DeeGor Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Your local radioshack should carry some. They don't sell just the 4007's by themselves, but if you buy the mixed rectifier diode pack, they come with (5) 4007's and a bunch of other various diodes for around $3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Quick question Ben, The tutorial shows a diode on the shaker leads. Isn't the motor already shielded from the LedWiz by the H-Bridge ? Reason I ask is because I didn't add one. If I want to add one now, it's a whole lot of work, since that shakermotor and bridge are buried deep in the dark dungeons of my cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 install diodes always as much close as possible on the motor/coils, otherwise the cable to the ledwiz or h-bridge could cause interferences. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Yeah I am afraid you should have a diode on the shaker Numiah. The dual H bridge is would be getting hit with the back voltage spike from the motor when it shuts down. The LEDwiz is protected by the Dual H but the Dual H is not protected from the motor. I cannot find anything inbuit on the schematic for the DFRobot Dual H board that protects it so an external one would be needed. :afraid: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Thanks guys, I'll start working on entering the dungeons One could expect from a motor driver to be able to cope with the fact that when power stops running towards the motor and it has some "after spin", it will generate some power huh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Its a problem with driving an inductive load with a solid state device. From what I have read, some of the Dual H bridges have 'flyback' diodes built in but I could not find anything in the data sheet from the ones we are getting from Wolfsoft to say they had the diodes. Worse thing is the more I read about it, the more its saying we should be using a fast recovery diode like a IN5416 rather than a IN4007.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arngrim Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Hello, Don't know if it's the right post for my question, I bought the Williams coin door, and I try to understand all the wires in it. What represents the part on the up left corner of the picture below? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Slam tilt switch for when someone kicks the coin door it will tilt the game. Hopefully you will not need that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Its a problem with driving an inductive load with a solid state device. From what I have read, some of the Dual H bridges have 'flyback' diodes built in but I could not find anything in the data sheet from the ones we are getting from Wolfsoft to say they had the diodes.Worse thing is the more I read about it, the more its saying we should be using a fast recovery diode like a IN5416 rather than a IN4007.... Now this is getting interesting ! Link Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 (edited) Its a problem with driving an inductive load with a solid state device. From what I have read, some of the Dual H bridges have 'flyback' diodes built in but I could not find anything in the data sheet from the ones we are getting from Wolfsoft to say they had the diodes.Worse thing is the more I read about it, the more its saying we should be using a fast recovery diode like a IN5416 rather than a IN4007.... Correct me if I'm wrong but the wolfsoft bridges are the robotshop (DFI) bridges. If so, don't stress about it....here's the info you need on these bridges...... http://www.robotshop.com/ca/dfrobot-4-8-46v-2a-dual-motor-controller-2.html High speed recovery diode is built in. The L298n chip on the board: http://en.pudn.com/downloads182/doc/detail849113_en.html Edited January 27, 2012 by zebulon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Well, some of us (including me) are usig cheap China-ware. (Wolf is out of stock atm) So I guess it wouldn't hurt to add another FRED for safety. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted January 28, 2012 Share Posted January 28, 2012 The diodes are built into the ic, but you're right, better to be safe than sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Ahh, ok.Here are the relays I have. I just looked it up and it says they support up to 125AC. These should work fine. Thanks! Would a relay like you linked to work for the contactors, even if they fire often? I have 24v contactors , but would like to switch them with 12v so I can spread the contactors across different banks on the led wiz. Do these have any lag and/or should I consider other relays? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Would a relay like you linked to work for the contactors, even if they fire often? I have 24v contactors , but would like to switch them with 12v so I can spread the contactors across different banks on the led wiz. Do these have any lag and/or should I consider other relays? I'm not sure, I haven't tried it myself. I only use a relay for my knocker right now, though I was using them for the pull type solenoids when I was running with those, and I didn't notice any delay with them. Though, I never used them as flipper buttons, just slingshots. The relays are pretty cheap, so if they didn't work out for you, you'd only be out a few dollars. Might be worth the risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I'm not sure, I haven't tried it myself.I only use a relay for my knocker right now, though I was using them for the pull type solenoids when I was running with those, and I didn't notice any delay with them. Though, I never used them as flipper buttons, just slingshots. The relays are pretty cheap, so if they didn't work out for you, you'd only be out a few dollars. Might be worth the risk. Thanks for the info. I was considering trying one of the relay boards that is on ebay. They have one that is 16 ports for $30 which would be enough to drive 8 contactors as well as the wiper and knocker if it works. I guess I could try out a single one first and see how it goes before buying the board. I'll give it a shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 Thanks for the info.I was considering trying one of the relay boards that is on ebay. They have one that is 16 ports for $30 which would be enough to drive 8 contactors as well as the wiper and knocker if it works. I guess I could try out a single one first and see how it goes before buying the board. I'll give it a shot If you are using a LedWiz make sure the board can accept a 0 volt input. Like this board and it is on sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280798074049 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 If you are using a LedWiz make sure the board can accept a 0 volt input.Like this board and it is on sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280798074049 What part of the spec indicates 0 volt input? This was the board I was looking at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16-Channel-12V-Relay-Module-Interface-Board-Arduino-PIC-ARM-DSP-PLC-/170745300786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c1368732#ht_4032wt_952 Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 What part of the spec indicates 0 volt input? This was the board I was looking at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16-Channel-12V-Relay-Module-Interface-Board-Arduino-PIC-ARM-DSP-PLC-/170745300786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c1368732#ht_4032wt_952Thanks. • Dual Application for either HIGH/TRUE (1) digital logic or LOW/FALSE (0) digital logic. • Wide voltage range for HIGH/TRUE logic inputs. LOW/FALSE logic. I looked at your link and there is no language there that would indicate that it will work with a LedWiz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 • Dual Application for either HIGH/TRUE (1) digital logic or LOW/FALSE (0) digital logic. • Wide voltage range for HIGH/TRUE logic inputs. LOW/FALSE logic. I looked at your link and there is no language there that would indicate that it will work with a LedWiz. Ok, so low/false (0) logic is what we are looking for. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted January 30, 2012 Author Share Posted January 30, 2012 Would a relay like you linked to work for the contactors, even if they fire often? I have 24v contactors , but would like to switch them with 12v so I can spread the contactors across different banks on the led wiz. Do these have any lag and/or should I consider other relays? Takedown, I have emailed Grovy Game Gear about using different voltages off the LEDwiz banks of outputs to see if its approved. I have used 24 volts on a couple of outputs with 12 volt on the + supply on my cab without a problem but I am reluctant to say its ok without hearing from the tech guys. The + connection on the LEDwiz is to allow a back emf to dissipate through the connected circuit, but as long as you are connecting diodes on your contactor A1 - A2 terminals, I cannot see a problem. Will post the GGG reply when I get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 That'd be awesome if that works out, then I would only need a smaller relay board for some of the other toys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I guess they are too slow, especially for fast bumper movements. measure the amps of your 24v contactors, if < 500mA you can use it directly on your ledwiz (also 8 on 1 bank)... but put some heatsinks on your driverchips. this way you have no additional lag and no speed problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I was using relays with 24 VDC PULL-TYPE SOLENOID (allelectronics). They do not keep up with fast bumper movements. I am switching to 24v contactors controlled by LedWiz. 24 VDC PULL-TYPE SOLENOID work great for slings and I am going to keep using them for that they sound very close to the real thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 I was using relays with 24 VDC PULL-TYPE SOLENOID (allelectronics). They do not keep up with fast bumper movements. I am switching to 24v contactors controlled by LedWiz. 24 VDC PULL-TYPE SOLENOID work great for slings and I am going to keep using them for that they sound very close to the real thing. Will you be using contactors only for the flippers and the pull solenoids for all others? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 30, 2012 Share Posted January 30, 2012 If you are using a LedWiz make sure the board can accept a 0 volt input.Like this board and it is on sale. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280798074049 Thanks for the catch on this, heard back from the seller and they indicated that it cannot work with 0 volt input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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