bill55 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 I am hoping to get everything else installed on the empty spot on the board. 12v power supply, 24 power supply, dual H-bridge, and IPac. I think that's about everything then. Unless I'm forgetting something. I'll get more pics of misc things I got done as well. Forgot to take pics of a few. I'll try and get those after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Here's a couple pics of the backbox mounted with the bezel and everything installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil eye Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Looks very good man. I think I'm also going to borrow that LED WIZ wiring layout. What kind of wire is that? And did you solder the wire to the quick disconnects? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 I used 18 gauge wire like this. (LINK) I just crimped the quick disconnects on after stripping a little off the end of the wire. I used a tool like this for the crimping of the disconnects. (LINK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 I love the backbox look great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 nice, shinny me likes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zen74 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Looking great. Love the wiring tray... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Thanks guys. At least I feel like all the question and answer prior to me starting was worth it. (for me at least) I am totally happy with the look of the backbox. Much cleaner than I expected. Props to Mameman for that backglass idea. Looks really nice. Not sure where to go next. I'll probably start mounting the contactors soon. Any tips on location? Couple other things too: 1. Should I mount the knocker at the front of the cab? Since it is only getting 24v power. Not 48? 2. Should the shaker motor be in the front too? 3. As far as a power switch goes. I want it on the bottom of the cab. I wanted a normal hard flip switch of some type. Not just a soft press like a pc power button. Will that work or no? My idea was wiring that button directly to the motherboard power switch connector and have the pc power trigger the whole game to turn on. Wasn't sure if I could use a switch like that or if that's a bad idea? Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundaypinball Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 1. Should I mount the knocker at the front of the cab? Since it is only getting 24v power. Not 48? My knocker (real gottlieb part) is also powered at 24volt. SInce the kick is inferior to the real thing, I think I will mount it on center of one side the cab, to have the best sound resonance as possible. Just a theorical thought. On your question #3, I 'm also interested since I want to re-use my original gottlieb hardswitch too. Congrats for your building so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 Here is a switch on saw on Chris's Big Bang Pin. How is something like this being wired to power everything on? (or isn't it?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Syco54645 Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Here is a switch on saw on Chris's Big Bang Pin. How is something like this being wired to power everything on? (or isn't it?) I have a switch like that on my arcade machine. I cheated by connecting the switch to the power switch on the computer and then plugging everything into a green power switch (in my case just the arcade machines psu) as a slave with the computer as master. Hit the button and the computer turns on with the arcade psu a fraction of a second later. works really well. i intend to do that with my pin as well. Something like this would fit the bill http://www.walmart.com/ip/CyberPower-7050SG-7-Outlet-Surge-Protector/14968093?findingMethod=rr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 1. Should I mount the knocker at the front of the cab? Since it is only getting 24v power. Not 48? 2. Should the shaker motor be in the front too? I mounted my knocker in the front of the cab where the metal plate is attached to the same wall as the coin door. I would NOT recommend doing this. It's ok for the most part, but the knock sounds a little off due to the coin door. I will probably keep it in the front, but move it so it strikes one of the side walls instead. As for the shaker, it probably doesn't matter where you place it. Those things will shake the crap out of your cabinet wherever you place it. I put mine towards the front because I had the extra space there. Just make sure it's not right next to your nudge sensor, otherwise you'll be tilting like crazy every time it goes off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Good tip DeeGor. I'll be sure not to mount it on the front cabinet panel. Is the backbox a bad idea? That's where most (if not all) are in real pins. Is it just too quiet with the lower power? Ordered this from Amazon for my power strip: LINK I just realized I still have not bought my speakers. I got the backbox speakers, but nothing else. I am still so up in the air with what to get. hmmmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 The best thing to do is to mount it and try it. You don't need to do a full implementation on the wiring. Just connect it directly to the power supply. You will not get an authentic sounding knock, because the voltage just isn't there, but it should still sound pretty good. The power strip looks good. I like the one I have, but it didn't have enough controlled ports. I actually had to make a mini extension cord to get everything plugged in. 5 should be good enough for what you're looking to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebarlow99 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Alright....Really made some nice progress this weekend. Got the bezel finished off and mounted as you can see in my previous post. Also got the backbox mounted with the hinges on the cab (pics to come on that one). Had to re-size my back door just a hair so it didn't rub the top when opening and closing. Also got started on my wiring!I decided not to try and get everything crammed on the pullout tray I have. I am leaving just the computer and power supply on that. I am using a 2nd board for all my other wiring. That board will sit on the bottom of the cabinet below the pullout PC tray. I wanted everything installed on a separate piece of wood and not just mounted to the cabinet bottom so I could pull it out to work on it if need be. (I will use 9-pin molex connectors to allow me to disconnect the entire wiring board so it can be removed. I can then screw the whole board down inside the cab to prevent it from moving at all. Got the wire duct, fuse holders, and LED-Wiz mounted. Just starting to get each of them wired. Trying to keep it as neat as possible. Screwed each fuse holder down with a 1/2" screw. Used the female quick disconnects on each wire to connect to the fuse holders. I ran all the wires from the top connections under the LED-Wiz board and into the wire duct. Kept it look really neat! (Stole Zen's idea). All the fuse holders wired. I also got the resistors soldered for the LED's. love your wiring..might have to upick up some wire duct.....looks great!! keep up the great work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xagesz Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Shit I hope i can wire like this. Never really tried a full scale job. this will be first attempt. : Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 The wiring I've done so far isn't hard. It's just time consuming trying to keep it neat. And I am totally OCD with stuff like that so having it messy is not an option. I'm still not exactly sure how everything else is wired. I'll figure that out as I go. (hopefully) lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil eye Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks for those links, will pick up that wire soon. And please keep posting pics as you figure out the rest of the wiring, we have a lot of parts in common and I too am OCD with stuff like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Thanks for those links, will pick up that wire soon. And please keep posting pics as you figure out the rest of the wiring, we have a lot of parts in common and I too am OCD with stuff like this. Will do. I'll take a bunch of pics and try to get as much detail as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebarlow99 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 me too..just bought some wire duct also...like the look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 OK...time for some updates. Have been working slow and steady, but things are coming along nicely. Let's start with my mistake I made this week. I wanted to get the LED's for my flipper buttons installed. I did a little searching online and found someone that used the same buttons and LED's for a custom joystick. Here is a pic of how he mounted them: I drilled a hole in each side of the switch mounting on the bottom of the button and fished the wires through, then hot glued them for stability. This worked perfect. What didn't work perfect was the fact that I am using leaf switches and the person who did this was using regular cherry switches. The leaf switches sit almost flush with the bottom of the button. Having the led board and wires crossing made it too thick to get the leaf switch to fit. After a little frustration of not trying the switches in there before the hot glue, I needed a solution. Neatly picking off the hot glue was not an option. That stuff adhered way too well to the button plastic. I cut all 4 wires off and removed the LED board. I then re-soldered the 4 wires to the LED board. Not a huge deal. The leaf switch fit fairly well without the wires crossing over the back of the led board. Still not perfect though. You can see in this pic that the center of the LED board stands off farther than the rest does. I decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the button. That allowed that center part of the LED to actually go into the button and gave me just a little more room when mounting the leaf switch. This worked really well. Here is the LED board mounted in the button before the leaf switch goes on. With the leaf switch installed. Well that was my flipper LED drama. Not horrible, but certainly could have went smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 On to the shaker motor..... Got the bore hub's installed. Ready to mount in the cab. Here are the conduit hangers that I used. Link is on my parts list. Got it mounted in the cab. I needed a case for it. Just in case one of the bore hubs come flying off during use or something like that. I don't want parts flying into my screen or the computer or something. I decided to get a piece of 1/2" x 4" pine and a piece of plexi to make the enclosure out of. I wanted to be able to see the motor inside so I got a piece of 8x10 plexi at Lowe's and had them cut it in half for me. I drilled a hole in one of the sides to rout the wires in. I used a couple drywall screws coming from the bottom of the cab to secure the enclosure. I had to make it removable in case I need to get at it. Check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 I am going to use a regular HAPP button for the power to everything. This will wire directly to the PC motherboard power switch connector. When the PC powers on it will cause the other outlets on the power strip to activate. That should turn on everything else in the cab. When the PC shuts down everything else will power off with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Contactor's...... I went with a layout similar to what Chriz99 (and probably many others) have used. Here is a pic of his layout. Left flipper and slingshot contactor's. Left center. Here you can see all 8 contactor's installed. The back top will be pretty much right behind the LED panel. The lower back is at the bottom right below my smaller exhaust fan. Right flipper and slingshot contactor's. The entire left side. Ran some wire duct down each side of the cab to help keep things in order. Wiring is these should be soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Made a little more progress on my wiring as well. I am running all the LED-Wiz connections to 9-pin molex connectors. This will make it much easier to fix something since the entire wiring board will be removable from the cab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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