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bill55

Indiana Jones and the Pinball Crusade (46/28/15) build project

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Question that I'm sure has been answered but I can't locate it. Do I need a seperate cable for the 2nd player bank on the IPAC? Their is a ground on both sides but I can't tell if my USB will power the whole board or just the bank that it's closest to. I've got so many buttons I need to use both sides :-(

No just the one usb cable is all you need

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Great job bill, how much do you think you spent so far?

In the ballpark of $2700.

:reddy:

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It's possible that I forgot some stuff. It should be close though. Tell my girlfriend that sounds low. lol

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Trying to remember the different issues I have had over the past week or so.

  • The Windows 'Identify' numbering of the screens does NOT matter!
  • In your display properties you MUST have the screens organized as such. (Playfield on the left, Backglass in the center, and DMD on the right) Numbering means NOTHING!
  • Set your playfield display as the Primary. This is done in the display properties screen where you can move the screens around.
  • The backglass display MUST be 1280x1024. (I was unable to get any UVP backglasses to work with my native 1920x1200 res. Not sure if static backglasses would work or not.)
  • You will not get static backglasses to work unless you launch through Hyperpin. (B2S and UVP will work though even if you load right from VP).
  • Do NOT use UVP backglasses and LEDWiz together. The pin runs super slow with both active.

I'll post more as I think of them

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I agree with all points except the last one depends..... You CAN use UVP backglasses with LEDWIZ flashers.

Of course its MORE CPU intensive and will make you computer work much harder, but if you have the horsepower, you can do it.

I have tweaked the tables to get the performance I need, changing lamptimer duration and other values depending on the table and I use Windows XP.

I will say there are a few tables that even with tweaking I could not get acceptable performance, so I turned off UVP on them so I could enjoy the LEDWIZ flashers, but these are the exceptions, not the rule.

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Thanks Bill55. All except the last one are items I worked through already so hopefully that means my troubles are behind me. I haven't tried running UVP yet so this is good info to have too. Did you run into any issues with installing the Ledwiz or IPAC? This part makes me nervous...

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The IPAC is a simple install, wire the buttons, plug in the USB and setup your keyconfig with winipac cfg program.

The LEDWIZ requires more thought. I wanted to be compatible with most others so I could use the pixel tool to configure it. I have 5 LEDS and a start button configured on mine, so no solenoids (contactors, shaker,wiper). Mine is simpler than most I assume, but it still takes some time and thought to install it. Plus you have to configure each table for the flashers, solenoids but with the use of the pixelmagic webpage tool, its a breeze. You can download the configurations of others and have 120 tables working immediately. It is such a time saver.

Edited by luvthatapex

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Thanks Bill55. All except the last one are items I worked through already so hopefully that means my troubles are behind me. I haven't tried running UVP yet so this is good info to have too. Did you run into any issues with installing the Ledwiz or IPAC? This part makes me nervous...

I did run into issues with the LEDwiz. Get it working first with the test tool so you know all the outputs are working, then get it working in the pin. I could have sworn I put all the files in the right place, but I forgot the core.vbs so none of the outputs were getting activated. DeeGor had to help me out. Connected remotely to my pin and helped me figure out where it was breaking.

Make sure you use Pixelmagic's site to configure your LEDWiz and generate your ledcontrol.ini. Also get Darkfall's LEDClear and LEDSet files. It lets you set LEDWiz controls for when you are in HP. It also shuts everything off when you exit a table so nothing gets stuck on. I'll have to find links to those for you.

Bill

Edit: (Links)

Here is the thread for the FPLaunch Mod. Get this.

http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?10935-FPLaunch-MOD-Pause-and-Loading-screens

Darkfalls HP/FPLaunch LEDWiz mod.

http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=16186

Edited by bill55

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freezy requested some pics of how the backglass mounts in the backbox. I took a few pics this morning. Hopefully this helps out. Let me know if you need more detail.

I used a piece of 1/4 round on the inside-top of the backbox. This lets the glass slide up behind it to hold it in place.

post-27857-142870576014_thumb.jpg

I used a piece of 1/2" x 1/2" wood on each side to act as a guide and also give the glass a little more stability when in place. You can see the 1/4 round at the top too. The glass basically slides along the side pieces of wood and up behind the 1/4 round then drops down into the H channel on top of the speaker grill. The top of the glass is still behind the 1/4 round when it's resting in the H channel.

post-27857-142870576017_thumb.jpg

post-27857-142870576019_thumb.jpg

post-27857-142870576022_thumb.jpg

post-27857-142870576024_thumb.jpg

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I'm sure I've said this before, but this thread is beyond helpful. It should seriously be stickied for all to enjoy. Thank you all for your contributions and advice, especially you Bill55. Taking the time out of your day to write all this out with pictures to boot is no small feat.

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You are very welcome. I'd be nowhere without the help of many others around here. This is an amazing and helpful community. Glad I could give something back after all the help others have given me. If there is anything else I forgot to document in here please let me know and I'll add it in.

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Awesome!

Even though this isn't exactly relevant to my build, it's nice to have some detailed pics of the plastic channels and how to mount them

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As a sidenote....When you buy the kit from Virtuapin.net you get the 2 plastic pieces that go around the edges of the backglass. For anyone that hasn't had a real pin, those are normally used to hold the translight against the glass of the backglass. Since we aren't using a translight and are just putting the glass up in front of the TV you really don't need any of those except for the bottom and maybe the top. I didn't bother using the sides on mine.

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yea in the next two weeks i can make the electrical for my cab all pices in the house, the last one i wait for the two powerboards i hope it came in the next days, then i can start

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Ok. I just updated me wiring pics for the relays, gear, and knocker.

I deleted the old ones and replaced with the correct ones.

Here is the post that had those: (LINK)

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It's an effect that is put out automatically from the rom and through programming on the ledwiz.ini

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I did run into issues with the LEDwiz. Get it working first with the test tool so you know all the outputs are working, then get it working in the pin. I could have sworn I put all the files in the right place, but I forgot the core.vbs so none of the outputs were getting activated. DeeGor had to help me out. Connected remotely to my pin and helped me figure out where it was breaking.

Make sure you use Pixelmagic's site to configure your LEDWiz and generate your ledcontrol.ini. Also get Darkfall's LEDClear and LEDSet files. It lets you set LEDWiz controls for when you are in HP. It also shuts everything off when you exit a table so nothing gets stuck on. I'll have to find links to those for you.

Bill

Thanks! I'm almost to the point of doing this. Got everything installed but am just waiting for the shaker motor that everyone convinced me to get. I've tested all my outputs by grounding each connector at the fuse end for my ledwiz outputs and they all work so atleast I know the wiring is right. Also gave me a good opportunity to che the amps before officially connecting to the ledwiz (putting the fuses in). IPAC sounds easy. I've got my file from the pixelmagic site so hopefully I can just get the files where they need to go now. Thanks again.

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One other tip I would suggest. Get the tables working correctly without the ledwiz. After you get everything working smoothly then add the ledwiz into the mix. I've had a few strange issues with some tables and whatnot. I just changed my video drivers, but also disabled the ledwiz for now. Now that I'm getting the tables working I'll add the ledwiz back in and see if it all stays working. It makes it easier to figure out what's going wrong.

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I am using your parts list for my lighting. How in the world do you connect wires to the Cree LEDs? You don't solder them do you? It seems like there should be another piece with a ring around it with better connection points.

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I am using your parts list for my lighting. How in the world do you connect wires to the Cree LEDs? You don't solder them do you? It seems like there should be another piece with a ring around it with better connection points.

You solder them.

post-27857-142870576053_thumb.jpg

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