THK Posted September 14, 2013 Posted September 14, 2013 (edited) For people trying to get better at Photoshop I really recommend the Lynda .com one-on-one CS6 training/tutorial dvd's (Get it at [PB mirror]/search/lynda%20com%20one%20on%20one%20cs6/0/99/0) Especially the chapter on the Pen-Tool is essential. Other than that, practice is the best way to get better, don't know how to do something, look up those tutorial vids, google or ask one of our theme/wheel creators here on the forum. Some important tools to know/learn Image > Adjustments > Levels: Often the better way to adjust brightness & contrast Image > Adjustments > Vibrance: Adjust vibrance & saturation Image > Adjustments > Color Balance: Add or subtract colors Image > Adjustments > Channel Mixer: As name implies Image > Adjustments > Selective Color: Change cyan/magenta/yellow/black levels on red/yellow/blue/magenta/white/neutral/black Image > Adjustments > Replace Color: Change hue on a color/color range Image > Adjustments > Gradient Map: Applies a gradient by using the lightness and darkness values in the image as a map for how the gradient colors are applied Layer > Matting > Defringe / Remove Black Matte / Remove White Matte: Remove fringes/matting/halos from the outside of a anti-aliased image Select > Refine Edge: Lets you edit the selection by smoothing/feathering the selection and shift the selection up to 50 pixels (good for selection that need to be smoothed or a gradual/blurry transition into transparency, like hair) Edit > Fill (Content-Aware): Fill a selection and PS will guesstimate what should've been there and fill the selection with that. Great for clearing objects, text etc from larger surfaces like skies or grass Filter > Blur > Blur: As name implies Filter > Blur > Motion Blur / Radial Blur: Create illusion of movement (often best applied on a duplicate layer on top of the original one) Filter > Blur > Surface Blur: Blur the surface to get rid of noise (don't overdo it) Filter > Noise > Add Noise: Add noise for a grainy (texture) effect Filter > Noise > Reduce Noise: Reduce (color) noise (I prefer this over Surface Blur, also don't overdo it) Tools > Pen Tool: Learn it, love it! It's the most essential tool to learn for making cuts/selections Tools > Magic Wand: Only use this for (high res) images with a high contrast between the art and the background, preferably a solid background. If not, use the Pen-Tool! (it's the easy way out tool, but with more complex images you might end up spending more time refining the cut/edges than using the pen-tool) Tools > Quick Selection Tool: "THE tool to deep-etch image parts like a game title over a background" Tools > Healing / Patch / Clone Stamp Tool: Very handy for cleaning away lines, text, all sorts of things from box art for example Tools > Shape Tools: Don't underestimate the shape tools, with fill you can use them to build up clean shapes (I use them for vid border in stead of simple strokes that tend to pixilate on corners) or with/without a fill to make a selection (Layer window > Path tab > right click path > Make selection) Layer Panel > Opacity: Self explanatory Layer Panel > Fill: Especially handy to only show the Layer Style/Blending Options when set to 0% (you could for instance give art a drop shadow, convert only the drop shadow into a smart object and give it a gradient overlay) Layer Panel > Blend Mode: (next to Opacity, standard set to Normal) Lets you blend images into underlying layers in different ways. Duplicate an artwork layer edit it and then blend or blend it into the background. Make sure you merge the layers that need to blend together into one layer or a smart object. Layer Panel > Layer Style (or Blending Options, double or right click layer): Here you'll find everything to fancy up a layer, here again, a blend mode can be chosen for the particular effect. (the order of the effects are how they are stacked on top of each other) Layer Panel > Bevel & Emboss Layer Panel > Stroke Layer Panel > Inner Shadow Layer Panel > Inner Glow Layer Panel > Satin Layer Panel > Color Overlay Layer Panel > Gradient Overlay Layer Panel > Pattern Overlay Layer Panel > Outer Glow Layer Panel > Drop Shadow Layer Panel > (You can save a Layer Style and apply it to any layer afterwards) (need to add this in, but have to check it out 1st) Contrasting edges after "surface blur" in photoshop In your tutorial for cover editing you should add "hi-pass filter". It add contrast to image's edges without adding too much "aliased" contour and it does have a really good control over "what" you want to have more contrast. Duplicate the layer, filter>others>hi-pass, desaturate layer then change blending option to whathever you prefer (usually i use "overlay"). You can duplicate "hi-pass" layer to add more contrast or decrease layer visibility to decrease contrast. Moreover you can paint the hi-pass layer with background grey to decrease contrast in specific areas. An example (with an already processed image). I didn't "hide" image's text to show how filter does not add so much aliased contour as "contrast edges" http://imageshack.us/a/img856/5072/bplz.png If you get the hang of things and start using the Pen-Tool to actually redraw things, I really recommend watching the tutorial dvd's for Illustrator as well. Yes AI seems daunting, but if you're any good at PS, you will learn quickly (I think it took me a few days of messing around before I got good enough to make good use of the program and starting to redraw stuff) HyperSpin standards - Save settings below as a preset in Photoshop called something like "Wheel" & "Theme", so you don't accidentally cock it up and end up wondering what made HS/HT act out - Before cutting or touching up artwork, increase the image size something like 400%+ to be able to do more detailed work and resize it back afterwards - When placing/pasting art that needs sizing down, make it a Smart Object, this will ensure the original information/detail won't be lost so you can increase it's size again without losing detail. (for most editing the smart object needs to be rasterized again, so it's best to either do it before sizing down or make a backup of the smart object before rasterizing) - Make sure the file extensions are lower cased! Wheels - 400x175 px - 72 dpi - 8bit - RGB - png (interlaced) - When adding stokes/shadows/glow, make sure it doesn't get cut off by the canvas size, so apply before sizing down or make it a smart object and resize to fit canvas Themes - 1024x768 px - 72 dpi - 8bit - RGB - psd (to import into HT) - All artwork layers can be larger than the canvas size except the background!, which needs to be exactly 1024x768 - When adding/replacing art or the xml on a zipped theme, make sure you set 7zip/WinRar to store & add and replace files Some tips for searching artwork - Start your way at large images and work your way down to any size - Start with png's and then repeat the process with any filetype (for png's: add filetype : png without the spaces to your search query) - For Japanese games, look up their Japanese name and search for that as well and search for both the English and Japanese names on Google.jp, set to japanese sites only - For new games, look up their official website, there's often nice art to rip (I use firefox for this, right click page > page info > media tab, let's you browse through all non-flash art and download it) - For new games, search for a Press Kit on the developers/publishers/official game site - Look up a game's (or game series) wikia (not to be confused with wiki), there's sometimes some good art to be found Some sites I use for art (plz add your own) - http://flyers.arcade-museum.com/ (Arcade flyers) - http://www.coinopart.com (Arcade, requires membership) - http://www.arcadeartwork.org (Arcade) - http://arcadeartlibrary.com (Arcade) - http://www.arcade-gear.com (Arcade) - http://gamesdbase.com/ (All, not too good art, but usable for redraw source) - http://www.giantbomb.com/ (mostly for PC games) - http://www.fightabase.com (Fighting games) - http://fightersgeneration.com/ (Fighting games) Edited September 12, 2014 by THK 1 ..........................back with a vengeance........................
THK Posted September 14, 2013 Author Posted September 14, 2013 Dunno what else to call it ..........................back with a vengeance........................
THK Posted September 14, 2013 Author Posted September 14, 2013 Please post anything that should be added below ..........................back with a vengeance........................
brolly Posted September 15, 2013 Posted September 15, 2013 An useful tool is the Wheel Auditor Photoshop script that BBB made a couple of years back: http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?16099 Use it to audit your wheels or to fix those badly cropped ones.
DamnedRegistrations Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 THK, might I suggest a couple more useful tips? 1. Always remove TM symbols from wheel logos. They don't belong. This should be told to all wheel makers. 2. I notice a lot of wheels with black or colored borders look poor because people don't bother to blend edges. Better explained with an example: Notice the grey, light outline around this? Best viewed on black backdrop to make it more clear. Here it is properly blended, which will look better on any darker background. Yes it makes the edges invisible on black, but no themes really have pure black backgrounds and this is how the edges should look regardless. It's very easy to do and much better than using defringe, which doesn't always work good. 1.) Add a new layer above the logo after you've done the pen cut 2.) Select this new layer and create a clipping mask by either doing it in the layer menu or hitting 'alt + ctrl + g' 3.) Using the dropper tool, choose the color closest to the outter border 4.) Now simply brush along the edges, the clipping mask keeps everything intact so you don't brush outside your cut 5.) When finished, just merge the layer with your main logo layer Feel free to reword any of that how you like but I wish everyone would start adopting those habits.
THK Posted January 9, 2014 Author Posted January 9, 2014 Cool, I mostly just cut so it isn't needed or a quick inner shadow/inner stroke fixes it ..........................back with a vengeance........................
Polemicist Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 cool, i mostly just cut so it isn't needed or a quick inner shadow/inner stroke fixes it +1 I want to see more people doing artwork so the more help they can be given the better. 1
DamnedRegistrations Posted January 9, 2014 Posted January 9, 2014 Inner shadow/stroke works some of the time, but not always. Just like defringe. Let's say you cut a logo. Now the left edge is white, top is purple, bottom is black and right is red. Let's also say these edges are only 1px thick to make it worse. Can't exactly use an automated blending option then, so that's when clipping masks come into play and manually brushing them. I've had it to do it on a ton of different wheels, more than you can imagine. I know my example above is one where inner shadow would've worked fine, so maybe I should've used something else
THK Posted September 7, 2014 Author Posted September 7, 2014 Inner shadow/stroke works some of the time, but not always. Just like defringe. Let's say you cut a logo. Now the left edge is white, top is purple, bottom is black and right is red. Let's also say these edges are only 1px thick to make it worse. Can't exactly use an automated blending option then, so that's when clipping masks come into play and manually brushing them. I've had it to do it on a ton of different wheels, more than you can imagine. I know my example above is one where inner shadow would've worked fine, so maybe I should've used something else - apply layer effect one - duplicate layer > convert to smart object > apply layer effect two > set layer to 0% fill > convert to smart object > rasterize > layer mask > gradient tool or brush tool - merge layers - repeat above for all different parts left done in a jiffy There are often multiple solutions which aren't all too hard. It's just that you need to be aware of them ..........................back with a vengeance........................
sonicboom88 Posted October 19, 2014 Posted October 19, 2014 THK Would paint.net be s**t to do art? Hyper Helper Ready To Help
THK Posted October 20, 2014 Author Posted October 20, 2014 THK Would paint.net be s**t to do art? I don't understand the question ..........................back with a vengeance........................
THK Posted October 20, 2014 Author Posted October 20, 2014 THK Would paint.net be s**t to do art? I don't understand the question ..........................back with a vengeance........................
Iggy Posted October 20, 2014 Posted October 20, 2014 Hey Tim....Im thinking hes asking if Paint.net would be able to do various Hyperspin art like what Photoshop does. [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]Sega Saturn Japanese Wheel Project: COMPLETE!! If you have FTP access, find my name and grab the set now!!!
dougan78 Posted October 20, 2014 Posted October 20, 2014 I think the answer to that is if you know how to use paint.net to do most the stuff in post one or what ever it may be comparably called then yes. As a artwork noob which I am. Just playing with your program is a must to see if you can turn out some results. Otherwise photoshop is a must imho.
THK Posted October 20, 2014 Author Posted October 20, 2014 I have no clue about progs other than PS & AI unfortunately ..........................back with a vengeance........................
sonicboom88 Posted October 20, 2014 Posted October 20, 2014 yeah that's what I mean PS costs a lot and tried to get it off tpb checked my hosts file a few days later and it had loads of bad links in it pharmcy porn bank ect.. i learned how to crop from cutting familys heads out and putting it on something lol. Hyper Helper Ready To Help
THK Posted October 20, 2014 Author Posted October 20, 2014 yeah that's what I mean PS costs a lot and tried to get it off tpb checked my hosts file a few days later and it had loads of bad links in it pharmcy porn bank ect.. i learned how to crop from cutting familys heads out and putting it on something lol. I have no such an experience. I've used a student license and after that continued from CS4 to CS6 from tpb, never had any issues. I do however have script/add/pop-up blockers on my browsers, so I might not have run into them because of that. Just checked my hosts file, nothing there except for localhost ..........................back with a vengeance........................
sonicboom88 Posted October 20, 2014 Posted October 20, 2014 yeah I use adblock plus I got paranoid because it said to add stuff to my hosts file then that happend. Hyper Helper Ready To Help
DamnedRegistrations Posted October 21, 2014 Posted October 21, 2014 If you either can't afford Photoshop or are having problems getting it through "other means", then use GIMP. It's free of course. As long as it has some form of pen tool so you can cleanly cut out logos, then it should be just fine and I believe it does. I have no idea about paint.net but I think it's much more basic, more suited to simple photo editing.
sonicboom88 Posted October 23, 2014 Posted October 23, 2014 Thank's I think when i have the patience to make some art I will try other means to get it. Hyper Helper Ready To Help
Krakerman Posted October 25, 2014 Posted October 25, 2014 I use Paint.net and Paint Shop Pro X4 (This one is an older version the newer one it out which is X7 with even more features) and both work just fine.
THK Posted October 25, 2014 Author Posted October 25, 2014 I use Paint.net and Paint Shop Pro X4 (This one is an older version the newer one it out which is X7 with even more features) and both work just fine. That's all good, of course there are a couple of software programs/suites that can do the job just fine for our purposes, but I have to point out that the "self proclaimed theme guru's" knowledge base here is basically PS/AI only. ..........................back with a vengeance........................
Roadrunner Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 I'm probably the only guy on the site who uses this, but Corel's CorelDraw and Photopaint work fine for me. Totally self taught and it was a long road, but I'm actually dangerous with it now. Atari 2600 Theme Pack - Now Uploaded! Marvel Exit Screens Jukebox Rock Star Album Themes MAME Widescreen Bezels Pinball FX2 Widescreen Theme Pack Pinball FX2 4x3 Theme Pack Pinball FX3 Themes
nathan1974au Posted December 31, 2014 Posted December 31, 2014 paint net plus CS6 paint shop Two great tools! that's what i use! (Midlife crisis) some have hot rods, some have gold chains, I have arcade machine with hyperspin.
DamnedRegistrations Posted February 10, 2015 Posted February 10, 2015 As per request, here's a Photoshop tip for noise removal that I find very useful. Before After I would recommend doing the following as it does a great job at removing color noise, especially when noise removal itself doesn't do the job good enough. 1. Before even starting your pen tool selection, go to "Filter->Blur->Surface Blur..." 2. Set the radius to 3 levels then adjust the threshhold depending on amount of color noise on the cover you're working with. Try not to overdo it or it can smudge. Having some noise and grain isn't really a big deal at all. If you have already either pen cut your wheel or are cleaning a completed wheel, then do the following. I would recommend not doing this with wheels which have thick black borders though as it creates transparent pixels for some reason: 1. Hit ctrl+J on keyboard or go to layers panel, right click the main logo layer and do a duplicate layer 2. With the duplicate layer active, apply the necessary surface blur 3. Now go to layers panel and make sure the main wheel layer beneath is active 4. Hold down ctrl on keyboard and left click on this main layer thumbnail in layers panel to make a selection 5. Make the duplicate layer that you applied the surface blur to active using layer panel again 6. With any selection tool, right click anywhere on logo and select "Layer via cut" 7. Delete the two layers beneath your new layer as they are no longer required If the surface blur or noise removal methods don't work good enough, you can simply use the blur tool while zoomed. This usually works best with gradients.
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