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jamaster14

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About jamaster14

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  • Birthday 12/07/1978
  1. if you do and need any help or have any questions feel free to ask. i also have some spare parts laying around i can send you if you need them.
  2. he doesnt have any set prices on his site. He Charged me $180 for mine. which included the paint and also sanding down the edges and making all my cuts super clean and perfect. the paint is like a new car shine, the pictures dont do it justice.
  3. Here are some pictures of the final product, after i had it painted by customnes guy:
  4. So i have a ligitech usb keyboard and an NES30 gamepad. the keyboard controls hyperspin and works great when luanched in windows. the NES30 gamepad works great with jnes when launched from hyperspin through windows. but neither the gamepad nor the keyboard work when i have my computer boot directly to hyperspin (i.e. shelled, explorer isnt launched). if i exit hyperspin, go into explorer, and launch HS again everything works. has anyone run into this before? is there something i can set in HL or HLHQ to load these?
  5. you could easily mount a plexiglass motherboard mount to the bottom of the case if you routed out the "T" section. I originally wanted to use a similar mount, but did not want to remove that 'T' section as it leaves an open hole in the bottom, so i decided to just add the standoffs and mount to that. I use this logitech keyboard/trackpad combo... http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=&cs=04&sku=A7837773&ST=pla&dgc=ST&cid=262075&lid=4742361&acd=1230980794501410 Small and works great for a living room setup. do you have 2 NES30's set up with hyperspin? i've had trouble getting 2 to work and stay connected after reboots?
  6. I've tested it with N64 and PS1. i have not tried anything higher then that, although my guess is the video card/processor could handle it.
  7. If anyone needs it, I have the following hardware left over: 1 - Red LED 2 - Nintnedo Power/Reset button assebmly (the one shown above with no PC board/wiring attached) ? - A bunch of the Phobya front panel cables 1 - Bottom half of an NES case, gutted, in great condition with the gamepad and power/reset button sockets and wiring in tact 1 - nintendo, gutted, with the back cut out (probably no use unless you need some scrap plastic from it) any of it is yours for free.... for the NES cases id ask for the cost of shipping, if you just need the button assembly and small stuff id ship that to you for free
  8. It is powered using a 19v A/C Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-3-42A-Watt-Replacement-Adapter/dp/B006RIMS9U This specific motherboard can use a traditional ATX power supply, or a 19v adapter, that was one of the reasons on settled on that motherboard, so I didn't need to worry about a power supply inside the case: http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/AM1H-ITX/
  9. Yea, the rubber stuff and glue combined was like $7 and I think it makes a pretty big difference.
  10. If anyone is interested, I finished building the NES PC, here is a tutorial on it all and the finished product: http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?38317-NES-PC-Build-Tutorial&p=358911#post358911
  11. Once I finish painting i'll post some before/after photos and maybe a video of it booting up in hyperspin with my NES intro video.... This project was ALOT of fun. I encourage anyone who has thought about making an NESPC to go forward with it, with the new mini and micro ITX motherboard it is alot easier and things fit without nearly as much modification. I also have a lot of parts and cases and wires if anyone is looking for stuff I can donate it to you. Would also be glad to answer any questions.
  12. 5: Finishing Touches While everything is now installed and fully functional, it just seemed wrong to leave the box looking like it belonged in a dumpster. The first step was to clean up the back of the case. While the motherboard plate fit really nice, the rough edges of the dremmel cuts were a real eye sore: To remedy this I used some screen door spline to make a rubber bezel around the back plate. The flat rubber spline works great for this, it lays flat, is easy to work with, and has the perfect width to cover up the jagged cuts from the dremmel. I simply glued it to the back of the case using some crazy glue: Once all 4 sides were securely on, I used a razor blade and cut the rubber bezel where the case comes apart so I could easily remove the top and bottom of the case. Here is the finished product: now that everything has more of a factory look, the last thing that is left is to give it a fresh coat of paint. I debated long over whether to give it the original paint color or not and ultimately decided to paint it a glossy black with red lettering. I went this route since my build wasn't really meant to make this a stealth build, but to stay true to the original Nintendo case without much exterior modification but to also give it a pretty badass look at the same time. I'm currently attempting to paint this myself, although after seeing some of the work that Custom NES guy does, I may just send it out to him as his work is really flawless.
  13. 4: Wiring & Power modifications Since I am using wireless bluetooth game pads, there was not much wiring modification needed. All that needed to be modified was the Power/Reset button assembly. I did run in to some trouble here, as the corner of my motherboard ran into the area where the reset button was. This meant I had to Cut the back of the reset button and would not be able to use it. Thankfully 1) I could still use the button it self for aesthetic reasons and 2) the reset button is not used/critical for use of the PC. The stock power assemble comes connected to a PC board and soldered. Since I had to cut the board where the connection points were, soldering it from there became impossible. Instead, I purchased a new power/reset button assembly which came without the board intact and instead had the copper leads exposed making it much easier to solder the headers to: I purchased some front panel header extension cables and stripped one end of them to expose the copper. I then soldered the Power switch header cables to the power button. Additionally I soldered the power LED+ and Power LED- header cables to the ends of the LED light, which just pops right into the assembly: This left us with a working power button and LED light with motherboard headers on the other end that could easily be plugged in and removed: At this point, all we needed to do was screw the Power/Reset button assembly back onto the case and connect all the header, SATA, and power connectors: This leaves us with a fully functional and fully installed computer inside of the NES case which can be powered on using the factory NES power button. We are basically done! Now all we need is the finishing touches to make this thing look as awesome on the outside as it is on the inside...
  14. 3: Installing Computer Hardware Before installing the actual computer components, I needed something that would both hold them in place and allow me to make easy modifactions later or to swap out any components that may need to be replaced in the future. That meant securing The motherboard in place and installing a hard drive bay. First, I needed to install some 10mm motherboard Standoffs, so I could secure the motherboard down with some screws while allowing easy installation and removal. To do this I lined up the motherboard in place and marked where the 4 screw holes would go on the bottom of the NES case. I then drilled 4 small holes in the bottom of the case and secured the standoffs in places with washers and screws as shown here: Next, To house the hard drive we need to isntall a hard drive bay so that our hard drive can easily be installed and removed or upgraded while being held securely in place. To do this I modified this 3.5" to 2.5" hard drive bracket by cutting off the excess sides, leaving us with just a 2.5" bracket. I then drilled 2 holes through the side of the bracket and through the bottom of the case. I stood the bracket vertical and secured it to the NES using screws and nuts similar to how we installed the standoffs: At this point, all that was left to install the computer components was to screw the components down and install the memory/processor as you normally would: Next up, we will need to do all of the wiring and electrical modifications...
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