Pinball Electrical 101

[pinballlooking]

Will you be using contactors only for the flippers and the pull solenoids for all others?

I was using all pull solenoids and 12 v contactors for flippers only. The pull solenoids do not keep up with fast bumper movements.

I will be switching to only 3 pull solenoids two for the slings and one for the knocker.

The other 6 will be 24v contactors controlled by LedWiz.

Edited January 30, 2012 by pinballlooking

[thewool]

Hello all,

just to clarify something... I'm using a Wolfsoft Dual H bridge for my shaker. Do I still need to solder a diode between the + and - terminals, if so will an IN4007 suffice? Hope so as it's all I have.

Thanks :0)

[maxxsinner]

Thats the setup I have thewool and it has not given me any trouble thus far. Concensus is that it needs a faster switching diode but some units have the diodes built in.

If you can, solder the diode onto the shaker motor terminals.

[chriz99]

you should solder a diode directly on the shakermotor. use a 1n4007 or even better (because pwm switches ultrafast on and off) a faster UF4007 or superfast schottky diode

[thewool]

Thanks for the helpful responses gentlemen!! I read the schematic in PB101 as the grey line needs to be closest to the + terminal.

Just out of curiosity, is there an ideal spot in the cabinet to place the shaker? I was going to put mine towards the back, probably under where the castle would be on MM.

Cheers!

[chriz99]

it's no big difference on shaker intensity, so place it wherever you want/you have space.

[thewool]

Awesome, cheers for that Chris

[netdefilr]

While the wiring looks easy. I'm having a pretty tough time figuring out what parts I need and where to buy them. As there can be multiple part numbers that look almost exact.

Here's a list of parts I've acquired so far:

8 contactors (24v)

shaker

h dual bridge

led wiz

knocker

cree leds

flashers

Outside of this, I don't have anything else.

I believe I need:

1n4007 diodes (8?) http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/1N4007-T/1N4007DICT-ND/76454

Finder Relays (?)

Fuses (?)

Fuse Holders (?)

Screw in Terminals (?)

Any advice on the qty + maybe a possible source to buy them from?

[ebarlow99]

While the wiring looks easy. I'm having a pretty tough time figuring out what parts I need and where to buy them. As there can be multiple part numbers that look almost exact.

Here's a list of parts I've acquired so far:

8 contactors (24v)

shaker

h dual bridge

led wiz

knocker

cree leds

flashers

Outside of this, I don't have anything else.

I believe I need:

1n4007 diodes (8?) http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/1N4007-T/1N4007DICT-ND/76454

Finder Relays (?)

Fuses (?)

Fuse Holders (?)

Screw in Terminals (?)

Any advice on the qty + maybe a possible source to buy them from?

IN4007..i have 8 you can have yeah me!

as for the rest of the stuff..my old work...Terminal Supply in Troy has the rest

[netdefilr]

IN4007..i have 8 you can have yeah me!

as for the rest of the stuff..my old work...Terminal Supply in Troy has the rest

Thatll work. If i get the terminal blocks, fuses, fuse connector, and relays i should be all set.

[ebarlow99]

yup....time to build..let me know when you want to schedule a day to rip into it

[jadflat]

maxxsinner, thank you for this great guide, it's definitely going to come in handy

[maxxsinner]

No problem jadflat. Dont hesitate to post any questions you have either on this thread or via PM to me.

[Dazz]

Max - What is the name of the wiring labels that you use? I can't seem to find out exactly what they are called or where to purchase.

[maxxsinner]

The ones I use Dazz are Grafoplast - Part No. 102/30U with just A4 paper cut to size. There are labels you can buy for them but you need a special Brady printer,etc.

[swaffar]

what do you guys think about using these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIP-5-x-3W-LED-RGB-Chip-Changing-Full-Color-Lamp-Light-6-pin-350mA-D7-/290707195875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43af7fc7e3

i have no idea about the power rating, but would play nice with some 500mA fuses and there resistors?

http://www.arcade-electronics.com/detail.aspx?ID=17288

[maxxsinner]

Hey Swaffar

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIP-5-x-3W-LED-RGB-Chip-Changing-Full-Color-Lamp-Light-6-pin-350mA-D7-/290707195875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43af7fc7e3

These LEDs are nice, but you would be a lot better off if you can find ones that are already soldered to a start chip like this one -

Otherwise there is a lot more work involved with buying the star pads and soldering them on.

[swaffar]

i didn't even notice they were the same, minus the chip... this is becoming frustrating... i really want 5 rgb leds (high power but not cree... too powerful) plus two of those auto led strobes that chris has. my cab is small so those would be hidden, but light up the wall behind or under the cab. the wiz booster board looks great, but only supplies 16 outputs.

if i went with three rgb's that's 9 outputs, i could share the strobes and that's 10, leaving 6 for contactors or solenoids or whatever for feedback.... what do you guys recommend?

[zebulon]

No problem jadflat. Dont hesitate to post any questions you have either on this thread or via PM to me.

'So if a plane left Seattle carrying 500 lbs of melons, and a train left Toronto (Canwegia) carrying 500lbs of beaver pelts and each was travelling 120mph, >>>>>how soon would the martians take over the earth?

[maxxsinner]

3 and a half minutes.

Almost stuffed that one up. Forgot to carry the two......

[Thommo]

[zebulon]

[Spektre99]

i didn't even notice they were the same, minus the chip... this is becoming frustrating... i really want 5 rgb leds (high power but not cree... too powerful) plus two of those auto led strobes that chris has. my cab is small so those would be hidden, but light up the wall behind or under the cab. the wiz booster board looks great, but only supplies 16 outputs.

if i went with three rgb's that's 9 outputs, i could share the strobes and that's 10, leaving 6 for contactors or solenoids or whatever for feedback.... what do you guys recommend?

I'm using a Zebuon's booster board which gives 16 high power outputs and 16 low. I am going to use 1W/LED (3W RGB) LEDs. They seem quite bright enough.

The high power channels are going for replay knocker x 1, flipper solenoids x 2, other feedback solenoids x 6, RGB flipper buttons and ambient lighting x 3. large fan x1, strobex1

[maxxsinner]

i didn't even notice they were the same, minus the chip... this is becoming frustrating... i really want 5 rgb leds (high power but not cree... too powerful) plus two of those auto led strobes that chris has. my cab is small so those would be hidden, but light up the wall behind or under the cab. the wiz booster board looks great, but only supplies 16 outputs.

if i went with three rgb's that's 9 outputs, i could share the strobes and that's 10, leaving 6 for contactors or solenoids or whatever for feedback.... what do you guys recommend?

Sorry swaffar I missed your question...

I'm using a Zebuon's booster board which gives 16 high power outputs and 16 low. I am going to use 1W/LED (3W RGB) LEDs. They seem quite bright enough.

The high power channels are going for replay knocker x 1, flipper solenoids x 2, other feedback solenoids x 6, RGB flipper buttons and ambient lighting x 3. large fan x1, strobex1

Spektre's setup looks quite good. You shouldn't need to use the high powered boards for the contactors (would have to confirm with a amp meter but most are below the LEDwiz 500ma) so that would leave you some spare high power slots to play with. A replay knocker is pretty cheap and love what it adds to a cab personally, but when it comes down to 'what bling do I need?', it's up to the person. If your using solenoids, they may have to be connected to the booster board.

[rockyrocket]

Hi, so I thought that I would share a quick button mod that I`ve just finished.

Having a couple spare contactors and a mame cab with pinball buttons it was decided that this should get the contactors connected directly to the buttons.

I know that other ways to do this exist, but this seemed the easiest way to not have any delay between button press and flipper action.

The micro leaf micro switches from GGG are much narrower than normal ones and I had some spare so just bonded two together with a small piece of plastic across the arm, then fitted them to a GGG electric ice.

These particular buttons have screw fittings for the micro leaf so fitted perfectly once the other side was removed, anyway a picture speaks a thousand words...