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gigapig

Giga builds a cocktail table

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After putting it off for many years I've finally had some spare cash and decided to just go for it and build the cocktail table I've always wanted.

 

I've got no plans it's just all in my head and has been scribbled down on cardboard, it's also evolving a little as I go along, more on that later.

 

I'm documenting it on video so you can watch as it develops or falls apart.

 

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLlyHOs2WxYvLfG8V2c296k9fKDMapc5Ln

 

Since starting the actual chest has been taken apart but it was kind of like this.

 

post-2819-0-51849800-1474123961_thumb.jp

 

The lid I tried to cut out with my jig saw and despite it having a laser on it and a guide the damn thing was a mess so I bought some MDF. The amount I bought for £15 is enough for the lid and the two control panels.

 

I'll put a parts list down below but so far most parts have come from arcadeworlduk.com or Ebay or Amazon.

 

Now what colour is it going to be? Well it's still a piece of furniture but currently it's going to be white for end to end and the sides are going to be Donkey Kong Jr orange.

Try to get the colour code was kind of easy but finding it in the UK was tricky.

 

I found a code Here but it's a US code from Lowes, so I sent Valspar an email and they were extremely helpful, they came back with a colour called Tigress (X65 R126F) which looks really good so I bought a tester pot.

 

I'm excited about this next bit. I had an idea to place an additional screen in the horizontal control panel above the track ball to show marquee art, Hi scores and a pinball DMD. As the control panel is currently going to be 8 inches deep and the screen is 7 inches, there is no room, so I'm going to incorporate it into the lid on the left side.

 

I looked around for one and found a good one on Amazon which is a 7" capacitive touch screen which you can use with Raspberry Pi. Some of the comments and the sellers blurb said the touch function does not work with a PC but after plugging the thing in I found it does work really well. Sadly it will be under glass so I won't be using that part.

 

Here's the screen.

 

post-2819-0-24132200-1474126091_thumb.jp 

 

Some updates as of 15/10/2016UK or 10/15/2016US

 

Getting there

 

post-2819-0-44327300-1476549298_thumb.jp

 

I made a stupid error of drilling a 28mm hole on a join which looks a bloody mess but won't be seen.

 

 

post-2819-0-46107200-1476549439_thumb.jp

 

 

Red side, player 2

post-2819-0-17210600-1476549446_thumb.jp

 

I wasn't happy with the long horizontal side so it needed some additional work. Currently the trackball and sticks are being siliconed into place.

 

post-2819-0-81285200-1476549452_thumb.jp

 

I had a Space Invaders instruction card which matched the small screen exactly in size, so I added it to the opposite side.

Also I have painted the underside of this perspex and the controls are drying after being siliconed on.

 

post-2819-0-52302100-1476550491_thumb.jp

 

Here's what the chest looked like before.

 

post-2819-0-69888400-1476550136_thumb.jp

 

 

List of parts

 

Arcade World UK

 

AWUK Aluminium Bat Top Handle (Colour: Orange)   1 £4.99 GBP £4.99 GBP

AWUK Aluminium Bat Top Handle (Colour: Light Blue)   1 £4.99 GBP £4.99 GBP

AWUK Aluminium JLF Shaft Cover And Dust Cover Set (Colour: Aluminium Light Blue)   1 £3.99 GBP £3.99 GBP

AWUK Aluminium JLF Shaft Cover And Dust Cover Set (Colour: Aluminium Orange)   1 £3.99 GBP £3.99 GBP

Classic Arcade Start Button (Player: Two, Microswitch: D44X Cherry - 4.8mm)   1 £1.63 GBP £1.63 GBP

Gold Leaf Concave Arcade Button (Colour: Blue)   6 £1.58 GBP £9.48 GBP

Gold Leaf Concave Arcade Button (Colour: White)   4 £1.58 GBP £6.32 GBP I-PAC 2 FS32 Keyboard Encoder   1 £24.99 GBP £24.99 GBP

Sanwa LB-30N Bat Top Handle (Colour: White)   1 £3.10 GBP £3.10

GBP UltraStik 360 Ball Top Joystick (Colour: Black, Restrictor: None, Button Harness: No)   1 £36.99 GBP £36.99 GBP

UltraStik 360 Ball Top Joystick (Colour: Red, Restrictor: None, Button Harness: No)   1 £36.99 GBP £36.99 GBP

 

Amazon

 

Makibes 7 inch Capacitive Touch Screen LCD© 1024X600 High Resolution HDMI with Bicolor Case for Raspberry Pi/BB BLACK/PC Systems/Raspberry Pi 3 Model B £46.99

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Has anyone got any tips on mounting my cheap ass (sorry bad turn of phrase) track ball?

 

What I planned to do was remove enough material from the underside for it to slot in and enough Balls to be exposed on the CP side. I worried if I take out enough and leave about 3mm of MDF behind, but will it be strong enough?

 

The other option is some plexi on the CP, I'll have to test that out.

 

post-2819-0-74766900-1474379291_thumb.jp

 

 

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Has anyone got any tips on mounting my cheap ass (sorry bad turn of phrase) track ball?

 

What I planned to do was remove enough material from the underside for it to slot in and enough Balls to be exposed on the CP side. I worried if I take out enough and leave about 3mm of MDF behind, but will it be strong enough?

 

The other option is some plexi on the CP, I'll have to test that out.

 

attachicon.gif2016-09-20 14.41.33.jpg

That's how I mounted mine on mdf and used plexi overtop, it's nice and strong

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Has anyone got any tips on mounting my cheap ass (sorry bad turn of phrase) track ball?

 

What I planned to do was remove enough material from the underside for it to slot in and enough Balls to be exposed on the CP side. I worried if I take out enough and leave about 3mm of MDF behind, but will it be strong enough?

 

The other option is some plexi on the CP, I'll have to test that out.

 

attachicon.gif2016-09-20 14.41.33.jpg

 

MDF will probably break eventually at that thickness(thinness?). But if you supported the trackball assembly from the bottom with a support piece, and attached that support to the top MDF (where its not recessed) it would circumvent the stress on the thin portion of the MDF.

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MDF will probably break eventually at that thickness(thinness?). But if you supported the trackball assembly from the bottom with a support piece, and attached that support to the top MDF (where its not recessed) it would circumvent the stress on the thin portion of the MDF.

That is a good idea which hadn't crossed my mind.

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That's how I mounted mine on mdf and used plexi overtop, it's nice and strong

Thank you Dan for the reassurance. I need to get this sorted first and if I screw up then all I need is another piece of wood. I need to remember to test it on a piece of scrap.

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Has anyone got any tips on mounting my cheap ass (sorry bad turn of phrase) track ball?

 

What I planned to do was remove enough material from the underside for it to slot in and enough Balls to be exposed on the CP side. I worried if I take out enough and leave about 3mm of MDF behind, but will it be strong enough?

 

The other option is some plexi on the CP, I'll have to test that out.

 

attachicon.gif2016-09-20 14.41.33.jpg

 

 

I have mine only with a 3mm methacrylate without any problem. 

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I have mine only with a 3mm methacrylate without any problem. 

 

Methacrylate? Wow sounds addictive and illegal.

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Methacrylate? Wow sounds addictive and illegal.

 

Specially illegal  :teehee:

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Specially illegal :teehee:

You know what, your post may have changed the control panels.

I looked up methaddict whatever, commonly know as perspex in the UK. Then came across a site that has some great colours at good prices for cutting and rounding edges.

I could get away with 5mm and not use any mdf and it saves painting it.

Thank you.

http://www.perspexsheet.uk/colour-perspex/

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You know what, your post may have changed the control panels.

I looked up methaddict whatever, commonly know as perspex in the UK. Then came across a site that has some great colours at good prices for cutting and rounding edges.

I could get away with 5mm and not use any mdf and it saves painting it.

Thank you.

http://www.perspexsheet.uk/colour-perspex/

 

 

As i can see is similar (if not the same) as methacrylate.

 

You could do the same as i did (Only if you want :yucky: ):  I designed a stick and printed to add at the back of my methacrylate. You can see it in the pic:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zlhbpu127w92ux9/Captura%20de%20pantalla%202016-09-20%2021.57.44.png?dl=0

 

What do you think about?

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Has anyone got any tips on mounting my cheap ass (sorry bad turn of phrase) track ball?

 

What I planned to do was remove enough material from the underside for it to slot in and enough Balls to be exposed on the CP side. I worried if I take out enough and leave about 3mm of MDF behind, but will it be strong enough?

 

The other option is some plexi on the CP, I'll have to test that out.

 

attachicon.gif2016-09-20 14.41.33.jpg

 

i bought the same trackball, what i plan to do is remove the lid of the trackball so i have more clearance, then cut 2 grooves in the wood for the encoder wheels, because they are high enough to touch the wood.

also im using this as a trim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351409621576?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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i bought the same trackball, what i plan to do is remove the lid of the trackball so i have more clearance, then cut 2 grooves in the wood for the encoder wheels, because they are high enough to touch the wood.

also im using this as a trim: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351409621576?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Thanks. I had the same thought about taking the lid off but noticed the wheels, so I then thought about adding spacers to the bolt holes. Now that I have decided on using perspex which I order yesterday, that won't matter.

 

I have now received the glass top which looks lovely and also had the MSI  GTX 660ti delivered that I won on Ebay. It may be overkill I know.

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how are you doing the bezel? with paint or vinyl?

 

At the moment the bezel will be white and the perspex for the vertical ends will be a matt frosted white. The horizontal sides will be the Donkey Kong Jr orange with the matt Orange control panel. I could have gone for gloss but that may be prone to finger prints.

 

As for artwork, it was never going to have much if any, I prefer it to be subtle. The only thing I may add if they look OK are some arcade tokens. I've have one in my spinner and have bought a few more from Ebay, a token from Sega, a Flynn's Arcade and a Pac Man Namco one, the later two are on their way from the US. I hope to inlay them into the bezel under the glass.

 

I could also have some bezels made in the future and swap them out as the glass should be easy to remove. I think my brother can print them for me.

 

Here's my current tokens.

 

post-2819-0-12931900-1474571097_thumb.jp

 

post-2819-0-82697300-1474571101_thumb.jp

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Nice.

 

So, are you going to upgrade your "Beer Me" sign to "Cocktail Me" soon then? :)

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Nice.

 

So, are you going to upgrade your "Beer Me" sign to "Cocktail Me" soon then? :)

Yeah good idea then I can charge more ;) and have a Happy Hour.

Did some more panel spraying over the weekend, that has been the most time consuming thing so far. I do like the Donkey kong Jr orange though.

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Here are the side panels and the lid which have been part painted.

 

post-2819-0-92590500-1475492188_thumb.jp

 

And here is my home made spinner steering wheel attachment. Just uploading a video on that with more details.

 

post-2819-0-68082300-1475492201_thumb.jp

 

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How is this not made out of bacon?!

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Giga,  (peeks in from behind the curtain)

I have a Chuck E. Cheese token for you as well.  Just need to send it to you!!

 

Thanks,

Ron

 

 

At the moment the bezel will be white and the perspex for the vertical ends will be a matt frosted white. The horizontal sides will be the Donkey Kong Jr orange with the matt Orange control panel. I could have gone for gloss but that may be prone to finger prints.

 

As for artwork, it was never going to have much if any, I prefer it to be subtle. The only thing I may add if they look OK are some arcade tokens. I've have one in my spinner and have bought a few more from Ebay, a token from Sega, a Flynn's Arcade and a Pac Man Namco one, the later two are on their way from the US. I hope to inlay them into the bezel under the glass.

 

I could also have some bezels made in the future and swap them out as the glass should be easy to remove. I think my brother can print them for me.

 

Here's my current tokens.

 

attachicon.gif20160922_195405.jpg

 

attachicon.gif20160922_195552.jpg

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Giga,  (peeks in from behind the curtain)

I have a Chuck E. Cheese token for you as well.  Just need to send it to you!!

 

Thanks,

Ron

 

Wow, not sure what is more exciting, you posting or offering the token  :thumbsup:  Good to see you Ron.

 

And here's a picture I took in 2011 of the wonderful Chuck E. Cheese.

post-2819-0-95742900-1475519926_thumb.jp

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Here's some finished panels ready for the fun bit of putting it all together.

 

post-2819-0-53069300-1476204551_thumb.jp

 

Here I have mounted the screens, the smaller one I used the brass stand-offs which came with the kit.

 

post-2819-0-53949200-1476204557_thumb.jp

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I've updated the opening post to show some updates as things have moved on a bit.

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Just uploaded a video which shows the finished cabinet. If anyone has any suggestion regarding securing the control panels then I would love to hear it.

There's no real reason once the controls are wired to access it and because of the way it is hinges are out. I did think of some small rare earth magnets but they may interfere with the Ultrastiks.

 

I may glue a block of wood to the underside of the perspex (acrylic) with a threaded bolt running through it and then secure it through the bottom of the CP. 

 

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