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46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet


chriz99

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Posted

Oops, seems that this is true !

Called my buddy at the electronic store, you could use the kit, but replace the triacs with a transistor that could switch up to 5-7Amps, something like a BD241, BD243 or BD245 he suggested.

When using the triac you COULD get it to switch on, but switching off could be a hole other thing.. :(

Sorry if i set you on the wrong track here...

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[TD=align: center]New project homepage: http://blog.pixelmagic.nl/[/TD]

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[TD=align: center]LED-Wiz utility: http://pinball.pixelmagic.nl/ledwiz/[/TD]

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[TD=align: center]Anyone want to buy my LEDwiz ??

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Posted

no prob, erwin... maybe I can use it for another project.

...

got my big old beast stroboscope today: that is the special strobe effect I've ever wished :D will take a vid soon :stoned:

DSC00328%20%28Large%29.JPG

DSC00327%20%28Large%29.JPG

powered by ibiza 1500 strobo :D up to 15000lumen per flash :stupid:

10003197_1_title_ibiza_ls.jpg

I paid 60 euros for my stroboscope at ebay. it's a 230v/1500w analog strobe which can be manually adjusted in speed (via pot).

cheers

chris

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* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted
I use a 150w 12.5a 12vdc power supply for everything...

like this one

1657457-40.jpg

costs about 30 bucks

Hmm, I picked up one of these power supplies, but I can't get any reading of DC volts out of the PS. The 120v A/C in is measuing with my DMM, but the -V and +V are reading 0 with my meter set to DC voltage. Mine looks exactly the same but its +24v and 5amp. Did you have to adjust the +V adjustment pot to get any voltage out?

I assume black lead on -V, red lead on +V and meter set to VoltsDC? Either way I read it I get nothing out.

Posted

odd :idea:

mine works out of the box with 12vdc. the voltage pot is just for fine-tuning (like 11v-13v). maybe it's set to 220v (look for a 110v/220v switch us/european voltage)?

cheers

chris

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted
stupid question, but I am assuming you change the VMM to DC from AC?

Yes, DMM is set to VDC. I verified the switch is on 110V for USA current.

I tried the second power supply and get the same values. ugh. :stupido:

Posted
just wondering chris why didnt you go with the oringal strobe idea with the car lights?? thoughts??

the car strobes are simply not bright enough.

cheers

chris

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted

if the current is below 500mA you can directly connect it to your ledwiz.... like a led. positive wire to the voltage bank, negative wire to the ledwiz output.

if the current is over 500mA you need a relay for switching the car-strobe on/off.

cheers

chris

[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

* taito egret 29 candy cabs * indy & star wars pachinkos

17" bartop with ledwiz rgbleds * 10" bubble bobble & galaga bartop * arm champs 2

check out hi-res backglasses * best vpin performance * ledwiz config and software

Posted
wow .. there is absoluty no information how much the current is on the seller sites..

i can order the same one as you, if you have some time could you check what yours says?

Most cheapo voltmeters can measure current if you have one. So run it directly off a power supply first and check the current draw. Usually the meter will have different probe slots for checking amperage marked with an "A" and "mA". Start with "A" and set the meter dial to 20A or whatever the highest is. if it reads less than 1.0, you can safely move it to "mA" and set the dial to 1A and retest. Then just put the two probes inline on the + lead kind of like how you would with a fuse.

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