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bill55

Indiana Jones and the Pinball Crusade (46/28/15) build project

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bill55, I'm glad I'm reading this thread as it's happening. You're giving me an idea, time-wise, as to what it takes to accomplish such a build. I really wanted to build one of these as a new project, but with the laundry list of expensive parts and wiring difficulty, I'm gonna hold of until I've got a couple more mame cabs under my belt, or at least a LOT more research.

I really love the documentation, I think that's my favorite part about your posts and many others on this site. I'm really learning from your experience.

THANKS!

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It's definitely time consuming and I've done a good job of not pushing myself to rush through it. :proud: Normally my OCD side kicks in and I start pushing myself to get too much done, too fast. I end up taking all the fun out of it and just add in a lot more frustration. There is no doubt I could have had this done by now, but I've taken my time and its been better because of it.

I was considering another MAME cab down the road after I'm done with this. Maybe this fall.

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bill55, I'm glad I'm reading this thread as it's happening. You're giving me an idea, time-wise, as to what it takes to accomplish such a build. I really wanted to build one of these as a new project, but with the laundry list of expensive parts and wiring difficulty, I'm gonna hold of until I've got a couple more mame cabs under my belt, or at least a LOT more research.

I really love the documentation, I think that's my favorite part about your posts and many others on this site. I'm really learning from your experience.

THANKS!

I originally started my build over 6 months ago and completely stalled, until coming across Bill's build thread. While there are many other great threads, for some reason I hooked onto his. The first-post laundry linked list was absolutely great. I won't even bother posting my build into a thread, because all I have to do is post a link that says "See Bill55's Thread".

If it is the wiring and costs keeping you back, I suggest that you simply build without any of the force feedback goodies. They can always be added later. Given the momentum on the 'LED-Wiz alternative' thread, waiting on that might not be a bad idea anyway. You could easily get by with nothing but a PC and the cheaper ipac, it would be super simple to implement. No extra power supplies, relays, resistors, contactors, motors, shakers, etc... just the minimum buttons required (10 maybe?). And I suspect the PC does not need to be near the power-house many users are building.

Good Luck!

-Matt

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My playfield glass came in today. (fingers crossed that it fits correctly!)

Have the day off tomorrow so I'm hoping to get my LED panel made. After that it's just about time to get this thing going.

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Hi Bill,

I see you are using 15 resistors, 3 for each of the 5 Crees.

I noticed you have RGB lights for the flippers and the front buttons are to be lit also. All these other lights/leds going to be controlled or just "on"(?). If they are to be controlled, would they not need the resistor also? If just 'on', what was the point of the flipper button lights being RGB?

If I am figuring correctly, you are using maybe 25 of the 32 LED-Wiz outputs?

edit: Oh- and how do you plan on driving the 'car/truck' strobe flasher bank, a relay?

edited for clarity.

Thanks,

Matt

re-edit: I guess the lack of answer denotes these question to be to dense to warrant response (or Bill is tired of seeing my name :-) ). I read up on the link for the flipper RGB and see that the resistor is built in, so no need. Another thread shows that the strobe light does not need a relay or resistor either.

Edited by mattdavis

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Here is my Dual H Bridge wiring. This look correct?

I used this pin to the Dual H Bridge since my LED's are on ports 1-15. This look right?

post-27857-142870575299_thumb.jpg

Here is my Dual H Bridge labeled.

post-27857-142870575302_thumb.jpg

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Got to work on the LED panel this weekend.

Got the holes cut for the Cree's. LED strobe panels will go on each end. I used 1/2" MDF so the Light caps would stick through further.

post-27857-142870575306_thumb.jpg

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With the LED strobe panels on the ends.

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Edited by bill55

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The light caps screwed in from the back side.

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From the front with all 5 in.

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Wiring the CREE Led's.

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I zip tied the wires on the back of the heatsink to help keep things neater.

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Testing out the CREE's. Quick note. I decided to power one up so I could figure out which connections were for blue and which was for green. I couldn't tell by looking at it. Well I apparently had my head in my butt because I neglected to use the resistors when testing this. lol. ooops. So I now have 1 fried LED. :stupido2: Could have been worse I guess.

Here's some pics of it on. Had to take pics from the side. Was blinding me camera.

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Thanks maxxsinner for spending some time with my last week. I appreciate the electrical help! :five:

Flipper LED's tested and working.

post-27857-142870575337_thumb.jpg

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Got the PC and everything powered on so I could test the LEDWiz connections and sound.

Playfield screen in and working.

post-27857-142870575344_thumb.jpg

The backglass screen is working nicely. I am getting a bit of overscan though even though I am using the native 1920x1200 resolution. Any ideas? You can sorta tell in the pic if you look at the start button being cut off. I also had to make the taskbar 3 rows tall so I could see it.

post-27857-142870575343_thumb.jpg

Edited by bill55

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Looking good Bill! How are you attaching the LED board to the heatsink? And how are you attaching the LEDbard/heat sink assembly to the LED wood panel?

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Looking good Bill! How are you attaching the LED board to the heatsink? And how are you attaching the LEDbard/heat sink assembly to the LED wood panel?

I used "Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Thermal Adhesive" to put the LED on the heatsink. It's in my parts list if you want a link to buy it. I am then going to screw the heatsink to the LED panel from the back. The heatsinks I am using have 4 screw slots on each one. I'll post some good pics when I mount them.

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i'd try dropping the res down on the back glass, don't need anything near that high given what you are displaying. 1280x1024 is enough.

Got the PC and everything powered on so I could test the LEDWiz connections and sound.

Playfield screen in and working.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15406[/ATTACH]

The backglass screen is working nicely. I am getting a bit of overscan though even though I am using the natice 1920x1200 resolution. Any ideas? You can sorta tell in the pic if you look at the start button being cut off. I also had to make the taskbar 3 rows tall so I could see it.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15405[/ATTACH]

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Thanks maxxsinner for spending some time with my last week. I appreciate the electrical help! :five:

No problems Bill. Glad I could help. :beer:

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I used "Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Thermal Adhesive" to put the LED on the heatsink. It's in my parts list if you want a link to buy it. I am then going to screw the heatsink to the LED panel from the back. The heatsinks I am using have 4 screw slots on each one. I'll post some good pics when I mount them.

Awesome, thanks! :)

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looks good in next time i made the same i wait for the powerboards from zeb

have you install for the playfield strobos the electric box (sending the signal to flash) that was come with the car strobos, or use only the strobos panel, i hope you think what i mean

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i'd try dropping the res down on the back glass, don't need anything near that high given what you are displaying. 1280x1024 is enough.

I'll give that a shot. Thanks! I just figured it was best to run the screen in it's native res so I didn't get any blurring like LCD's do when you run them at a res lower than the native one.

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looks good in next time i made the same i wait for the powerboards from zeb

have you install for the playfield strobos the electric box (sending the signal to flash) that was come with the car strobos, or use only the strobos panel, i hope you think what i mean

I just ordered a board from Zeb myself. Should have it later this week or next.

I have not wired the LED strobe panels yet. From what I have been told (and someone please correct me if this is wrong). You don't use that little controller box that they strobe panels come with. Run 12v power to the white wire and the black wire to the LEDwiz. I think you can run both in parallel off the same LEDWiz port. (Mameman.....can you confirm if this is right?)

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correct, i remove the control box and wire them both to 12v and directly to the ledwiz port on the negative side.

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correct, i remove the control box and wire them both to 12v and directly to the ledwiz port on the negative side.

You are wiring them both off the same LEDWiz port, correct? Not separate ports?

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This thread is AMAZING

I cannot believe how much information is in here. I will need to re-read it many times to understand all of the wiring. Does one wiring diagram exist that contains what you did?

Amazing job on the build. Looks great. Cannot wait to read more....

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Ok...got to spend my evening doing more wiring. Yay! (I swear this wiring never ends). lol

LED Panel is really close to being finished at this point. Got all the LED's with heatsinks mounted to the back of the panel. All wiring is complete and I got the strobe panels wired as well. Still need to permanently fasten those down.

Back of the panel with everything mounted. I ran all 5 LED's and the 2 strobe panels to 2-9 pin connectors for easy disconnect.

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Closeup of how I mounted the LED's/heatsinks to the back of the board. The wiring keeps it raised off the board a bit so keep that in mind when you are buying screws. I came up a bit short with the first ones I bought.

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Here is the wire for one of the strobes coming through. I then soldered the white wire (+12v) to the closest CREE LED for power. This way I run one +12v wire from my power supply to power all 5 CREE LED's as well as the strobe panels. (The CREE LED's and strobe panels both run off of +12v.)

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I then used a butt connector to join the 2 strobe black wires (ground) together as well as a piece of 18 AWG wire that goes to my 9-pin connector. This then connects to the LEDWiz port.

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My 9-pin connectors from the LED's and strobes.

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I put a screw in behind the strobes to raise the one size off the board. Causes it to angle inward toward the player. I'll get more pics of this after I get it mounted permanently.

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All 5 CREE's worked perfectly when I tested them. Same with the strobes.

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Edited by bill55

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