked up to the original 12v cpu power supply, walked away for 10 minutes and the solenoid got hot enough to melt and warp the gun case. This was my own boneheaded maneuver however so I can't complain too much. I think the components are alright, I just wanted to start fresh and get one working before I go back and mess with this one. I'll have to order a new gun case for sure, hopefully I can still use the solenoid etc. It still kicked when I hooked it up directly to my 24v power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8BitMonk, I give you credit for your commitment to this. I really want the force feedback effect, but I can't foresee myself going through the trouble you're going through now. I'll just wait and pay a little more for a complete kit, whenever they decide to surface. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...