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Please could you guys let me know whether I have everything needed for my build here as I don't want to get stung with postal/import charges twice :/

Shaker/gear motor http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-devices/shaker-gear-motor-combo-6-detail (Zeb)

LEDwiz http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-control-devices/ledwiz-detail (Zeb)

Zeb board http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-control-devices/virtual-output-kit-detail (Zeb)

RGB Light bar http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-devices/rgb-lightbar-20-detail (Zeb)

Thanks

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Please could you guys let me know whether I have everything needed for my build here as I don't want to get stung with postal/import charges twice :/

Shaker/gear motor http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-devices/shaker-gear-motor-combo-6-detail (Zeb)

LEDwiz http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-control-devices/ledwiz-detail (Zeb)

Zeb board http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-control-devices/virtual-output-kit-detail (Zeb)

RGB Light bar http://www.zebsboards.com/index.php/feedback-devices/rgb-lightbar-20-detail (Zeb)

Thanks

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Depends on what you are trying to accomplish. It is good to think about it before you place an order. Shipping is a hidden cost that can really eat into your budget.

The virtual output kit with 1 LED-Wiz gives you a very specific output layout for 32 outputs. But do you need more? A default DOF config uses 10 contactors instead of 8. You might want a second LED-Wiz.

A default DOF config uses 5 playfield flashers but do you want to be able to address events for more than 5 flashers? You may want another RGB LED bar, a booster board, and resistor board.

Do you want a beacon, a fan, and/or a chime unit? If so, you may want to add a bare booster board. If you are running a marine bilge blower for a fan like some other builders do, you may need the solid state relay.

Do you want to further simplify the connections to your LED-Wiz? You may want the LED-Wiz adapter.

Do you want to run a real plasma DMD? You might need the High Voltage Driver board.

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Count your toys.

Don't forget that an RGB LED will require three LED-Wiz outputs, one output for each color.

On your beacons, how were you wanting to use them for any event such as earning a replay? They will always running together or were you intending on controlling each beacon individually? If they will always be turned on together then you need one LED-Wiz output. If you wanted to control each beacon individually then you will need two LED-Wiz outputs, one for each fixture.

If the number of toys/outputs needed exceeds 32 then you will either need a second LED-Wiz or to scale back your design so that you can fit it to one LED-Wiz.

By the way, what kind of beacons will you be using? The kind that you plug into a wall jack or the kind that is installed in a car? Is it an old-style revolving light or a new-style LED flasher that you may find being used on emergency vehicles today? If the input voltage required is not 12V DC then you may need that solid state relay.

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I will make sure whatever i choose is 12v dc to make my life easier :)

I will have both beacons flashing together on an event occurring.

5 rgb flashers = 15 inputs

10 contactors = 10 inputs

Shaker = 1 input

Gear motor = 1 input

Beacons = 1 input

28 out of 32

Or do I have this wrong ?

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I will make sure whatever i choose is 12v dc to make my life easier :)

I will have both beacons flashing together on an event occurring.

5 rgb flashers = 15 inputs

10 contactors = 10 inputs

Shaker = 1 input

Gear motor = 1 input

Beacons = 1 input

28 out of 32

Or do I have this wrong ?

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So far, so good. And I see that an LED-Wiz adapter comes with the Virtual Output Kit so you would not need another.

What are the voltage input requirements for your contactors? The output kit you linked to was designed with "8x diode protected contactor outputs with adjustable voltage supply of 12 - 24 vdc".

There is one output - "1x 32v diode protected replay knocker output"

The remaining 23 outputs would be a user-selectable mix of 5V and 12V outputs.

Do your contactors require 12V DC or 24V DC? If 24V DC, then technically you would be short two high powered outputs. I don't think that you would want to put a contactor on the knocker output. In practice, I think that you could connect the contactor to 12V DC but it would not kick very hard. It may not kick hard enough to provide satisfactory feedback.

If you have 12 VDC contactors then everything is good. If you have 24 VDC contactors then, there is a decision to be made here. Just go with the output kit and try to drive two of those contactors at 12V DC. If you don't like it you can just take the extra contactors out of the design. One of the standard DOF configs still uses 8 contactors. Or bite the bullet and add a bare bones booster board for high output voltages. You would need to add diodes for the pair of contactors driven by the booster board, but diodes are very cheap.

There is an alternative - you could wire the two contactors directly to the flipper switches so that they always engage on a button press. This does not require control from an LED-Wiz. But it does require a separate 24V power supply to power the contactors. In the end, it's a more complicated solution that saves maybe less than $15 over just getting a booster board and using the standard config generators that are available.

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I was aiming for a setup similar to this http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?p=310163 so I will be using 8 contactors, not 10. Will my list cover this setup?

Thanks for helping btw :)

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Yes, if your list of toys is eight contactors, shaker/gear motor, two 12 VDC beacons, 1 RGB LED light bar, then I can't think of anything else that you have to add from Zeb.

There is still remaining space in your set-up to order from Zeb a set or two of his strobe panels. A lot of people use these in their builds. It is possible to get these cheaper on Ebay even considering shipping from another source.

Any reason why no knocker? That's a toy that most builders would call a must have.

The link you gave also includes connections for front panel button lighting which is a nice effect. Others also add an undercab RGB light strip. In the classic designs all these toys winds up being the limit of what you can do with 32 outputs. Without adding additional control boards, to add a new toy means having to take one out.

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I will add a knocker into the mix, as for the rgb under cab lighting, that will be controlled independently via remote as I'm sure I read somewhere there are complications when trying to run a long strip of leds via the led wiz, something to do with the power consumption iirc.

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I will add a knocker into the mix, as for the rgb under cab lighting, that will be controlled independently via remote as I'm sure I read somewhere there are complications when trying to run a long strip of leds via the led wiz, something to do with the power consumption iirc.

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Led strip - well, that's what the Zeb board is designed to do, to drive an output current beyond what the LED-Wiz is capable of driving by itself. Shouldn't be a problem to wire in an LED strip to the output kit.

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Led strip - well, that's what the Zeb board is designed to do, to drive an output current beyond what the LED-Wiz is capable of driving by itself. Shouldn't be a problem to wire in an LED strip to the output kit.

Ooooooh, that'll do nicely :)

It's going to be like something out of close encounters of the third kind.

What event would you link to under cab lighting?

I thought it was more for decoration.

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So...

5 rgb flashers

8 contactors

2 strobes

2 beacons (Flash together)

1 knocker

1 Under cab lighting

Front lit buttons (4, I think)

That's all 32 used up, correct?

As you can tell I'm more gungho than a planner, only this time it could work out expensive if I get it wrong :)

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I'm running:

8 x Contactors

5 x RGB Strip

Strobes

Shaker / Gear Motor from Zeb.. which is awesome btw ;)

4 x Front of cab lights

Replay Knocker

All from zebs virtual output kit which pretty much fills it up as far as the LEDWiz goes. I think there is one output free. I bought the clear flipper buttons with RGB lights also but for the sake of adding another LEDWiz I think I'm just going to hook up them up so they just light up. Not gonna see them when you're playing anyway.

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If you take the coin and exit buttons out of the mix you have 2 extra ports (they don't flash with the default setups anyway). Drop the extra ball flashing option as well and you then have 3 outputs needed for undercab/flipper lighting.

Any output on the board will switch any voltage from 2v-48v regardless of how I have them laid out on the board. The outputs just have the typical voltages used for the toys supplied beside them but that voltage doesn't have to be used. all that is required if you use a different output for a load like a contactor is to make sure that an external diode is installed across the terminals as using the exit button output (for example) has no diode protection installed on the board and using the spare output (again for example) has the diode shunted to 12v (if you were switching 24v with it you wouldn't be getting a direct path to blocking the feedback).

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