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46" / 30" / 19" widebody cabinet


chriz99

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Alright i am getting my two clear mars lights tommorow.

How are your tests going with the two rgbw leds? if it's going ok i can order then

how are the connectors on the board? soldering work required?

I think 3 cables for the colors and one ground right?

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Alright i am getting my two clear mars lights tommorow.

How are your tests going with the two rgbw leds? if it's going ok i can order then

how are the connectors on the board? soldering work required?

I think 3 cables for the colors and one ground right?

it's better to wait until everything is tested and finally released. otherwise you have the chance to buy unneeded things :D:playingball:

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code is almost finished, we are beta-testing it at the moment. some little bug-fixes and add-on's - then I think it could be released.

manofwar is the creator of this masterpiece, it depends on him when it gets released.

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Hmm i looked at the topper clear lights yesterday and was wondering how to fit the rgbw led in there... i was thinking of some sort of silicone glue or normal tape... i guess it's runs 3 wires to the ledwiz and one to 12v + from a molex from my pc supply

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you can attach the flasher cap with 2 screws on your backbox. I will simply put it over my rbgw-led.

2010-10-22%2017h58_38.png

for the cree rgbw led you need also a good heatsink, heat conductive pads or better heat conductive glue and some really big resistors to drive them with 12v.... and you should shield your eyes from the blank rgbw-led. they are insanely bright: I use them only with the flasher caps.

if you want do drive all 4 colors you need 4 wires and 1 wire current.

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If you look :

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-MC-E-Series/CREE-MC-E-RGBW-on-Star-PCB-LT-1573_120_133.html

This is already mounted on a pcb.

So i don't understand why i need seperate resitors and heat pads etc. i think the resitors are only needed when running them with 12 v instead of 5v right? my idea would be to run the cree leds from a molex 5v from my pc supply instead of the ledwiz 5v output

I made a mistake about the 12v 5v should be enough...

If you give the ok im going to order these.

After looking further at the star pcb it already has heating pads etc build it also i think the soldering will be a lot easier.

4x wires for current

4x wires for colors

I think i can use utp cable inside wires for this righ? their already nice and small.

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If you look :

http://www.led-tech.de/en/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-MC-E-Series/CREE-MC-E-RGBW-on-Star-PCB-LT-1573_120_133.html

This is already mounted on a pcb.

So i don't understand why i need seperate resitors and heat pads etc. i think the resitors are only needed when running them with 12 v instead of 5v right? my idea would be to run the cree leds from a molex 5v from my pc supply instead of the ledwiz 5v output

I made a mistake about the 12v 5v should be enough...

If you give the ok im going to order these

you need to read the basics and specs about leds, powering and wiring... especially when you use high power leds

V typ.: R:2.2/G:3.4/B:3.2/W:3.2 V each die

Successful usage of high power LEDs:

Heat management

Applications with high power LEDs need enduring, adequate and plane heat conduction from the first moment of use. It is very important and neccessary to get the heat off the devices to ensure the maximum light output, lifetime and efficiancy.

Drive management

LEDs should be run with a constant current in addition to the manufacturers recommendations. To ensure this we recommend to take constant current power supplies because resistors are always a risk factor in high power LED applications.

EMC protection

LEDs are sensitive against heat and electric charge. Please avoid any kind of short circuits or electric discharge to the illuminant. The chip can be damaged or even destroyed.

Soldering conditions

Each LED has its own soldering conditions that the user should pay attention to. After the launched lead free processing specifications many standarts have changed. Information about recommended soldering can be found in the manufacturers datasheets or on the manufacturer homepages.

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Yeah but the documentation is crap and i cannot seem to find how to do it the proper way.

I am learning so please bare with me.

The heating should not be an issue because the star pcb has that onboard.

Now for the currents:

Every LED should be powered by a 5v wire

Every LED ground should go to the LED-Wiz on different ports

I am sorry for all these questions it's not really clear to me... so sorry

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njay, you need a heatsink and at least a heatpad (or better heatclue) and you need also resistors for 5v. the star-pcb is only for better soldering.

check out some led-forums/google/wiki for basics and specs.

be patient, when everything is finished I will post my personal wiring diagram, but I can and will not take any responsibility for it (especially with electricity)... So you do everything at your own risk!

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You are right ! i will wait..

Last question do you think the rgb leds from groovygamegear could do the trick also?

Those are made for the led wiz :D

And for noobs like me a lot safer to wire..

Maybe they are not as bright as the ones from cree , but if it will do the trick why not

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You are right ! i will wait..

Last question do you think the rgb leds from groovygamegear could do the trick also?

Those are made for the led wiz :D

And for noobs like me a lot safer to wire..

Maybe they are not as bright as the ones from cree , but if it will do the trick why not

maybe a cree-ledflasher is overpowered for your minicab, but a ggg-led is only for button-illumination. check out some led-shops, maybe this is the right led for you: 12VDC plugnplay SMD LED Module

http://www.led-dealer.de/LED-module-blue-SMD-LEDs-3Chip-four-indoor-outdoor-shed-exterior-areas-kfz-lkw-us-tuning-cars-low-construction-height-IP_2

its about 4x4cm. I think your flashercap will not fit, but you can simply attach the led module with 2 screws on your backbox

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