freezy Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Very nice! Looking forward to more eye candy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hmmmm....together and working and work comes to a halt.... a sad but familiar story.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 1, 2013 Author Share Posted March 1, 2013 Thanks freezy! Zeb, I'm making a ton of progress while away! Got a lot of the electrical stuff sorted out and I should post a new batch of pics over the weekend I tested the RGBs under the colored light domes and I'm glad to report that it makes almost no difference at all! The brightness of the RGBs is so intense that the colors show through the colored domes with very small interference. Green light under purple dome, red light under yellow, yellow under purple, no problem at all! And my RGBs are not even that great (Chinese ones I got from eBay). I'll be replacing them though, because I got one DOA and the other got the red color busted. I decided to get the 4-contact ones this time around, to avoid daisy chain. Much more straight forward this way. The aluminum bar is completely assembled and modular thanks to two 12-pin molex. I got many things working, including the flipper and slingshot contactors (but I'm still working on a mod that will allow me to use real pop bumper metal parts attached to the rest of the contactors so I can get some sweet metallic sounds!), the knocker (which sounds AWESOME!), most buttons etc. I also managed to find a very cool, super cheap and very reliable solution for the open door detection that will always give you a single click and it works just PERFECT! Get yourself one of those: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2039 Wire it to common and NO, use two spacers and fix it right by the metal latch on the inner/bottom side of the coin door. The "V" will be pointing down and the switch will be activated everytime you open or close the door. No double click, no need for additional boards, no need to tweak software. It just works! I'll be posting detailed pictures showing how it's mounted, angle etc. Next on my plate is to assemble the shaker/wiper motors into a nice little platform+dome, get the pop bumper contactor combo assembled, wire the plasma DMD to both transformers+pinDMD2+DMD power board, replace the current RGBs, finish up the artwork (that will take some time). Overall, the progress is coming nicely and I'm learning a lot in the process, thanks to guys like Zeb and mameman. Pics coming soon! -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Here's some of the progress on the wiring, shaker+gear motor assembly, back box wiring, my solution for open door sensor using a "v" type micro-switch, back tray, knocker, Zeb's AWESOME booster boards etc etc etc. The RGB bar is basically done as well, but I'll be replacing two defective RGBs this week, before I can install it and run a video demo with all the stuff that is already working. Behind the speaker panel: DMD power board mounted, 12v, 5v, ground ready, DMD interface cable assembled and pinDMD2 waiting as well. Only thing left is the 80v transformer I'm waiting to build the remaining connector with the high voltages. I'll be adding an acrylic cover for the DMD power board and some nice sticker about the high voltages, no doubt: Back main on/off installed and working: Back of the cabinet with custom sticker applied: Knocker installed and it sounds LOUD! Love it Back tray: Tray out: The next three pics show the open door micro-switch in action. I still need to add another spacer to keep it in place, although it doesn't move the way it is, but over time it might: Wiring porn. I still need to cleanup some more, but it's very good to have all this open space. I might add a coin box, dunno: Zeb's speed control board, shaker and gear motors. I assembled them in a more compact way. I built my own base and used a baseball display acrylic box to fully enclose the shaker and painted the base and the gear motor according to the rest of the machine's color scheme: Things already working: Knocker Gear motor Shaker motor Flipper and Slingshot contactors Fully wired and functional coin door, including open door switch, slam, coin mechanisms, 4 buttons Push buttons + LEDs Main and under the cabinet on/off swithes Sound System In terms of wiring, there are only a few things left: - wire the 4 remaining contactors used on the top playfield. I'm modifying them to add metal sounds by using real pop bumper parts. Lets hope it will work. - wire/install the mercury switches I just got - replace the defective RGBs - wire the 80v and the 100v transformers to the DMD power board so I can finally fire up my real plasma DMD (still waiting on the 80v transformer, probably for another 2-3 weeks...) - Do some more wiring cleanup, mostly on the power cords section. I think I'm about 90-95% done on the cabinet now (not counting artwork). -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikekim Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Nice work Kris. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Looks awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 mikekim and DeeGor, thank you so much guys. In case someone is interested on mounting options for graphics cards, I got one of these: http://www.mountainmods.com/mountain-mods-modular-io-panel-p-486.html It's a 22.00 bucks back I/O panel, so you don't need to get a whole cabinet or mount the card using other methods. It's a pretty cool little piece and the mobo+NVidia combo feels solid using this little panel. -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottpe Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Kris, how did you wire/power the knocker? Is it tied into Zeb's board? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Kris, how did you wire/power the knocker? Is it tied into Zeb's board? Exactly! Zeb's power board is awesome. It has inputs for just about everything (I would like to get more input's for additional front buttons though, since 4 is not enough for my machine). Btw Zeb, if you see this message, is it possible to plug more than one push buttom/led to each of the 4 existent inputs? Lets pretend I had 8 push buttom/led. Would be possible to plug two LEDs per channel or this would be too much for the board? Back to the knocker, I thought that the voltage would not be enough to produce a loud knock, but boy was I wrong! Freaking loud, super sweet knock! -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottpe Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Antropus, if they are just 5v or 12v LEDs, I think you can just tap them straight into the 5v/12v from your computer power supply without having to go through Zebulon's boards (unless I'm missing something here). That's how I have my MAME rig done: 5v in from the ATX PS into a terminal block where all the LED power wires tap in, and the other LED leads go to my LEDWiz to control the on/off. That being said, if Zeb's board will allow more than one LED to an output, that's probably easier for you to implement at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 Nevermind my previous noobie question Seems like it's totally ok to plug multiple leads to a single ledwiz input. I just need one additional light as it stands now. I will probably just double one of the buttons to add animated light to the 5th one. Thanks! -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boogies2 Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Wow - VERY Impressive - super clean! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thank you very much, boogies2! Someone asked me about the plastic stand-offs I'm using in my machine. I decided to share the info here in case someone else is looking for the same thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARCADE-PCB-MOUNTING-FEET-PACK-OF-12-FEET-1-SCREW-PER-FOOT-/390394460091?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item5ae552b7bb Cheers, -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viriiguy Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 Looking good there mate!!! I was just looking thru your list of work done, professionally.. Very impressive stuff there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Thank you, viriiguy!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 I forgot to mention. To anyone interested in running a standard, real plasma DMD, I started a thread over the VPforums and we got that covered over there. I'm still waiting on the final parts, but "in theory" it shouldn't be a problem Here's the link: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=23249 And here the text extracted from my first post: I started this topic because the information is a little scattered and most people are searching for the easier, safer, uncluttered way, which is simply using a LED DMD instead of a plasma. But since I'm one of those few who really want to be able to run a plasma DMD, I hope this topic will serve as a general reference guide to all of those looking for similar info. I'll post references of everything I find related and I hope people do the same. If we compile enough information here, at the end we can surely come up with a step-by-step, fool proof manual explaining how it can be done, parts needed, things to be aware of etc. I hope the electrical geniuses out there can help us out with this! Here's my research so far: Resources: pinDMD2 driver board - used to send info from pinmame to the display: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=21194 (can be ordered from virtuapin.net) Stern Display Power Board: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=565 Alternative: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2828 Stern Power Supply Schematic: http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/BATMAN_SGM/BATMAN_SEC5_CHP4_PT4_DPS.pdf Stern Wiring Reference: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/d/d2/Stern_WS_DMD_PSU.JPG WPC Transformer Voltages: http://iobium.com/wpc_transformers.htm More on Williams Voltages necessary to power the DMD: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/63796-13-tech-williams-transformer-voltages Necessary connectors: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1600 http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1599 Plasma DMD ready for shipping: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=164 Vishay APD-128G032 specs: http://www.vishay.com/docs/37006/apd128g.pdf Visual Reference: http://www.silverball-magic.com/smagic/my-machines/sttng_newdmd2.jpg How do I get those voltages? 1) 5v, 12v and ground straight from a computer PSU 2) 120v to 80v step-down transformer: http://edcorusa.com/p/619/xpwr026_120 (cost:$20.01) 3) 120v to 100v step-down transformer: http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/product_info.php?category_id=10016468&products_id=10061420 (cost: US $ 19.99) The connection between the display and the pinDMD2 is as simple as plugging a single 14-pin cable. The tricky part is to feed the correct voltages to the display power board. Here's what I gathered as some of the main differences between LED and PLASMA DMDs: LED DMDs:The best: Vishay (other brands available, most segmented, meaning empty visible lines running across the display) DMD Price LEE-128G032B (segmented - the cheapest): $279.95 DMD Price LEE-128G032-1 (unsegmented - the closest to a plasma): $543.89 How it's driven: pinDMD2 Power Source: pinDMD2 via USB Voltage: 5v pinDMD2 Price: $89.95 Look: looks good, sometimes too bright or not as bright as the plasmas, just different. It has visible segments (unless you spend a lot of money on the unsegmented version). Not quite the same as the original plasmas if you're looking for the "authentic look". Footprint: very little, basically just the DMD, the very tiny pinDMD2 and an USB cable. Life span: very long Total cost: $369.90 (with segmented LED - 8x8 LED light blocks, meaning visible lines) Total cost: $633.84 (with unsegmented LED - evenly spaced LED lights, like the plasmas) Plasma DMDs:The best: Vishay DMD Price: $159.95 How it's driven: pinDMD2 Power Source: Computer PSU + 2 transformers + Display Power Board Cost of both transformers (120v to 100v and 120v to 80v): $40.00 Cost of the Power Board: $39.95 Voltages: 100v, 80v, 12v, 5v pinDMD2 Price: $89.95 Look: doesn't get any better than this. It's the original display used in dozens of machines. Footprint: needs additional space for both transformers, the display power board and extra wiring. The 120v to 100v plugs directly to the outlet, so in reality you just need extra space for the 120v to 80v transformer+case and the display power board. These are the dimensions of the transformer, so make sure you have space in the cab: 3.25" (L) x 2.1" (W) x 1.94" (H) Life span: long, around 12 years or more (I believe the one in my Monster Bash is original and the machine is about 15 years old. Still looks great) Total cost: $329.85 (+fuse and other minor electronic parts for extra safety) At the end you saved about $40 in relation to the cheapest, segmented LED display, but you saved a whooping $303.99 in relation to an unsegmented LED display and you got a display that looks and feels like the original ones, because it IS an original display. More headache? Definitely! Not as clean and also got some high voltages introduced to your cab. But if you are a pinball owner already, as I am, I'm pretty aware of the high voltage running in my pinball already Besides, where's the fun without a good little challenge? If you're trying to get the best of both worlds, than you can get a real Vishay plasma DMD 12v with an integrated power supply for about $475.05 from uk.mouser.com Add to that the price of the pinDMD2 and you got to a whooping $565.00. Please, if you have any more information on this subject, feel free to post, including some much needed schematics. Thanks! -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 I went with this DMD piggy to power the display: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2828 Cheers, -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russdx Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 so your waiting for the 80v transformer? what about the 100v input are you just putting your usa(110v?) straight from mains into this input? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 No, I got a cheapo Japanese transformer, 120v to 100v. I measured 102v out of it, so it should be ok The 80v is made on demand and it takes about 5 weeks... so, still another two weeks to go :-/ -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russdx Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 i see, if its a custom transformer can they make one with a 80v tap and a 100v tap? then you just need one transformer? (maybe even have a 12v/5v tap as well then one transformer does it all ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 5, 2013 Author Share Posted March 5, 2013 Your idea is actually great. They didn't have this option on their list though. It's not a custom transformer, it's something they have listed but is only built on demand. I wonder if they would make one like you said, like a custom order. That would be perfect -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoccoC Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Kris, I'm curious about how your backbox lock works. When locked, does the latch just sit flush on top of the backbox glass, preventing it from being lifted out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russdx Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 custom transformer with 100,80,12,5 winds would be perfect. because you would just need this + that cool little plasma power board you found and you have a complete plasma power solution and if we had enough transformers made we could get them pretty cheap could make a nice little transparent vacuum form box for it all as well (with all the high power stickers), it would look really smart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 custom transformer with 100,80,12,5 winds would be perfect. because you would just need this + that cool little plasma power board you found and you have a complete plasma power solution and if we had enough transformers made we could get them pretty cheap could make a nice little transparent vacuum form box for it all as well (with all the high power stickers), it would look really smart Ha! I JUST posted this over the VPForums: Zeb, here are some interesting news:Based on a question by Russ over the hyperpin forums I sent an email to the company making the 80v transformer, asking if they could make one single transformer that could output all the necessary voltages (5v, 12, 80v and 100v). Here's what they said: We would need to know the current draw for each voltage. Soooooo... it's probably very possible! Do you happen to know the precise numbers for each voltage? As soon as I get the precise info I'll send it straight to them and keep my fingers crossed that the price will not be absurd If someone else knows those numbers, feel free to post here. Once I have this info I'll send to them and ask how much would cost to make a batch of 10, for example. -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antropus Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Kris, I'm curious about how your backbox lock works. When locked, does the latch just sit flush on top of the backbox glass, preventing it from being lifted out? Correct. The latch is deep, but there's still plenty of room for the glass go up. So you lift it until it touches the top of the box then release it until it touches the H channel on top of the speaker panel. Lock it an done! The glass was cut to have very little room for moving once the latch is in place. Also, because the TV bezel is right there, the latch cannot be locked into a 90 degree position, so I changed it to lock at 45 degrees and it works perfectly. -Kris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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