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Day of the Pinheads - Widebody 46/32/DMD


Aurich

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nice :) how did you fix your DMD? :)

I don't know! It just started working again, that glitch vanished. I'd talked to Brett about it but never actually got anywhere with him. The funny thing is I didn't even notice, my wife saw that video and asked the same question, that's when I realized at some point it stopped doing it. :bird:

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Color me jealous! I wish I had the wood skills that some of you guys have. I've been working on my own build for the past few weeks and was wondering how you guys were stuffing 30 and 32" monitors into the back box (best I could make fit was a 27"). From the looks of things building the machine your self is the way to make that happen.

Great looking machine Aurich!

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Color me jealous! I wish I had the wood skills that some of you guys have. I've been working on my own build for the past few weeks and was wondering how you guys were stuffing 30 and 32" monitors into the back box (best I could make fit was a 27"). From the looks of things building the machine your self is the way to make that happen.

Great looking machine Aurich!

Thanks. I'm honestly not any kind of wood working wizard, nothing but self taught skills and a decent collection of power tools. My first MAME cabinet build was a bit of a mess, all held together with angle brackets, I had no idea what I was doing. I scrapped it when I built my second one:

new-home-1.jpg

Every build teaches you something. I'd definitely handle a lot of details on a pinball build differently if I ever did it again. But yeah, doing it from scratch is IMHO the way to go, you can design everything to fit just the way you want. And honestly the build itself and the challenge of problem solving is really a huge part of the draw for me. I wouldn't want to use a kit or start with an existing cabinet, wouldn't scratch the same itch.

The back box feeling like the right ratio was one the most important details for me. I really wanted the DMD area to be slim and the screen above it to have as little wasted bezel space as possible. I didn't complete the measurements on it until I'd decased the 32" TV so I could achieve that.

I'm just grateful for people like Russ, wouldn't have been possible to pull off this design without a real DMD sitting in there! ;)

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Rosve did an awesome B2S backglass, being able to have the interactive spider on the backglass was great. But it wasn't as high rez as I would have liked, the artwork was a little too dark (great for showing the lights but not so great for seeing things) and the spider wasn't so hot. Low rez, haloed, and the white plastic disc it was mounted out that's supposed to be behind the hole was visible. So without taking anything away from his hard work I wished I could redo the art.

Herweh's new B2S editor isn't quite up to the task of doing something this interactive by itself, but luckily he was game to handle the extra coding himself, so we're working together on a new one.

I sourced several different backglasses and frankensteined them together into the best complete image I could (with chriz99's as the foundation). Not as perfect as having access to a machine to photograph but I think about as good as it's going to get otherwise. High def resolution, and if you've seen SS in person you know part of the art is on a separate plexiglass layer, kept that alive unlike the prev version which felt like one flat piece.

Couldn't find an acceptable spider photo, so I just made my own:

Scared-Stiff-Spider.png

I've got a beta of it and the new server code needed to run it, works great (what that photo is of). I dunno exactly when it will be all ready to release, but soon I would guess, really up to Herweh. I could nitpick a couple details here and there, but if he wanted to release as is I'd be happy. IMHO definitely an improvement over the prev B2S (thanks Rosve!), and works with the new server system, so easy to add to any version of the table you like (including the exisiting B2S modded one).

If you have a 2 screen setup I put a Bally grill in too.

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Someone in another forum was asking me questions about my DMD, so I shot some video for him. I think the gridlines are actually a little more pronounced in the video than in person, but if you want a rough idea what one of these segmented X-Pin DMDs look like this isn't a bad way to check it out.

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That spider looks amazing! Nice job. And the cab isn't half bad either :D

Thanks. I couldn't find a decent shot of the real thing, though I did find in my research that there were a lot of variations on the production one, so I felt like I was on pretty solid ground interpreting it. Started with this stock shot of a plastic spider and Photoshopped it into something closer to the real thing:

stock-spider.jpg

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Aurich, I'm loving your cab. I really like the look of your backbox & speaker panel, and definitely think the no-wasted-space approach was the right way to go.

Picture request, if you don't mind: I'd like to see a close-up of your playfield flashers. Just curious of how you concealed your heatsinks and what type of flasher domes you used as I don't see any screws...

Thanks! Looks awesome!

EDIT: I took a closer look and it appears that the LEDs, heatsinks, and domes are mounted from behind? Is that right?

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Aurich, I'm loving your cab. I really like the look of your backbox & speaker panel, and definitely think the no-wasted-space approach was the right way to go.

Picture request, if you don't mind: I'd like to see a close-up of your playfield flashers. Just curious of how you concealed your heatsinks and what type of flasher domes you used as I don't see any screws...

Thanks! Looks awesome!

EDIT: I took a closer look and it appears that the LEDs, heatsinks, and domes are mounted from behind? Is that right?

Yeah, I drilled holes through the board, and screwed the domes in from behind. Then just put the heatsinks with LEDs on top of those. I forget the size of the holes off the top of my head, I think it was 1 1/8" or 1 1/4".

These are the domes I used: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-13

I punched out 1" circles of some kind of waxy paper backing I had lying around, and put them inside the ends of the domes to help difuse the light a bit, helps them blend the RGB colors a bit and cuts down on the intensity a little too. 1" fits perfectly, they didn't need glue or anything, won't fall out.

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Yeah, I drilled holes through the board, and screwed the domes in from behind. Then just put the heatsinks with LEDs on top of those...

Hi Aurich, can you elaborate on this a bit? How did you mount the LEDs/heatsinks? Did you actually fasten them to the board, or are they actually fastened to the domes somehow?

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Hi Aurich, can you elaborate on this a bit? How did you mount the LEDs/heatsinks? Did you actually fasten them to the board, or are they actually fastened to the domes somehow?

So the heatsinks I have are radial, and then at the end of the arms are little semi-circles that you can put a screw in, like a sleeve. (See pic above, http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8280233820_3aa98e8795_c.jpg) So I just lined up the LEDs behind the domes and put a couple screws into the sleeves and right into the wood. So no, not connected to the domes, but to the board. It's pretty basic really once you have it all in front of you.

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