bluc Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Hey all have started building my Bartop cab and am wondering if someone can point me in the direction of a 28mm hole Saw that will cut both acrylic and mdf my control panel is going to have an acrylic overlay and I want to clamp the mdf and acrylic together and drill through both at same time. Cheers and thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 There are many different types of drills you can use for Lexan/Perspex/Acrylic etc. I've done it with a simple spade bit. Some people like the speed borers. All comes Dow to how much yo want to spend on your bit. Personally the spade bit worked fine. Had a couple of issues when I was doing some work on some small bits of Lexan during my testing but once I started work on the large sheets it was fine. Basic trick is to buy a couple of sheets practice cutting and drilling etc and then use that same confidence with the real stuff. If you like I also had a couple of great links on how to flame polish Lexan which after much practice I got pretty good at. The edges got hidden on his cab anyway but when I added a black light thread along the edge of the thing it made the entire control panel glow much better than when we tested it with the crappy edges. Please note that I was doing this work for a mate building his cab. I was bought up on a 1200 acre farm with a family owned sawmill on it so I know a lot about wood and tools and crap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 Yes my old man was a cabinetmaker he gives me heaps help and pointers. I have heard sandwich the acrylic between two sheets wood also works. Having trouble finding a 28mm hole saw they all seem to be 29mm, that would most likely be fine anyway, have never cut or drilled acrylic before and have heard it can be brittle Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 One other question when joining the cabinet is there any need for a screwing through full thickness when working with MDF will partial thickness and glueing be strong enough for a bartop? Would save some bogging and sanding if I didn't have to screw right through the panels for strength. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhanded2 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I never use a hole saw to cut acrylic. I cut all the holes I need in the wood with my hole saw, I clamp the acrylic on the piece, and then I use a flush trim router bit to cut the holes in the acrylic. No chance at cracking it like you have with a hole saw, much faster, and easier. I drill a pilot hole with my drill in each button hole location, insert the router but, and let it do the work for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhanded2 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I found some pics online to help explain how I do it and shamelessly stole them for here. These are not my pictures. This IS the safest way to cut the holes in acrylic/lexan. Any other way and melting/cracking is a possibility. This is the flush trim bit. Here is a pre-drilled control panel. You can even go ahead and apply the control panel overlay now, and then cut the acrylic. The but will trim the holes in the cpo as needed. Then you clamp the acrylic onto your top. Drill pilot holes so that the flush trim bit will go through them. You can use smaller bits than needed if you are worried about cracking the acrylic and step up gradually. Just adds some time to the process. Get the smallest flush trim bit you can. The bearing on the bottom of the bit traces the hole in the wood and makes a perfect cut into the acrylic. Fast, easy, simple, safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhanded2 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 Glue is stronger than screws, but that said, i always add a few screws when gluing. Peace of mind I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukensteinz Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I've found a 27mm holesaw cuts at 28mm due to wobble and teeth flare. Usually... For perspex I prefer a spade bit. On mdf, you really need to either drill from both sides, or clamp it to scrap. Some people swear by a forstner bit for mdf too. I only use a hole saw for steel now. They clog up to easily with mdf Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drnick Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 I'm one of those that will swear by Forstener bits, I used on both Wood and Lexan, Although IMHO The router method for the acrylic is the best method. http://www.justtools.com.au/prod5805.htmForstener bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 I'm one of those that will swear by Forstener bits, I used on both Wood and Lexan, Although IMHO The router method for the acrylic is the best method. http://www.justtools.com.au/prod5805.htmForstener bit That was the name I was trying to think of http://www.fine-tools.com/fisch-forstnerbohrer.html That is like the one we used. Kept calling it a speed borer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njgsx96 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Another vote here for Forstner bit. I used this for my arcade and it was flawless for drilling holes. I also used scrap when drilling and cutting the plexiglass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somail Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Another vote here for Forstner bit. I used this for my arcade and it was flawless for drilling holes. I also used scrap when drilling and cutting the plexiglass. Forstner +1. I'll never go back to a hole saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukensteinz Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Can anyone vouch for using a forstner to do holes by hand? My drill press is too shallow to do most control panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connorsdad Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I found some pics online to help explain how I do it and shamelessly stole them for here. These are not my pictures. This IS the safest way to cut the holes in acrylic/lexan. Any other way and melting/cracking is a possibility.This is the flush trim bit. Here is a pre-drilled control panel. You can even go ahead and apply the control panel overlay now, and then cut the acrylic. The but will trim the holes in the cpo as needed. Then you clamp the acrylic onto your top. Drill pilot holes so that the flush trim bit will go through them. You can use smaller bits than needed if you are worried about cracking the acrylic and step up gradually. Just adds some time to the process. Get the smallest flush trim bit you can. The bearing on the bottom of the bit traces the hole in the wood and makes a perfect cut into the acrylic. Fast, easy, simple, safe. Exactly the same prodedure as I used to make the control panel for G4D. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhanded2 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 I prefer Forstner bits for drilling holes in wood for a number of reasons, but 1 being you never get the wood stuck in them like you can with a hole saw. That makes everything take longer when you have to stop and fight to get the center of the hole you just cut out of the hole saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
connorsdad Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Funny enough I have done this today (bartop in progress) One thing to watch out for is the bearing falling to bits and not realising, this happened to me today, took an extra 3mm off my plexi The button surround should just about cover it. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drnick Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Can anyone vouch for using a forstner to do holes by hand? My drill press is too shallow to do most control panels. Yep, I did all mine by hand along with a spirit level. You can get a drill guide failrly cheap though. http://www.carbatec.co.nz/portable-drill-guide_c21832 (Which is a lot better then the one I have which is more like the one below) http://www.bunnings.com.au/sontax-43mm-collar-drill-guide_p6350091 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukensteinz Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Yep, I did all mine by hand along with a spirit level. You can get a drill guide failrly cheap though. http://www.carbatec.co.nz/portable-drill-guide_c21832 (Which is a lot better then the one I have which is more like the one below) http://www.bunnings.com.au/sontax-43mm-collar-drill-guide_p6350091 Awesome. I can get carbatec through my family biz, Techweld, in PN. Sent from my LT26w using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Bought my drill bit it looks a lot like the old style orga bits cuts very neat hole ? another question, the control panel where it meets the front piece I want to radius the front corner so I can bend some lexan round it. Any idea how to join it? Thinking use epoxy glue it together then once set put in some dowels then run router along edge any thoughts on this. I plan to put up a weorklog when closer to complete. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Bought my drill bit it looks a lot like the old style orga bits cuts very neat hole another question, the control panel where it meets the front piece I want to radius the front corner so I can bend some lexan round it. Any idea how to join it? Thinking use epoxy glue it together then once set put in some dowels then run router along edge any thoughts on this. I plan to put up a weorklog when closer to complete. Wouldn't happen to be the Speedbor bit like these? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/390755395356?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=94 I'm a fan of making joints in timber but that is very time consuming and majorly OCD. What did you intend using the epoxy glue on? One thing to keep in mind with any glue used on Lexan is if the glue will cause any discolouration or hazing on the surface of the plastic. If it is putting a curve on the edge of your control panel it depends on how you have joined the timber and what size dowels etc you intend to use. Can get a little tricky. Can you show us what you mean? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Yep that's the drill bit I bought. The epoxy I was going to use on the control panel not the lexan but where the control panel (horizontal piece) meets the front panel at bottom(vertical bit). Just that after I route a radius on the front edge there is no way to screw the to pieces together because of the radius. I have to rely on glue. So if I put couple gusetts and a couple dowels and use epoxy I should end up with a good strong joint. see red arrow in picture below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Most epoxy are a two part glue. These can tend to go brittle over time. Liquid nails is my preference for a harder bond for wood. With most builds like this you would have internal boards that did most of the work of holding the pieces in place as pictured here http://www.koenigs.dk/mame/eng/stepweecade.htm This allows you to be able to route the corner you have to a large radius without issue. That looks like 16mm MDF so you could eve get away with a 8mm radius curve on that if you are mounting the boards as seen above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Yea I have the same blocks as seen in your link, I am also putting piano hinge on it so the control panel pivots forward for access to the inside of control panel to bottom of buttons and joysticks and electronics, it is fully supported while closed but need it to be strong while opened. My concern is the join along the front not being strong enough and failing 2-3 years down the track. Although The control panel wont be opened much I dont want to have to build a new control panel because of the front join in the timber fails. see pick below to see what I mean by having it pivot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluc Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Polemicist you say I could get away with an 8mm radius. Would 8mm be enough for 4.5mm lexan to bend round? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polemicist Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 You really need to watch Youtube more. Here is Lexan being bent with a heat gun Flame polishing lexan Good little set on forming lexan And one of the reasons I have no dramas using a Spade bit or even a Forstner bit on Lexan is explained quite well here: http://plasticsfabrication.blogspot.com.au/ Very good resource. Great videos. If you have the time you can change drill bits to suite drilling Lexan but overall like most of the posts above me you can get away with many types of tools. Can I just recommend using very sharp tools and not cheap crap. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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