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scottpe

STAR WARS: Pinball Unleashed - 46"/32"/DMD Widebody Build

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Simple question for you, did you free hand your button/flipper holes with fostner bits, or use some type of jig?

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Simple question for you, did you free hand your button/flipper holes with fostner bits, or use some type of jig?

I actually used a spade bit, and yes I did them free hand. But if you want to recess the buttons at all, you'll need to use a forstner bit. I think you could that free hand too if you take it slow. Practice on a piece of scrap wood before you do the real thing... ;)

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Wow, it's been a while since I updated my build thread! Was on vacation for a couple weeks and also diverted my attention to some real life stuff for a bit. But in between all that I still managed to reach some major milestones on the build.

So, to catch things up...

I debated earlier in the build whether I wanted to do backbox hinges. After much deliberation I decided that I would rather not obscure the artwork with hinges just to try to accommodate the very rare occasion where this thing will need to be transported. Instead I opted to simply use brackets and wingnuts to allow for easy dis-assembly. So removing the backbox is as simple as unplugging the cables inside it and unscrewing the wingnuts. There's one of these brackets on each side.

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Next I tackled the light bar. I sandwiched two 1/2" MDF panels together, one because I wanted the lights to be very recessed and secondly to fill the gap at the back where the play field meets the light bar.

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Drilled the holes for the flasher caps using a 1 1/8" spade bit, then hand routed recesses for the screw tabs. Then just primed and painted it using a foam roller and brush.

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The heatsinks on my Cree flashers do not have mounting screw holes, so I had needed a retainer to mount the LEDs to the light bar. These are basically just blocks with holes recessed to hold the heatsinks. The flasher cap got screwed on and then the whole assembly was attached to the light bar.

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Finished product:

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Originally I had also planned to include the strobes on the light bar. After I thought about it, I decided that I didn't want those things beaming me in the face. So I mounted them just under the front of the cab so they shine down by the player's feet. That way you still get the effect of the strobes without the blindness. My plan is to pick up another pair of them and mount them on the back side of the backbox. You'll also notice in the pic that the under-cabinet accent lighting is installed. The accent lighting is RGB and is totally configurable using an included remote control. I have it set up to smoothly fade between colors.

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Next up was the glass for the backbox. For this I just purchased a sheet of glass from Home Depot and had my Mom, who does stained glass, size it for me. I decided to paint on the bezel. For that I just masked off the edges, cleaned the glass with alcohol and painted it using a foam roller and black latex.

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And then wiring...lots of it. It would have been much worse though without Zebulon's boards.

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I wanted to be sure everything was functioning properly before I started bundling wire and making it all look pretty. That's still on the to-do list.

Started the installation of the gamepad PCB for the nudge functionality. After disassembly is when I came to the realization that the gameport to USB adapter was missing from the package. D'oh! To solve that I ordered a Belkin F3U200-08INCH from Amazon, which I just received UPDATE: this cable didn't work for me unfortunately...apparently you have to use the cable that actually comes with it. This part of the install is to be continued.

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So currently the machine is 100% playable. All lighting and force feedback options are working perfectly. It's amazing how much that stuff adds to the gameplay experience! When the lights, sounds and feedback are all working together in concert, it's simply fantastic.

A few pics of the almost-finished product.

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Will probably post a video of it all in action soon... :)

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Thanks guys!

Russ, thanks again to you for your great invention (PinDMD) which makes some of the magic happen. :)

And Chris, your pin was a big inspiration for me. Thank you for being among the first to blaze these trails. :beer:

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Awesome work ;)

I have a question about your crees, how do you make them hold on their holes?

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I would like to see the other side of this pic if you have one?

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Wow...looks really nice...Great work!!!

I will start my project soon. Can't wait to have my own ;]

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Wow thats just stunning

Thank you! :)

Awesome work ;)

I have a question about your crees, how do you make them hold on their holes? I would like to see the other side of this pic if you have one?

Thanks arngrim. The holes don't go all the way through. The depth of the holes is drilled to the same thickness as the heatsink. So the flasher/heatsink is effectively held in by the flasher cap and then wedged between the mount and the light bar. If you still need a visual, I can try to take a shot of it. EDIT: just to clarify further, there is a slightly smaller hole that IS drilled all the way through, to expose the heat sink on the back side. Otherwise it wouldn't do a very good job of dissipating heat. ;) So basically the two holes create a lip on the back that holds the heat sink in.

Wow...looks really nice...Great work!!! I will start my project soon. Can't wait to have my own ;]

Thanks for the compliment. Good luck on your project!

Looking great! How are you liking the tv? How is the quality?

Thank you! Love the TV...image is really good, it remembers its power state, super easy to de-case, nice and thin, and has the built-in black bezel even after de-casing. It seems to be pretty much tailor made for this purpose. :)

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Amazing work Scottpe!

I would recommend to apply the layback settings from the B2S table.

Less screen will be used, but the game proportions will be enhanced!

You should have a try! :)

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Scott,

On your Samsung backglass and playfield do you get the HDMI1 1920x1080 message when switching between tables?

Z

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Hey Z,

When you say 'switching between tables' not sure if you mean browsing between them in Hyperspin or actually launching them, but in either case, the answer is no. Are you sure your resolutions are setup correctly between Windows and the various pinball apps?

--Scott

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Awesome cab scottpe! The force is strong with this one; sorry couldn't resist. What a great build. Seeing it makes me get back on the fence about the old school charm of the traditional cabs. I'll be going with a P2K cab but seeing this video makes me want one like yours.

The artwork is fantastic, the DMD zoom in is great and I love the colored lights underneath and behind the cab. Put it all together and it's terrific.

I hope I get to see it at next year's Texas Pinball Festival. I'll be bringing mine to the party. Thanks man!!

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@dfwArcade Thanks for the compliments bud. And regarding the artwork, I'm a big fan of your works, so that means a lot coming from you. :)

I might consider taking the machine to the TPF. Will just have to see what's up when the time comes. Hopefully I'll see ya around sometime regardless.

Take care.

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Awesome job on the cab!! I can't see any of your build pics? They all have a photo bucket thing in each one. Am i the only one who sees this??

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