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Rango's Dirtball (or DirtPinball) - 46/32/DMD - Wide Body


antropus

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Thank you so much for all the inspiration, generous contributions with all your knowledge and thanks for the amazing work done by people like Noah, Zebulon, Mameman among others.

The theme for the artwork will orbit around the movie "Rango". I'm a professional Digital Artist working in the movie industry for almost 10 years now and I was lucky enough to have the chance to work in this movie, as a Senior Modeler (I sculpted a few characters, like The Mayor, Waffles and The Spirit of The West, among other background characters). Since the movie won the Oscar last year, I decided to pay homage to it. If you haven't seen it yet you should! It's a great little flick. I'm ok tech savvy (I think), but I'm *almost* clueless about the electrical stuff (although I managed to put together my own mame arcade machine), so I'm pretty sure I will learn A LOT from you guys in the process.

Here's a little bit of what I have in mind (thanks chriz99 for the inspiration and the template ;)

Cabinet

- Noah' Widebody VirtuPin, flat pack and no holes cut ( http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=85 )

- The backbox is slightly wider than the norm, about 1-1/2" to accommodate my 32" TV

- Speaker panel is being CNCd by mameman to mimic a WPC95, only slightly wider to conform to the custom back box

- I took the time to photograph and carefully trace the Williams logo applied to the original speaker panel from my Monster Bash pinball machine and I'll be doing some tests trying to get a good match to the original one, possibly by getting it laser cut in thin plastic with a chrome foil/vinyl applied to it. If I get a good match I'll not mind making more copies for anyone interested.

- Ultimate Cabinet Kit Widebody: brand new legs, all metals, lockbar and trims ( http://virtuapin.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=35 )

- I'll be routing to mimic a WPC95 backbox, just adapted to my needs

- Perforated Aluminum Sheets to cover the fans

- Routed channel to fit the 46" playfield in the Widebody cab

- New Williams/Bally Pinball coin door

- Tempered glass to protect playfield and backglass

- Fully wired/functional coindoor (I hope...)

- Internal trays: not sure if one or two. I'll be using two Ikea red doors that we removed from a bookshelf (my wife hated that color :) )

Paint

- white interior (easier to locate things under low light)

- black exterior

Screens

- 46" Samsung LED Full HD 1080p UN46ES6003 via HDMI - great viewing angles, excellent contrast and black levels

- 32" Panasonic Viera TC-L32X5 720p - via HDMI

- Plasma Vishay DMD 128x32 (I'm aware this is not going to work with the pinDMD2 for lack of power supply, but I'm hopeful that a solution will come to light at some point soon, thanks to some of the geniuses in this forum, so I'll hold to it for now :)

PC

- Windows 7 64-bit

- Intel i7-920, no overclock

- MSI X58A-GD65 Motherboard

- 6GB RAM (OCZ3x3GB RAM DDR3 1600 - PC3 12800)

- Galaxy / Nvidia GTX650 GC 1 GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 DVI/DVI/MINI-HDMI

- Samsung 840 Series SSD-250GB Sata 6GB MZ-7TD250BW

- Onboard Realtek HD Audio

- Logitech 2.1 Speaker System Z623

- OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular PSU (main system)

- Antec VP-450 - 450Watt (dedicated to Zebulon's booster board)

Additional Details

- Ledwiz USB + Zebulon Booster board to control: 5 RGBs, 4 LEDs, 8 Siemens 3RT1016-1BB41 24v contactors, shaker, knocker and gear motors.

- Looking for a good digital nudge solution, mostly between the mini mercury switches or the tilt bobs

- Plunger will be a simple giant button, just like in my original Monster Bash

- Belkin Conserve Socket with Energy Saving Outlet

- I found this nifty little PSU, 2A, with a molex connector that can feed all my cabinet fans at once. Kind overkill since I can use the main PSU for it, but for 11 bucks it works great and will surely be useful if not in this machine, in my arcade or home theater! Picture attached

I'll keep updating the list as I go. For now, here are some pictures of my progress while I wait for my cabinet, Zebulon's board and mameman's speaker panel to arrive, among many other parts...

-Kris

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Just trying to catch up with my thread from VPForuns. Sorry for the lack of text. I'll try to make those first posts more of a visual log and then start posting new info as I posted at VPForuns. Here's a little bit of random pictures of my progress so far, in chronological order, kind of:

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-Kris

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I retraced the Williams logo to match the speaker panel perfectly. The vector ones available on the net DO NOT match it (see the logo in black in relation to the actual logo). The one in the speaker panel is fatter and has some major differences in relation to the one meant for print:

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My nudge control using a single redesigned/recut tilt bob:

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A 3D model I built for pre-viz and some VERY preliminary artwork

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-Kris

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Thanks guys! Ton, I know man and I'm so bummed with it :-(

I asked Noah to add the leg holes for me and when I put it together I realized the problem. Now I'm looking for a good solution to cover those holes while keeping that area strong, so I can drill the new holes. Bondo or something else, epoxy based?

Thanks,

-Kris

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The fix was much easier than I anticipated! I just flipped the back metal pieces and drilled one additional hole in each side and done! The old holes disappeared behind it. But still, I got some JB to cover it up and make sure that area is strong, but quite frankly I don't even think it's necessary. The angle of view improved and it feels more like the real deal now. I also added the front buttons tonight.

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Thanks for pointing that out. It was bothering me as well!

- Kris

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Hey, thanks RoccoC. I used Maya for modeling and V-Ray for rendering.

Here's some of the progress I made tonight:

- Added channel between back box and cabinet, just enough for a few cables to feed into the back box.

- Added metal bars to hold it in place, like in the actual pinballs. It feels rock solid now.

- Added back clip to hold the back box

- Backbox TV mount done and easy to take apart if necessary. Feels sturdy as well.

- RGB/flasher bar redesigned. I had the idea to make the flashers recessed and added a Lexan "glass" to cover the whole bar. This way I believe I'll get three things I want:

1) a Rango artwork printed in translite that will cover the whole bar and possibly two characters or similar at the very corners, covering the flashers, so they come to life when the flashers fire!

2) reduce the intensity of the flashers behind the artwork, that can be quite blinding sometimes :)

3) it will add a nice reflexive surface to propagate the lights

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-Kris

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Woodwork is done!

Thanks to my amazing wife, who kept our 2 year old busy while I worked on this over the weekend, not only I managed to finish all cuts and assembling, but I also finished the wood filler/putty job and sanded the whole thing!

A very few details left and I will probably start priming it tomorrow or so. The electric sander is my new best friend. The thing feels damn smooth! :)

I also added the back box piece that holds the glass in place and it works perfectly. With that I'll be able to add and remove the glass just like in the real machines (not like I'll need to, but it sure makes it look more authentic :) ).

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-Kris

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Your latest picture links are broken. It looks like you're trying to share images from VPF and they're not playing nicely. At least for people who aren't currently logged in over there.

Weird! I guess the whole forum-to-forum attachments are not working correctly. But if you guys are registered over there, here's the thread:

http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=22621

I hosted those ones in my website. Nothing hooked up yet, just the TVs and computer running to get an idea about how it will look like:

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My wife changed the layout of the gameroom. She wants the machines diagonally, in the corners. Fine with me as long as they stay :)

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Here's the RGBs/strobes bar in close-up. The lexan "glass" covers the strobes and adds some nice reflections. In the future an artwork will be placed underneath the acrylic, covering the strobes completely until they fire through the artwork:

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-Kris

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Thanks DeeGor and thanks for the inspiration as well! Yours and some other cabinets here were the reasons I started mine :)

At first I thought about using regular white lights instead of RGBs and that's why I got the domes colored, then seeing all the cool stuff you can do with RGBs I got courageous about the soldering and changed my mind!

I might get the colored domes replaced, but I want to see the effect using them first. If it doesn't suck I'll keep them, since it looks like candy when the machine is off :P

-Kris

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