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mikekim

Watchmen Pinball - 40/27/DMD - Standard Body

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update

not much really going on this week..

was looking into picking up some chromed back box hinges, but the £80 price tag was a bit steep, so decided to cover the existing ones i had in chrome wrap.

ypkx.jpg

spot the difference

pl18.jpg

both done.

if i don't like them when installed i might pickup some proper chromed ones.. well have to wait and see on that one..

I'm also looking to use a coloured chrome wrap on the inside of the cab between the playfield and the glass, not sure which colour yet, will pickup some samples and try them out.

also noticed the the DMD panel is the wrong size now (as i have upgraded from a segmented led back to a Vishay 12v plasma) so will have slightly enlarge the window (or maybe cut out a complete new panel) in the next couple of weeks.

was going to wire up the ipac this week but forgot to take over the pinout diagram, so basically tidied up the wring on the coin door ready for next time.

2fbbc.jpg

quick recap for those people who missed the initial installation of my coin buttons:

svdxo.jpg

i have attached leaf switches to the coin button reject mechanism, so to add a credit you press the coin door reject button which in turn activates the leaf spring and gives you a credit.

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update

time to start on the mirrored side walls.

i picked up some 0.5mm High Impact Polystyrene sheet (HIPS) from a local supplier use use as the base for the side rails, as putting the vinyl straight onto the wood showed up the wood grain, and didn't look that good.

the blue mirrored chrome sheet came from ebay

d387.jpg

measured up the side walls and cut the sheet to size.

pe1v.jpg

cut the mirror chrome wrap to the required size

18s5.jpg

attached the wrap to the HIPS sheet then removed the clear protection cover

zsib.jpg

shot showing the side wall installed in the cab, leaving some excess at the top, so it would tuck under the glass channel rails, leaving a neater finish.

a0sv.jpg

main play field installed, not sure if I'm going to cover the dmd panel the same way or just paint it black.

1pz0.jpg

also used the same method for the front apron, so there is a nice smooth curve from the lockdown bar to the play field

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update

not much happening this week.

picked up more items for the build..

finally managed to find a set of speaker covers that would work with the cab..

2b809d.jpg

6311df.jpg

picked them up off of ebay.. they are meant for a type 1 beetle :cool:

have also got a larger sheet of the mirrored blue wrap, as I'm going to redo the back box, didn't really like the carbon effect, as it doesn't really fit with the rest of the build. Im going to use the same procedure to cover the back box, as i did with the sidewalls (HIPS sheet underlay, with blue chrome wrap)

also sourced a louder amp for the mechanical sounds - the bravo Audio amp was after all designed to be a headphone amp, so I'm now using that on my electric guitar setup.

062942.jpg

e231e8.jpg

4d7b13.jpg

the amp is an S.M.S.L SA-50 the sound quality is first rate and the volume is acceptable for the mechanical sounds.

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update

almost feels like a thread necro... first day off in three weeks (the joys of work..)

thought i'd get back into it gently so decided to wire up the ipac.

6kp95n.png

the current key assignments of my ipac

p1 settings are for the main flippers, start, launch, exit extra ball and coin button

p2 settings are for the coin door functions and the secondary flippers..

sKvjku.jpg

used a multimeter to tone out each cable, to ensure the correct wires are in the right location.

I have yet to install the microswitch for the coin door open button (p2 sw1) and the slam tilt switch (p1-a)

I cut the plug off of the coin door and wired the buttons directly into the ipac. (seemed the simplest solution)

BMV7ES.jpg

slightly further out shot showing location of ipac (affixed to the sidewall with velcro)

the two leftover wires are for the coin button leds and will be extended back to the I/O board tray

Edited by mikekim

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update

not much on the build side due to work commitments :face palm:

I installed the new Alpha 2 demo of Timeshock on my cab, and thought i'd give it a tryout.

YFz2mJ.png

I know my gfx card is a couple of years old (3+) (GTX 580) and the Timeshock code is not optimised in any way, but the performance was terrible when played at full cab resolution.

So as i have to disassemble my pc to install a new reservoir and water pump I thought i might was well upgrade the GFX card to something more modern, with a bit more power..

so i purchased one of these babies...

NyRFWF.jpg

EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Dual Classified w/ EVGA Hydro Copper Cooler

no idea when I'm going to get the time to install it though..

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Omg ! What tables is that and what's time shock?

Sent from the smut hut

the Pinball table is called Timeshock, and its a new recereation of a pinball simulation, produced by a company called Pro Pinball.

Alpha and Beta version access where given to certain levels of Kickstarter donations.

check out their webpage https://www.pro-pinball.com

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the Pinball table is called Timeshock, and its a new recereation of a pinball simulation, produced by a company called Pro Pinball.

Alpha and Beta version access where given to certain levels of Kickstarter donations.

check out their webpage https://www.pro-pinball.com

Yup I hit the google after I posted looks great do you think they will get licences for original tables ?

Sent from the smut hut

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probably not... i think they will be more like Zen studios (Pinball FX & FX2), where they produce their own table designs.

when VP10 comes on stream that will cover all of the mainstream tables and will look and play fantastic.. (with physics and playability very close to the original tables)

no idea when thats going to happen yet though.

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update

wow the days just fly by when you have to work.. :dontknow:

still i suppose it pays for the expensive builds..

anyway, back to the task in hand..

just a couple of little jobs this week as i didn't have much time available to do much..

wanted to cover the dmd panel with the blue chrome wrap, but putting it direct onto wood leaves a nasty grain effect, so it doesn't really look like chrome.

LS4obT.jpg

started out by measuring the visible area of the dmd screen and making a template

fTakTS.jpg

transfrerred that onto a sheet of aluminium ready to cut out the dmd window

pO4wCq.jpg

PQyMKv.jpg

then cut out the dmd window with a jigsaw (spot the Blue Peter moment of "here's one i did earlier")

as the cut went a bit wrong on the first attempt so had to markup a second and cut that one out. :facepalm:

D5IhYw.jpg

then covered the sheet with blue chrome wrap..

this will be glued onto the original backboard (with a section cutout to allow the dmd to sit flush to the aluminium plate).. more on that later..

next up, the backbox hinges...

as i have blue chrome internal sidewalls on my cab, the standard backbox mounting nuts and bolts need to be modified, because i need to hide the nut head in the side of the cab, so the nut doesn't show through the chrome sides.

this means i've had to get a bit creative with the fixing.

i started by measuring up and drilling a 3mm pilot hole through the sidewall of the cab.

4I5MPe.jpg

on the inside of the cab i drilled a 25mm hole a couple of mm deep with a Forstner bit.

i then drilled the hole from the outside (using the original pilot hole as a marker ) with a 12mm forester bit

FRSUQd.jpg

a close up of the nut in the hole (which will be covered by the chrome sidewalls)

JxIU1T.jpg

because i have flushed these into the sides of the cab, the nut protrudes from the side of the cab, and will need to be shortened.

yK7GGB.jpg

the bolt will also need 8mm removed off of the thread to fit the custom nuts..

the blue chrome sidewalls have been reinstalled and you would never know the nuts are installed :beer:

its quite surprising how much thought it takes to achieve something just a little different from the norm, but seeing it come to fruition makes it all worth while..

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Another awesome update I'll call off the search party

Just a thought but wouldn't it have been a little easier to smooth of that wood or maybe a lite skin of filler to get ultra smooth non wood grain finish ?

Or is that just as much work as cutting a piece of aluminium ?

Sent from the smut hut

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Another awesome update I'll call off the search party

Just a thought but wouldn't it have been a little easier to smooth of that wood or maybe a lite skin of filler to get ultra smooth non wood grain finish ?

Or is that just as much work as cutting a piece of aluminium ?

Sent from the smut hut

Tried to smooth the wood.. Didn't like the finish once the wrap was applied, also the routed curve I had on the dmd window was a pita to get wrapped properly, so the aluminium sheet was the next easiest option.

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update

managed to make some serious in roads into the cab wiring today..

here are a couple of shots of the finished front inside..

xrgRFy.jpg

just love the cable tray as it hides a multitude of sins, makes everything look so neat..

F61EtW.jpg

shot from inside the coin door showing the sub and shaker motor and gear motor positions. the box in front of the sub is the controller box for the plunger and nudge sensor..

(in the background you can see the carnage of wires that is the rear of the cab.. this will be next weeks installment)

Edited by mikekim

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Wow just wow

I used to work in panel wiring

To a high standard,this makes that look amateur great work

Excuse my stupidity but are the flipper buttons above the ledge for the screen ? How does that work ?

Edited by monkeychunkuk

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Wow just wow

I used to work in panel wiring

To a high standard,this makes that look amateur great work

Excuse my stupidity but are the flipper buttons above the ledge for the screen ? How does that work ?

Thanks for the compliment..

Re.. the flipper buttons, yes they are above the height of the screen, but the screen stops just before the buttons, so no problems there.. ;)

Sent from my HTC One_M8

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update

the joys of more wiring....

first off i checked the fitment and installation of the Virtual output tray, as this was first installed before i put in all of the cable tray..

ahcHmt.jpg

thankfully it still fits, but its a tight squeeze to get it in and out

next up i used a multimeter to test all of the wires from the Virtual output board.

stIwjz.jpg

each cable was then labelled ready (with label cable ties) to be soldered to the corresponding wire in the cab..

the rear cab wires where then tidied up and routed correctly into the cable tray.

sgDJw7.jpg

the big bunch of cables on the right hand side of the picture will be toned out and joined to the correct cable on the I/O tray connector.

(now just have to tidy all of the rubbish under the cab :facepalm: )

one other bit i did a while back but forgot to document was the knocker installation.

I purchased a new Data East knocker some time back and have just got around to installing it..

MZ4kRv.jpg

this is installed into the top of the cab main body and will be hidden behind the DMD panel.

I though about picking up a strike plate for the knocker, but a quick hunt around of spares i had lying around and found this..

gdlBoF.jpg

for those of you not in the know, its a neck plate off of a Guitar..

it does the job perfectly.

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Every post you take it to the next levels great work Mike

Any chance of game play video with what's working

Sent from the smut hut

I'm sure there will be some gameplay vids appearing ... hopefully this side of Christmas

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