rockyrocket Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Hi, i need some advice, I only have room for two contractors or maybe at a push four so would like to have all events trigger the contractors, so many outputs from the ledwiz to one contractor is this possible or will every strike cause my flippers to trigger?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 During multiball it would be impossible to isolate the contactors from the outputs, the flipper action combined with the bumpers and slingshots would hold them on (you'd get no feedback and most likely burn out the led wiz). Short answer....I wouldn't try it myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 With two contactors you'd only need two outputs from your ledwiz. Just configure your ledcontrol.ini to send all needed actions to those two ports. No risk of burning your ledwiz. But with only two contactors, chances are if you hold one of your flipperbuttons, the contactor stays on, meaning you won't hear any other effects that were meant to be sent to that contactor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Think i will just use two for flippers then and turn the sub up!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 The two contactors for the flippers can at least be used for the slingshots, ball release etc. That way you have some real cool feedback with only two contactors and none of them 'overlap' each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 the other problem is that you can hear, locate and feel the contactors... so it may feel weird when all action goes to 2 front contactors... do it right from the start - you won't regret.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierdo Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 During multiball it would be impossible to isolate the contactors from the outputs, the flipper action combined with the bumpers and slingshots would hold them on (you'd get no feedback and most likely burn out the led wiz).Short answer....I wouldn't try it myself. It's not a problem. The coil in the GE contactor draws 300mW when held on per the spec sheet. If you're powering it from a separate power supply, the LEDWiz doesn't care about draw, it's just a matter of keeping the voltage below whatever will blow the output driver chip, hence the protection diode. I only have two, and when I configured it that way in PixelMagic's tool, it automagically defined everything such that the contactors fire when their respective flippers go off and a few other things in the general area. They don't go off for bumper pops or anything like that, at least on the tables I usually play. Since everything they trigger on is in the same general area of the PF, it doesn't feel weird at all. It works surprisingly well, IMO. I'll probably end up picking up a couple more and a replay knocker, but not until I get my cab painted and everything. I'm half toying with the idea of a few flashers up top, but it's not something I feel a strong desire to have, given that I've already spent $3200 on the project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 It's not a problem. The coil in the GE contactor draws 300mW when held on per the spec sheet. If you're powering it from a separate power supply, the LEDWiz doesn't care about draw, Not quite right here wierdo. The LEDwiz is completing the circuit by connecting ground to the contactor through the darlington pair transitors which are rated @ 500 mW Maximum output. Anything over that will start to cook the driver chip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierdo Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Not quite right here wierdo. The LEDwiz is completing the circuit by connecting ground to the contactor through the darlington pair transitors which are rated @ 500 mW Maximum output. Anything over that will start to cook the driver chip. Perhaps I need to read the driver chip data sheet again. Either way, it's not an issue with two of the GE contactors, given the draw from their coils. (unless you hook a gaggle of them up to one bank, I guess) Everything I've read previously that referenced the 500mW figure, though, was related to the maximum current a USB port can output. Ah, yes, it's 500mA per output, not per driver chip, so about 2.5W @ 5V, 6W @ 12V, or 12W @ 24V. They're actually good up to 50 volts, although I'd be wary of running 48VDC through it since there's only a 4% margin of safety before you risk blowing the transistor from too high a voltage. They will get too hot if you run 500mA on every output at 100% duty cycle, though. Without a heatsink, two outputs at full tilt is probably the most you can safely get. Point being that these driver chips can actually take quite a lot of current. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierdo Posted September 18, 2011 Share Posted September 18, 2011 Can you take a video of those GE contactors? I'm curious as to how they sound. It's a pretty crappy cell phone video, made even worse by YT, but here you go: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 It's a pretty crappy cell phone video, made even worse by YT, but here you go: Those sound pretty good. Did you do a best offer for them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 They sound similar to the Seimens contactors. They may be a good alternative for us in the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierdo Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Those sound pretty good. Did you do a best offer for them? No, I bought them with the $29.99 listing. Just make sure to get the normally open (NO) kind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-MINIATURE-CONTACTOR-CR6ZBV-12VDC-S-S-CA4-9C-10-12D-/390163363495?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad78c76a7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wierdo Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxxsinner Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Without a heatsink, two outputs at full tilt is probably the most you can safely get.Point being that these driver chips can actually take quite a lot of current. Dead right wierdo. One of the probs with the LEDwiz is if you have VP or HP crash for any reason, the LEDwiz outputs can be locked on in thier last state and cook a driver chip in no time. And as you say, with each driver chip having a possible 8 ouputs at 500 mA, a total of 4 amps running though that chip and tracks on the PCB, something will be sure to do damage in no time at all. Although with any luck, Darkfall will be releasing some software soon to stop this being such an issue. Find an output locked on? One double click on a little batch file and she is all off. Safe as houses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Mmm, ok so what are the dimentions per unit?. My cab only has a 32" playfield and I am struggling for room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkfall Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Although with any luck, Darkfall will be releasing some software soon to stop this being such an issue. Find an output locked on? One double click on a little batch file and she is all off. Safe as houses. I've released my solution for dealing with the LEDWiz setting and clearing when browsing via HyperPin and exiting tables. You can find the official support thread and the link to the files here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 It's a pretty crappy cell phone video, made even worse by YT, but here you go: Thanks for posting this I have a set on order for my flippers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 I've released my solution for dealing with the LEDWiz setting and clearing when browsing via HyperPin and exiting tables. You can find the official support thread and the link to the files here. Great idea I will be using this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 I've released my solution for dealing with the LEDWiz setting and clearing when browsing via HyperPin and exiting tables. You can find the official support thread and the link to the files here. are you planning on releasing it in a thread over here. curious to why you released there and not here given all the work on ledwiz was done primarily on this forum? also for issue 1 you reported, was the solution to that not already present in using the hplaunch app over the hyperpin app? this is what i use to clear down the active ledwiz ports when returning to the hyperpin menu. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkfall Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 are you planning on releasing it in a thread over here. curious to why you released there and not here given all the work on ledwiz was done primarily on this forum?also for issue 1 you reported, was the solution to that not already present in using the hplaunch app over the hyperpin app? this is what i use to clear down the active ledwiz ports when returning to the hyperpin menu. I didn't want to maintain two threads, so I've only put a thread in one place. I think most people check both forums regularly anyway, so they'll find it. That, and I spend most of my time over there, it seems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted September 23, 2011 Author Share Posted September 23, 2011 Mmm, ok so what are the dimentions per unit?.My cab only has a 32" playfield and I am struggling for room. I just got mine and it is about 2" x 2" x 2" x 2" or 2” cubed pretty small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockyrocket Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I just got mine and it is about 2" x 2" x 2" x 2" or 2” cubed pretty small. Thanks, that much smaller than I thought, will try six then!. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Takedown Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 we usually use the 3RT1016 series. on the face in the bottom right corner it will be marked if they are 12 or 24v models. i'd try to stick with these as the others are an unknown. I'm finding plenty of the 3rt1016-bb41 contactors, which are 24v dc no. wolf and Maschine seem to sell the ba42 which is 12v dc nc. Does it matter whether it's no or nc? Should the ones I found work? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.