bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Question.....as far as my wiring goes. Is it bad that I have the LED's all next to each other on the LED-Wiz? I thought it would keep it neater if I did, but then forbot about spacing stuff out. Let me know if this is a bad idea or if I should be ok. Thanks! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 On to the shaker motor.....Got the bore hub's installed. Ready to mount in the cab. [ATTACH=CONFIG]14844[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]14845[/ATTACH] It looks good You will need to offset the weight some or it will shake too much. Here are the conduit hangers that I used. Link is on my parts list. [ATTACH=CONFIG]14826[/ATTACH] Got it mounted in the cab. [ATTACH=CONFIG]14827[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]14828[/ATTACH] I needed a case for it. Just in case one of the bore hubs come flying off during use or something like that. I don't want parts flying into my screen or the computer or something. I decided to get a piece of 1/2" x 4" pine and a piece of plexi to make the enclosure out of. I wanted to be able to see the motor inside so I got a piece of 8x10 plexi at Lowe's and had them cut it in half for me. I drilled a hole in one of the sides to rout the wires in. I used a couple drywall screws coming from the bottom of the cab to secure the enclosure. I had to make it removable in case I need to get at it. Check it out. [ATTACH=CONFIG]14829[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]14830[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]14831[/ATTACH] Looks good. You will need to offset the weight some or it will shake too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 I wasn't sure about that. I saw a mention of that somewhere, but they said the more you offset it the less it shakes. Since I haven't used it I wasn't sure how much it was going to shake like that. How much you think i should offset it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 I had mine the way you have it and on low intensity it won’t move. On high it is violent. Here is a picture of what I ended up with. It is great now but in the end just ¼ “ made a big difference. Just put a mark on the weight and the motor for both weights and slow adjust one of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 So it looks like you have them opposite each other. I'll adjust it tonight. Thanks again for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 They are not opposite you would see the set screw on both if that was the case. Opposite of each other =No shake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavis Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hi Bill, Regarding 3RH1140-1BB40. I noticed the auction you link to does not appear exactly as the ones in your photos. What is this raised piece (looks like a plug-in resistor?). Can you elaborate on this? Also- regarding your wiring of the Ledwiz- did you use the same assignments/wiring positions as in Chriz99's (ie; start led @1 , Left flipper @6, etc...)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 I'm not exactly sure what is it, but it's part of the contactor. Normally they sit inside the unit, but that picture just happens to show it pulled partially out. The assignments really don't matter much on the ledwiz. Pixelmagic's ledwiz config tool allows you to tailor your configuration file to match the port assignments you make. The one caveat I should note is that you do need to put the RGB assignments for each of your flashers in the correct order. For instance, if you wanted the outer left flasher to be assigned to ports 1 - 3, you would need to assign Red to port 1, Green to port 2 and Blue to port 3. This order cannot be changed within the configuration utility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zebulon Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 That's a diode.....you won't need additional diodes on contactors with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavis Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Ahhh- okay, so that is the in4007. They either come with it or you add it yourself. Thanks, Matt That's a diode.....you won't need additional diodes on contactors with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavis Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Great information, thanks. This made me think of another question I wanted to ask; I assume the point of the ~25% increase in the resistor for the red led is to dim it? I don't recall seeing reference to this in other builds, but in polling over wiring photos, I noticed it before. <snip> if you wanted the outer left flasher to be assigned to ports 1 - 3, you would need to assign Red to port 1, Green to port 2 and Blue to port 3. This order cannot be changed within the configuration utility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Typically red pulls more power than the other colors, which is why a different resistor is being used for red. You just need to make sure it doesn't exceed 500mA or the ledwiz will fry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 From my understanding Zebulon is correct about that piece on the contactor. If you use that you do not need the diode installed. It serves the same purpose. It does not go in any further than you see in the pic either. There are 2 pins on the back of that plastic piece you see that insert into the contactor. In the other pic you can see the holes where the pins go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 I do have a couple questions myself.... For the digital plunger. Is it ok if I mount the interface board that also does the nudging on the bottom of the cabinet (inside of course). I know it has to be flat. Just wasn't sure if mounting it on the bottom was good or if needed to be higher up? Anyone have of the shaker motor wired to the dual h bridge? just want to make sure I do it correctly. I'd love to see a couple good pics if possible. Thanks! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 I do have a couple questions myself....For the digital plunger. Is it ok if I mount the interface board that also does the nudging on the bottom of the cabinet (inside of course). I know it has to be flat. Just wasn't sure if mounting it on the bottom was good or if needed to be higher up? Anyone have of the shaker motor wired to the dual h bridge? just want to make sure I do it correctly. I'd love to see a couple good pics if possible. Thanks! Bill Take a picture of yours and post it they are all not the same. http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?15290-Build-log-MB-TOM-TAF/page3 look at post 27 see if that is the same as yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Here is a pic of the Dual H Bridge I got. Here is the motor. Mine has a little resistor (I think it's a resistor) between the 2 contacts. Should that be there? I have posted pics of my wiring from the LED-Wiz to fuses also if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Yes it is the same as mine the instructions are on my build. http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?15290-Build-log-MB-TOM-TAF/page3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavis Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Hi Bill, Is the only use of the 24v power supply to power the knocker? Looking at DeeGor's wiring diagram (thanks by the way!), it seems so. I have not investigated this item too much, but I would like to limit that extra complexity, if there is a good 12v alternative. When following your links for the shaker motor weights (Surplus Center), I noticed they also had this wiper motor: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=5-1767&catname= Any reason you did not go with this one? Is the VW one you chose known to provide proper 'noise', or did you just pick one randomly, or based on other recommendation? Thanks, Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 The knocker and contactors all use the 24v. I believe everything else is 12v (fans, gear, shaker, etc). I'm working on that part of my wiring right now actually. I chose the wiper motor I am using based off of what Chriz99 recommended. He could probably provide more info on why he recommended that model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 thats a nice looking wiper motor and mouting assembly, sweet deal. I had not checked what they had of late. will need to go have another snoop around and see what else is new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Has anyone mounted their mot-ion adapter on the bottom of the cab (the inside bottom of the cab)? Just wondering if that will ok or not. I'd rather not build a shelf for it closer to the playfield tv if I don't have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chriz99 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 the sound of the VW wiper motor is very nice and almost identical to the sound of real pinball gear motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Yes it is the same as mine the instructions are on my build.http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?15290-Build-log-MB-TOM-TAF/page3 Thanks! I did some labeling on my pic. Tell me if this all looks right to you: Now the only other questions I have.... 1. The soldered wire from the LEDWiz replaces me using the screw down terminal on the LEDWiz, correct? I use the soldered wire instead? 2. I have fuses between the LEDWiz and the pinball toys (contactors, led's etc). If I am using the soldered pin instead should I put the fuse on that connection? (soldered pin ------fuse------dual H bridge)? 3. Do I need to put any other fuses on the connection to or from the dual h bridge? If so, where? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks! I did some labeling on my pic. Tell me if this all looks right to you:[ATTACH=CONFIG]15014[/ATTACH] Now the only other questions I have.... 1. The soldered wire from the LEDWiz replaces me using the screw down terminal on the LEDWiz, correct? (YES) I use the soldered wire instead?(YES) 2. I have fuses between the LEDWiz and the pinball toys (contactors, led's etc). If I am using the soldered pin instead should I put the fuse on that connection? (soldered pin ------fuse------dual H bridge)? would not hurt to fuse wire going to H Bridge from LED wiz. 3. Do I need to put any other fuses on the connection to or from the dual h bridge? If so, where? (Yes Fuse the 12v to H Bridge) Thanks! Yes your picture is correct. Replies above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 Perfect! I love clear cut answers. Thanks! Gonna try and get that hooked up next. Still need to wire the ledwiz to my power supplies first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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