root88 Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 You solder them. [ATTACH=CONFIG]16232[/ATTACH] Cool, thanks. That just seems so sloppy. Not the soldering work in the pic, just the setup itself. I guess you can't see it with a cap on top, but I know what is under there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 One other update. I was having some strange problems. The ball would seem 'floaty' to me at times. It would get near the flippers and kind of be slower. It wasn't all the time though. I could exit a table and load another and it might be fine. Or I might load 5 in a row that do it. It was weird. DeeGor suggested it could be a video driver issue. I was using the newest NVIDIA drivers. So I changed the drivers to the 270.61 drivers and I also disabled the LEDwiz in the core.vbs file. I figured it was best to just take it out of the equation until everything was running perfectly. So I did a clean install of the new drivers and loaded some tables up in VP directly. No LEDwiz. All worked perfectly. No 'floaty' ball or slowness or anything. After about 10 tables I loaded 5 or so from within HP and they still played perfect. Then I added the LEDwiz back into the mix. Only tried the tables through HP at this point. I tried about 5 or so and all worked correctly. No more of the problems I was having. So I am hoping the driver solved all my issues. MAJOR thanks to DeeGor for the quick help on that one and saving me from suffering through hours of trial and error. For anyone going through their PC setup I would recommend these drivers right out of the gate. Here you go: http://www.nvidia.com/object/winxp-270.61-whql-driver.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeGor Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 I'm glad you got it all working. These drivers work great with VP, but I've been having problems getting the backglass in FP working with them. This is not a huge issue for me as I don't really play any FP tables, but I hear the latest beta nvidia drivers do work with both. Haven't tried them out myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
root88 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Cool, thanks. That just seems so sloppy. Not the soldering work in the pic, just the setup itself. I guess you can't see it with a cap on top, but I know what is under there! I soldered everything on there, but is seems very shady. Even putting moderate pressure on the wires snaps them off. Soldering them back on a second time is a lot trickier than the first time, they don't seem to want to stick. I went to a lower gauge wire and that helped a bit, but I'm still worried with how delicate the connections are. Am I doing something wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numiah Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Did you pre-solder the wires and the tabs of the LED ? Because you have to. As far as the solder goes, I used 60% tin 40% led soldering wire. A small 16 watt soldering iron is more than enough. ---- Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
root88 Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Did you pre-solder the wires and the tabs of the LED ? Because you have to.As far as the solder goes, I used 60% tin 40% led soldering wire. A small 16 watt soldering iron is more than enough. I did pre-solder the wire. I'm not sure how you pre-solder the tab of the LED, do you just drip a glob of solder on it an let it harden? Seems like it would overlap to another tab too easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85vett Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Yes, I tried it and can confirm that the bg of fp works now. Vp seems to work great as well with the new beta drivers. Im running win7 with two GT460's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 I did pre-solder the wire. I'm not sure how you pre-solder the tab of the LED, do you just drip a glob of solder on it an let it harden? Seems like it would overlap to another tab too easily. I used flux as well. Put a little on the pad on the LED, the some solder, then soldered the wire to it. They're on there pretty solid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Really got to enjoy the pin over the weekend. Had a blast actually getting to play a handful of tables and not just work on the cabinet. Attack From Mars might still be my fav. It's such a great game to begin with and looks so good in VP. I wish they all looked like this. T2 Chrome Edition is another gem. Photo realistic. Just gorgeous! (I think I remember T2 hacked 'adult' roms for the actual pin. Anyone know what I am talking about or am I crazy?) :-) Really enjoyed Roadshow and Star Trek: TNG as well. What are your top tables I should be playing? One thing I am having issues with. Not really issues, but just a general question I guess. The sound varies so much from table to table. How is everyone getting them balanced? I don't want to have to adjust the speakers for every table. T2 is blaring loud. ST: TNG is very quiet. Same with others. A lot of the Stern stuff seems loud to me as well. One other thing. I know how to control the Williams games no prob with the setup buttons. What is the trick for Data East, Stern, and others? The same keys don't do the same thing as the Bally/Williams games. 7- 'Back'. 8 - 'down'. 9- 'up'. 0- 'enter'. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Wasn't all fun and games unfortunately. I did actually do some work too. Finally got the knocker installed. Was wondering why I even bothered getting one, but when it goes off during a game it really does sound awesome. Totally stands out. I did try to mount it horizontally at first until i realized that wouldn'twork. Didn't realize I needed gravity to pull the pin back down. Duh. I mounted it near the front on the right side of the cab. Just under my right slingshot and flipper contactors. I used a small piece of 1" x 1" wood I had left over from my playfield TV supports. Just used a couple screws and pre-drilled the holes so the block didn't split. Works perfectly and sounds good. Here's a quick vid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 think you really need it in the head to get the right sound, sometimes they even have a steel plate they hit against. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Yeh. That's normally where they are. I had people recommend putting them in the cab closer to the front since we are underpowering them. It sounds good so I may just leave it. We'll see if I get bored one day and decide to give it a shot. :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 TAF has it mounted there but you really need it to hit against a steel plate to get the right sound. Sent from my GT-P1010 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85vett Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 For your sounds - I ran into the same issues. Honestly, I just reduced the sounds in each table at the same time I was aligning the DMD to the 3rd monitor. Has been a pain in the butt but has been working so far. Not sure about Stern but data east works about the same way. Haven't tried on on the cab but data east uses (if memory serves me correctly) 3 buttons instead of 4. One is "forward/reverse", one is "step" and the other is actually your start button (on a real cab it's the start button at least). The forward/back is an on off switch. On I believe is forward and off is back but could be reverse. You should be able to create that signal by holding the button down for the on position once it's mapped to a keystroke that mathces the button you wnat to use. For data east you have to have the first button in "forward" to get into the audits and then you press the "step" button to go through the audits. When you find what you want you press the start button to select the change and then step again to confirm. I haven't done this on my cab yet but this is how it works on my Bataman DE real pinball machine. For what it's worth my Batman DE table doesn't adjust the sound through these keys though... It has a dial that you turn just like an old school car radio. With that, I'm not sure if this will work or not. I hope this helps out though. I would try it for you but I can't get my IPAC to work :-( So, if you know how to get that to work maybe we can help each other out. I've got my file created and saved but my buttons still don't register the key strokes I mapped them to unless I'm in the "test mode" of the program. I've gotta be doing something silly but can't figure out my error. Maybe I don't have the files in the right place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill55 Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 I would try it for you but I can't get my IPAC to work :-( So, if you know how to get that to work maybe we can help each other out. I've got my file created and saved but my buttons still don't register the key strokes I mapped them to unless I'm in the "test mode" of the program. I've gotta be doing something silly but can't figure out my error. Maybe I don't have the files in the right place.... Are you telling the software to program the ipac with the config? Once you change the buttons you need to send the config to the ipac. I had a couple errors doing that , but after rebooting it worked fine for me. I am using the spreadsheet version of the software, not the graphical one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvthatapex Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 85vett, for your IPAC problem. Are you using WinIPAC to configure the key assignments? If so, then you just save the keyassignments, give it a filename so you can load it later if you like. Then just hit thie PROGRAM button on the lower right side of the key assignments screen. This sends the key assignments to the IPAC. If you don't do this, your buttons won't be configured. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mameman Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 also you need the std version of the ipac and not the stripped down budget version. if i recall the budget one does not save configs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85vett Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 I'm running this software - http://www.ultimarc.com/winipac_ipd.html I'm also using the spreadsheet view of this and I have clicked the "program" button and even get the success message. I have my version saved too. How do I tell if I have the standard version? I downloaded the file here - http://www.ultimarc.com/download.html and I did as directed and selected the "run as administrator" button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85vett Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 The wierd part is that if I go into the test mode it registers the keys as I have them assignmed. Min I click out of the software and try a button it goes crazy on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thommo Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 I was getting the same thing. Then I remember that in Win 7 you need to run it in Admin (right click, open as admin) otherwise you can play as much as you like but cannot program the Ipac. I still forget every now and then and start getting really pissed off and then I remember:embarassed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 I was getting the same thing. Then I remember that in Win 7 you need to run it in Admin (right click, open as admin) otherwise you can play as much as you like but cannot program the Ipac.I still forget every now and then and start getting really pissed off and then I remember:embarassed: You can save a shortcut with this setting applied so you don’t have to keep remembering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thommo Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Really?!!!! Deffinitly will get this happening. Can you point me in the right direction? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinballlooking Posted May 25, 2012 Share Posted May 25, 2012 Really?!!!! Deffinitly will get this happening. Can you point me in the right direction? Create a shortcut right click on that shortcut and go to properties. Then select the compatibility tab. At the bottom check off the “Run this program as an Administrator” apply the changes you are all set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thommo Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Thanks for that. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85vett Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Got the IPAC running. Long story short is that I created my own file name rather than saving over the default file. I mapped my keys again and installed over the default file name and all is working now. Thank you all for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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