Guest gstav Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 It´s not the voltage really but the ampere drawn from the LEDwiz that is to worry about. 500mA for one output is stated to be max, but with less activity to the other outputs it may put up with a bit more. Think the knocker coil draws much more than 500mA, so you have to protect your LEDwiz with a relay even if you want to give the knocker 12V. Have not measured the ampere though, but I trust Chris on this as he have done the same! Here´s a simple diagram for the 12V: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 can you confirm i need this relay? http://shop.conrad.nl/502817.html Also this is all? no diode needed etc? just wire it like you showed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gstav Posted March 15, 2011 Share Posted March 15, 2011 I´m not an expert on what type could be used but that relay seems to have the same spec needed! Maybe Chris could chip in on this just to be sure! You DO need a diode as allways when coils and motors are in the equation. But if you have the 23-800 there´s one diode there all ready. Here´s a better pic of it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 thx for your help gstav I ordered the relay from wolfsoft so i know i have the correct one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Ok i got my replay knocker today but there is no diode between plus and minus which one do i need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted March 22, 2011 Share Posted March 22, 2011 I use a 1n4007 diode for the knocker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 23, 2011 Author Share Posted March 23, 2011 thx chris i ordered them yesterday should be a breeze to install ! now only to wait on my relay but klaus will not respond to my emails about my payment yet.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
murflex Posted March 24, 2011 Share Posted March 24, 2011 Looking very good man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 24, 2011 Author Share Posted March 24, 2011 thx !... it sure was a long build but i really enjoy it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 Noob question: Does it matter which side of the diode goes where on the coil connections? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted March 25, 2011 Share Posted March 25, 2011 if you mount it the other way, the magic smoke that subsides in the diode will escape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted March 25, 2011 Author Share Posted March 25, 2011 thx numiah ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 Finally got around installing the knocker: The sleeve is upside down in this movie right? the plastic thing knockers the wood/metal ? Gj3baYtOi_k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gstav Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 hope so, cuz that's how I mounted mine! - Plastic agains wood = winning! - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 awesome, where did you buy that knocker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hicks100 Posted May 25, 2011 Share Posted May 25, 2011 Yep thats the same type of knocker i bought. http://www.pinballheaven.co.uk/shop/product_info.php?products_id=899&osCsid=a50e169c22d96282f22bfc58a146bd1d Mount the same as your holding it, but i fixed an L bracket above it then glued some wood onto the bracket (it didnt sound right hitting the metal bracket directly) Works great but i reckon you might want more than 12v. I feel mine needs a little more thwack to make it sound authentic (our at least as authentic as i remember them), ill get around to upping it to 24v at some point. you can get a small 24v psu of ebay for very little, but you will need a 24v finder relay and not the 12v one. You might wanna look into that if you havnt got the 12v finder yet. looking great njay! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted May 25, 2011 Author Share Posted May 25, 2011 awesome, where did you buy that knocker? here is the link chriz http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=708&parent=136 @ Hicks Thanks for the tip maybe someday i will do it but it's a mini cabinet and the wack is very loud already. Someday i will clear all the wire mess i made now and will add the 24v psu then Next up: Adding 2 more rgb flashers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 So i finally have some upcoming vacation and it's time to finish here Ordered: 2x Clear flasher dome 4x RGB Leds Project: Re-Wire complete cabinet --> I will use UTP Network cable to cable all the flashers etc to have one wire per two flashers going to the ledwiz Add 2 more flashers on top of the cabinet backbox to complete a 5 flasher setup Add 2 RGB Flipper buttons This should keep me going for a while , will post pics when i get all the stuff inhouse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 I used UTP Cat-5 too. I know Maxx isn't a fan of using UTP Anyway... there are two kinds of UTP. Ones with solid core wires and ones with 'stringed' wires. I used the latter. Easy to manipulate, enough to handle low currents for flashers, buttons and contactors and easy to solder. The solid core is no good and tend to break if you manhandle it to much. Mind you UTP is not good to use for shakers and higher current toys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 I used UTP Cat-5 too.I know Maxx isn't a fan of using UTP Anyway... there are two kinds of UTP. Ones with solid core wires and ones with 'stringed' wires. LMAO. God the secret is out...... Stranded core UTP is normaly for patch leads or CAT6 Numiah and should be fine. ( I dont have the pure hatred for it as I do the solid core ) The solid core is finer than most hook up cable and I found breaks too easy for jobs like this. Both types are rated for just under an amp per pair. Trying to sneak through a recommendation for using UTP... Shame on you Numiah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 LOL Don't forget use RGB Button LEDS as flashers for my mini pin !! So very low voltages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Alright here a few pics showing the mess i made of the inside : I removed the LCD from the backbox because at first i did not attach the speakers to anything so when moving the cabinet one speaker fell down early when i first build it. So this time i had some sticky foam i used to secure the speakers to the sides: Et viola: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Uh oh.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Hey I warned you Numiah... Looks good Njay. Prob worth investing in a packet of cable ties though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njay Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 Yup i did should all come in this week !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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